jonathon
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Posts posted by jonathon
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Hi - to also add to an old thread.
I've been having the same issues and unable to complete the air idle volume learning to happen and drop my revs. I read heaps of stuff from G37, 350Z, and even pathfinders, that there is a common issue with unplugging the throttle bodies and not able to complete the relearn (especially with the VQ35HR engine)
I saw a post on 350z forum and gave it a try - I unplugged both throttle bodies and left them a few moments, before plugging back in. It worked! - it must have put the ECU out of its funk and allowed the learning procedure to work!
Now lets hope it stays that way!
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Hey all - FYI if anyone is following the post.
The problem was corruption in the data loaded on nistune.
The tuner hadn't seen anything like it - at least it's finally sorted!
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Maybe look for a boost leak as someone suggested, however when it happened to me it felt like hitting the rev limiter (not really a bunny hop)
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Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.
So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!
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Hey all, after talking to the tuner the inductive timing lights get sort of a double signal and end up showing an incorrect reading.
So if you have one of these lights you open up the wire sensor slightly to weaken the signal - and hey presto timing is shown correctly!
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If it won't start hot, try giving it some, even lots of, throttle.
Poor hot start suggests a faulty ECU temp sender - try starting with temp sensor disconnected. Or poor setting up of cold start temperature compensation.
Other possible causes:
Fuel pressure - try clamping fuel return, or disconnect vacuum from FPR.
Slow cranking speed - battery, or starter iffy.
I've tried clamping the fuel return and vacuum with no luck
I think you might be right with the hot start issue as it has started after leaving it for a few hours, but once warm I can't get it going again, even without the temp sensor disconnected.
Ecu diagnostics isn't showing a faulty sensor either.
So I'm guessing an incorrect start set up in the tune?
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kinks - I've been using an inductive timing light, off the loop wire and also tried on the coil pack wire, with no difference. I guess inline might be the way to go as maybe it's showing a false light therefore indicating that timing is way off?????
The strange part about the markings is I have (w=white, o=orange)
w w w w o w w
Not the supposedly standard o w w w w w w
Hardest part is trying to figure out how to get it started again to even start looking at the timing!
Spark is good, fuel is in the rail, injectors are ticking/firing but still no start!
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Didn't you notice when you put the cam cover back on?
Unfortunately I didn't put the cover on, I gave it to the tuner to put back on once they finished adjusting the cams (basically I installed the cams, then left the cover off to drive to the tuner to get them adjusted on a dyno). I would have thought they would have noticed and repaired/told me about it if it was damaged!
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Without the half-moon key on the ex cam, there is only one position where the engine will start and run. Then you need to adjust the timing with a timing light.
I managed to get the car running again, briefly.
I gave up last night as it wasn't starting despite the position of the cas sensor. Even at the correct position lining up the broken key.
This morning I started it straight away without an issue, then checked the timing, and it was idling well. So I thought I'd test it.... Turned the car off, and now it won't start again!!!!!
Rechecked spark to all plugs, all good
Injectors still ticking away
I can smell fuel and can feel fuel pumping in the hose leading to the fuel rail upon cranking
Bloody won't start!
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I'll have to give it a shot - it was running well this morning and I managed to adjust the timing so the mark was near the orange marking - which by counting the markings from left to right - I think is 20degrees - so it should be ok.
Turned the car off and tried to restart with no luck, and I cannot get it started again!
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I've now replaced the cas - as it was scored on the inside.
I have got the car briefly running with it all together - and I think it is clearing fine as no marks are on the new cas so the gasket with washes included must be fine.
On reflection, ages ago I had the car running without the cam cover for a short drive, and didn't hear / see it rubbing, but I guess it must have been - a lot of damage with only 10mins of running!
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Hmm - I've replaced the plugs and cas and still no luck! Gosh cars can be frustrating!
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It's cranking strong, I discovered the cas being damaged by the cam bolts and have replaced the cas.
Unfortunately the half moon locator on the cam is broken so I have been trying to start it by rotating the cas tooth by tooth until it runs with no luck.
I did get it to run however the timing was way out so I tried to adjust the cas by a tooth either way, but now I can't get it started at all again!
Any suggestions?
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Hey guys I've had some issues starting the car and after replacing the cas I checked the timing and the car runs the best when the timing mark is way past the marks to the right.
The orange 0degree mark is also in between the white marks. I thought it was supposed to be at the end?
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that's a washer, you can see the outline of it clearly
Ah I can see what you mean now I'm at the car - there is a small washer inbuilt into the gasket on the cam cover - if this is all that's needed I'm confused how the cas was touching the cam bolts....
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R32-25t - I think that mark is where a washer used to be as the gasket is pretty hammered!
double check that the input shaft for the cas hasn't snapped off
Yeah the input shaft locator is broken off in the cas - so I'm trying to line up the new cas into the shaft, but it's bloody hard!double check that the input shaft for the cas hasn't snapped off
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Wow.
And looking at it it appears to be set to zero. Bit hard to see in the photo though.
I think it has a small adjustment.
I've put it all together and it still won't start - the injectors ticked when the cas was spun, and there's spark in the plugs - so fuel problem?? Or would the replacement cas put the timing too far out to start it????
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The washers are in there you can see them in the seconds photo
Definitely no washers between the cas and the cam cover - the cam bolts have the square washer as in the pic
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Well when I got it back from the tuner it had new bolts on the cas - so I'm thinking they replaced the original and didn't put washers back on!
I think I will be having words with them....
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Hey I've been having random starting issues and after it finally showed a diagnosis code I removed the cas - and I found the the exhaust cam bolts have rubbed against the cas! Am I missing a gasket or something to give it more room?
I would have hoped the mechanic would have noticed when they were adjusted!
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So hot starts are the issue? Have you spoken to the tuner? Even the best tunes can have unforeseen issues, they are tuning a complete map in a few hours, there are bound to be problems.
Not just hot starts - can happen cold too - it's weird as it can be running fine, then stop at the servo, and it won't run...
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Hi Scotty nm35,
They are 550cc Bosch injectors running 98ron fuel.
I wouldn't think the cold start tune is out as the tuner is well experienced and it happens after driving it (ie 20min drive, park car in driveway for 5mins, then won't start again)
I'll take your advice and check those suggestions - hard part would be finding a cas 2nd hand and knowing its good!
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Hey all,
I've got an intermittent starting issue which is driving me crazy.
I had the car tuned post injector, adjustable cam, and boost upgrade, and since I've had random starting problems.
Initially I thought it was due to the resistor with the injectors now being high impedance (was told they were low when In fact they were high impedance!) - the resistor is now removed, and the car was retuned.
Randomly the car still fails to start after a few days and multiple starts without issue. It cranks over but won't start/run.
I've checked spark - and spark is fine
Fuel is in the rail - so pump is working
Re-soldered the earth to the power transistor as it snapped easily - wondering if it was a bad earth
I think the injectors are working as they sound like they are ticking and I think I can feel them tick, however when unplugging the crank/cam angle sensor and plugging it in sometimes allows the car to start.
Any suggestions? Is the cas stuffed or something else?
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Awesome - thanks for the help guys.
Such a pain in the backside - as it only just came back from the tuner!
So are the injectors slower to open? I'd hate to be driving it running too lean...
Nissan v36 / 370z front sway bar - Adelaide
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
Just checking to see if you still have the swaybar laying around (I know it ws posted a while ago!)