Sinturion

Another possibility that i thought of is that by using the Z32 AFM you have leaned out your mixture too much causing the engine to knock which may cause the ecu to go into safe mode (and give you knock sensor error). If you still have the original afm, try putting that in and reseting the ecu. From what I understand you can't just pop a Z32 AFM in without having a fuel controller (safc and such) or a full aftermarket ecu and having it tuned.

Also.. if you are running a Z32 afm you probably need something to adjust your A/f ratios to compensate for the size difference. A SAFC would be good for this, but you will need to get it dyno tuned ($$$)

The knock sensor error means your knock sensor is broken or unplugged... it usually also means that the ecu will be running in safe mode - eg, extra rich a/f ratio and retarded timing.

If your car is running ultra rich then you are better off fixing whatever is causing problem rather than trying to use the SAFC as a bandaid fix. Black smoke is usually a sign of running rich - white smoke is usually a sign of condensation or a blown head gasket (hopefully the first one for your sake). Getting a tuned SAFC will give you a few kws but probably less than 10 and closer to 5. As for an rb20de vs an rb20det, I'd say the rb20de would have a chance IF the rb20de had several mods (filter, exhaust, extractors, punched cat, air ram etc), a good tune and a fair amount weight reduction. (vs stock rb20det that is)

From what I understand its just a resistor - however when unplugging it you also break a circuit that controls a solenoid which sets the pressure in the auto boxes. By disconnecting the solenoid the autobox stays at full pressure the whole time. (or something like that)

Ok, after a bit of reading i found out how to do it, and you dont even need to cut the wire. Just unplug the little silver/grey box labeled 'JECS' near the fuse box (on the r32, not sure where it is on the r33). Partial throttle changes were alot more chunky.. didn't notice a heck of alot on WOT, but i need to do a bit more testing in non-50k areas.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=285482 Maximas apparently have a similar thing. Its not quite the same, but some similar techniques could be used - such has having a micro switch setup so that you only get the hard gear changes when you have a WOT (wide open throttle).

Anyone with an r32 got this going yet?

Yep I found the same also. Removed the pod because it was too much of a hassle getting a proper air partition setup. Quite bizzare as you would think that you'd get gains throughout the entire rev range when fitting a pod filter.

http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...light=ecu+codes Theres some info if you sift through that thread. I found I could more accurately monitor my O2 sensor using my new consult cable (gives voltages) but this should still give you an indication if your o2 sensor is porked.

Make sure you do an O2 sensor diagnostic on your ECU first. I originally thought that my O2 sensor was a dud (poor economy), but after testing it i found it to be fine.