SilR44

Hey guys, I've done some searching but couldn't find anything that gives detailes instructions to bleeding brakes. My master cylinder recently went bye-bye and I think its cos of the way I bled the brakes when I changed the pads. When bleeding the brakes, are you supposed to hold the pedal flat to the floor then release etc? I remember reading a thread in here stating that if you hold the pedal flat to the floor you'll blow an O-ring in the master cylinder , which is exactly whats happened...... Can anyone give me some advice with this? Cheers Matt

A friend of mine did the install, I was there just helping out. We didn't have the rotors machined though. The pads did not require bedding in, according to the instructions. All pads are still there, none have fallen out. cheers

Hi, I've got an R33 4door completely stock standard. I recently had the front brake pads replaced with Bendix and everything worked fine for about a week. After that the brakes were different from drive to drive ie. sometimes they'd require the lightest tap and they'd pull up, other times the brakes wouldn't work until you get to about 1/2 way down the pedal. The missus reckons at some point she went flying through a stop sign because she couldn't stop !! At the moment, they've stopped changing from hour to hour and are left feeling really weak, like you have to get the pedal 3/4 of the way down until they start to work, then they pull up fairly well. As far as I can see, there are no leaks, and the rotors and calipers are fine + before the new pads were put in everything was working honky dory. Any suggestions guys? The other thing is, the r33 pads wouldn't fit my calipers, they were completely different, I found out that I have r32 calipers. Is this unusual for a '94 R33? Cheers Matt