SkyHi_33
-
Posts
1,271 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by SkyHi_33
-
-
they all got electrical problems and just take a look at the welds on the frame and what not... they do look ok though.
but yeh junkyard items.
-
rims for sale
Nissan 16x7 mesh style rims
5x114,
225/50 nankang tyres front camber worn prolly good for some cheap fun
225/50 goodride tyres rear 90% tread pretty much like new
bit of gutter rash here and there and one rim has substantial amount (pictured)
as they are when i bought the car
$300 o.n.o
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/kfsRule_2/rims002.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/kfsRule_2/rims003.jpg
Auscar set 15x6? i think they are
4x100
tyres pretty worn
one rim has a slight buckle (came like that with the car)
$220 o.n.o
-
Do you trust every person you speak to over the phone?
If you're after the biggest balls bike, then learn on a 250cc then get a 1000cc when you're allowed to. ... and lots of protective apparel
I spent 12 years on 250s. They're fun and very good on fuel. Out at Mallala, I'm faster on a 250 than most 'street' riders are on 1000cc sportsbikes. Plus it was holding the bigger bikes off at Phillip Island. Its how you ride, not what you ride. 250s are bloody fast thru turns when you know how.
no i dont trust everyone on the phone but thought i might share anyways lol...
and very true, 250's can be thrown in to corners much more than big bikes... more fun to ride too, but comfort wise and acceleration 250's are nothing special.
personal opinion again as I've only ridden a 600rr to compare.
-
The biggest sports bike that's got balls that R-date licensed riders can ride is a RVF400, its a shittier version of a VFR400 which is not on the list however, its not on the list of bikes R-date riders CANT ride either... I've rang and asked about it and the lady told me that it should be fine as its not on the list of bikes I'm not allowed to ride.
-
btw, frigging awesome bikes guys!!! lots of eye candy, keep em coming...
-
And for God's sake, get some decent protective clothing if you're going to be riding. I'm seeing endless twats this summer in nothing but t-shirts and shorts
listen to this man... always wear protection (works in many situations) as riding is very unpredictable in traffic...
last night was the first night I ever rode without my leathers as the jacket was out for cleaning and I had to take the bike back home from mates house after getting it running again. All I had on was a t-shirt, after last night... yes you wont sweat like a pig when waiting at the lights and the breeze feels quite nice but the whole way back i had an image of coming off for whatever reason... even at 20-30km/h you can say sweet goodbyes to your skin. Plus full black leathers with protectors look way tougher then a twig in a singlet, shorts and flip flops "thinking" he's tough.
If I had an option to choose my first bike again I would probably go for a road/trail bike or a motard, especially if you're tall (unless you like leg cramps and back pains??). Yes they might seem like dorky bikes at first but are very maneuverable and friendly to use for a begginer. In saying that however, the sportsbikes are pretty awesome too, nothing like getting down around a corner with the inline 4 screaming its tits off (but not really going anywhere lol).
Thats just from my personal experience though... never ridden a cruiser so cant really say what they're like but there is lots of nice ones out there.
-
*waits for pete and ruby*
running shoes much?
-
Was kinda bored and since i saw a fair few people here have mentioned riding motorbikes and what not, I thought I'd start a thread and see what sort of bikes people ride seeing as its summer and the weather has been awesome for riding...
licence:
years riding:
bike:
other:
PIC!!!
To get the ball rolling here is mine,
licence: L's
years riding: 1yr 2mnths (i should really go for p's huh?)
bike: honda cbr250r
other: lots of custom stuff...
You either love it or hate it, I'm in the middle as i only did the camo so it'll appeal to a younger person when I sell it, and it is something different I guess... next bike is definitely gonna be a combination of black and matte black all round.
Now lets see what you like between your knees?
-
Full set of R33 GTR Vspec-2 shocks and springs.
Bought these as seller assured me they'd fit on my gts-t but was not the case.
Very good condition, no leaks, cracks, not bent etc..
Have no use for these, I paid $350 all up...
willing to let them go for $300ono, make me an offer.
PIC: http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/kfsRule_2/DSCF0203.jpg
+ free gtr strut brace
$200 o.n.o
still in good condition, great for getting off defect for your 33 GTR...
-
yeh dude nothing sleeper about that car at all.
maybe if you got rid of the kit, painted the rims black and returned interior to stock looking than you would have something.
-
Okay guys. I just read through 18 pages of this.
Is it really as bad as it seems? I'm a P plater currently and will be driving a 33 soon...
Engine Mods
*TO3-4 turbo > stock
*G-ready plenum > stock
*Injectors
*Headers > stock
*GTR intercooler piping must be neat and hole cut must be neat and sealed off with primer/paint/sealer to prevent rust etc..
*GTR fuel pump
*Oil cooler depending on how it was done and if it has braided lines they must be ADR approved
*Double plated clutch
*Up graded brakes all rotors/pads are fine, depending if the calipers have been upgraded?
*3 1/2 inch exhaust system Must be under 90db last time i checked so could be wrong (replace muffler)
Interior
*Recaro bucket seat must recline and be ADR approved
*Grey dash
*Turbo timer > stock
*Boost gauge depending where it is
*Pioneer sound system
Exterior
*400R full body kit
*17 inch white rims depends on width, tyres must be on or over legal parameters (yes they sometimes check load ratings on tyres)
*Tinted windows fronts max 75%, rear 30%, most likely gonna have to remove
*No dents and good paint
That's the specs there for the car.
I have to drive down Grand junction road to Old port road 5 days a week.
Am I gonna get defected on my first day? YES, haha jk depends if you're in the wrong place at the right time
Also. Exactly how much does an engineers certificate cost? Would it be expensive for the list of modifications there? to engineer oversized rims (more than 2" up, 1" wider than stock) is around 3.5k so im told.. good luck with the rest unless you are sleeping with an engineer
Currently drive an MZ20 but it's a dead sleeper, cops pull me over and don't even know it's a turbo. nice cars
To get the said car up there through regency, exactly what would I have to take off it?
Awaiting your opinions...
Cheers,
Aleks
basically, clean the car up, don't drive like a wanker, have a good attitude and you might just make it through but if you do get defected be prepared to return lots of things to stock, fix leaks if any, fix bushes if any are worn etc etc...
things like injectors, fuel pump, clutch etc.. they usually overlook if the engine appears overly stock so shouldn't have too much trouble there
i may not be 100% correct about all the above but it gives you a pretty good idea
good luck with it!
-
not meaning to add to controversy but tonight driving around with mates we spotted in total:
7 cars pulled over
4 were r33
1 was r32
1 was aristo
1 was 91 rolla with p plate chicks (they were decent..... 'sok im young
)fair? think not
sucks to be us
edit: to be fair they were in and around city/hindley st. area mostly so pretty much asking for it but still
-
Mates dad brought in a Subaru SVX on a truck from Gold Coast to Adelaide. It cost him $700 with insurance, not bad huh?
-
Damn guys, great stuff in this thread, I would contribute but pretty much everything I'd say was covered so no point going over it again. Only point I'd like to make though, is if all goes ok after this meeting is that we should try and get an MP or two on board as soon as possible and make a push for modplates. Talking about it with the SAPOL and possibly getting them on to it wont be a bad idea either... speeds up the process.
Best of luck with the meeting coming up and hope something good comes from it.
-
yeah id be interested in a s1.5 or type m bar if you have any.
-
i was referring to mechanical mods in the above post
seen plenty of engine bay pics from members in various threads... always chrome bits n pieces with colour coded silicone joiners and painted stuff... what do you expect when a cop lifts the bonnet
only seen a couple stealth bays... that is not to say a lot more people aren't doing it tho.
-
or modify your cars in a manner that is
a) legal
b) engineered
c) stealth n neat
bling and ghetto will always draw a shitload more attention than a clean standard looking car.
-
haha 2 late i already sold them, i was thinking of boltong my drivers seat to my floor boards aswell...;lol
does that mean the door trims are gone too?
-
ok nvm, its running proper psi... just found a converter from torr to psi (why the f**k would nissan measure atmospheric pressure in torr is beyond me) and going by what it is atm, its at 7psi which is factory setting right?
so any ideas why it doesn't wanna boost higher with the bleed valve/boost controller?
and ive also realized its been at 11-12 this whole time
only got a 3.5" cat back + pod... fk me, time for cooler and 3" front pipe -
Double checked it today in the sun, the tension pulley still looked like it wasn't moving but when I put my finger on it (yeh dumb idea) it was spinning so thats all good.
The aircon on the other hand isn't. There is a slight noise coming from that area too + aircon never worked since I got the car so that's most likely the reason why...
Also holy shit the brakes feel sooooooooo damn good now. I thought originally brakes were pretty average but looking at what came out of the system... no wander haha.
Only one problem left, the boost is back however not as high as it used to be... either way i run it (solenoid or bleed valve) it doesn't wanna go over half of the factory boost gauge when on boost. It used to shoot up to 3/4. I haven't had the time to hook up my boost gauge to it but am certain its lacking some psi.
Ive ripped the turbo cover off and had a look but nothing is out of order, checked all vac lines that I could see and haven't found any air leaks although they can be in tricky places so not ruling that out just yet. Any other ideas?
-
hmm from looking at it today, both of them didn't appear to be turning.
ill get my mech to take a look at it tomorrow when i get him to press the new castor rod bearings in.
haha all the fun that comes with a cheap skyline.
-
and update:
brake fluid bled and replaced with "super performance" dot4, its blueish stuff from valvoline. took the car for a short spin and it seems that the brakes are fixed, i hope for good.
this is what was left of the old stuff that was bled out, nasty:
in regards to the pulleys I asked about before, here is a pic:
the two pulleys puctured are not spinning at all when the engine is running, this doesnt seem the least bit right... i know the aircon is stuffed but is the middle pulley meant to be spinning?
the oil leak present is from the power steering pump leak that the car had a while ago, i never got around to cleaning it off after it was fixed.
-
back in to the engine.
-
can you turn the turbo timer off?
if you can, turn it off and leave the key in there without the remote... obviously leave your alarm off during the inspection and it shouldn't be a problem.
they cant pick on remote start if they don't know it has one...
I'm seeing endless twats this summer in nothing but t-shirts and shorts 
)
Replacing The Radiator Fan With Electric Fans. Performance Benifit?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
anyone tried using ef-el falcon thermo fans? you can pick them up for about $200 brand new with the shoud and all.. only problem is getting them fitted up but that should not be a huge problem... they cool the ol 4L very well, and are pretty slim so should fit in nicely too.
Im considering doing this sometime over the weekend... will let you know how it goes.