Damo

if it is only happening on 1 or 2 load points are u saying this is not much of a concern? How many degrees of timing would u expect to take out of these 1 or 2 cells to bring it back to safe levels?

I think u might be looking at max values here. there is no way the base tune is 44deg at 4500rpm. Its usually this at idle under no load. Why are u driving it that hard on the base map anyway? Do u not like your engine?

I have the same problem with my gtstr33. it spikes upwards of 120 with the aircon on, and up around 50-60 with aircon off. It happens at around 4500-5000 rpm. I have my map locked so i cant take out any timing to do some fault finding. This is quite annoying seeing the engine check light flash rapidly at me. I hate the thought of slowly killing my engine. I had mine tuned at one of the best tuners in sydney and it was not detonating on the dyno. I even took it back for them to play with and they did take some timing out. I am wondering if its possible for the car to be using different load points under wot on the dyno to wot on the road. In this case that part of the map may not be tuned???? Does any one else notice a rise in knock if the aircon is on???

What type of EMS do you have?

needs to be done on the dyno unfortunately, they connect a sensor to the exhaust to take the readings. I am not 100% sure but i would imagine they would lean it out by removing fuel from the map cells. U could do this yourself with the hand controller but not recommended as u will have no idea when it becomes too lean. Where did u get it tuned?

AFR's seem a little rich, could probably pick up a bit more power. Mine varies from 11.5 to 12 and is still a safe tune.

hybrid kit for around 800 or a copy for 600-650, check out www.flyn.com.au

Ummm, see previous post of pdf file. It shows exactly where to cut the hole.

http://www.hybrid-power.com/installation_/GTS/GTS kit.pdf Try this link for generic intercooler installation.

I have taken my car back for the knock spike and it has all been cleaned up on the map. Cant get it over 20 now. Much safer. Just wondering about the ign correction setting. Is it safe to increase or decrease this value to get more power. If you adjust this should something else be adjusted?

All these bikes are good for reliability, they would not be the most elite production bikes in the world otherwise. In the end its your decision. Test ride them all and choose what you like. Remember its not just about times down the 1/4, and you will never ride these bikes to their full potential around a track. If u are going to be riding several times a week and anything over 1 hr at a time you will want something that u sit comfortably on. plus if are going to throw someone on the back think about their ride too. I had a blade and have riden the GSXR, R1 and the ninja. I definately prefered the Honda. Even my mates that had the other bikes believed the blade was a better all round package.

Same as in Qatar which sticks out off saudi arabia into the persian gulf. An excellent oppurtunity for investment. There is so much development going on in this place and prices will really boom for many years to come. They have one of the best supplys of oil in the middle east wich is yet to be tapped into, so u can understand why.

Yep your right, got it mixed up. Sorry, had 1 too many beers last night.

UAE is vey westernised these days and I think the locals are not as traditional as certain other Mid east countries where you may be beaten with a stick for wearing what she had on. These Shieks dont f**k around, they know what they want and they get what they want. They are just like us with a lot more money. The most beautiful (and most expensive) women in the world go to the UAE to entertain the locals just for the money. I am sure every one of the men in these pictures would have their own super model. I spent 4 months this year in a neighbouring country which was a little more strict and westerners were not as welcome but you can tell that America is rubbing off on all these countries. We could still go to starbucks and Maccas, there is massive amounts of US dollars going into these countries at the moment. Over the counter they actually accept US dollars as easily as they accept their own currency. Just a little bit ironic i think.

pros. Nitrogen does not contain moisture and is much more tolerant of change in temp. eg less expansion or retraction therefore keeps a more stable pressure in hotter or colder conditions. Hence they use it in aircraft tyres. cons. its heaver than air, its expensive. What happens if you break down or if u have a puncture? Common sense tells me to either call for help or change the tyre. At 9 bucks a tyre i would not waist your money. if u go to the track simply drop the pressure in your tyres. when they warm up they will increase pressure.

I very much doubt your air filter will be causing rough idle almost to stall point. Unless its been dropped in mud. Simply take it out and start the car. If it idles smooth then clean it or get a new one. Or just clean it first and see if it makes a difference.

What do u mean standard boost controller? If you mean the boost solenoid then no, you take it out of the system. If you mean wastegate then yes. The boost controller will be placed between the intake pipe and the wastgate and simply bleeds off pressure therefore tricking the wastegate into seeing a lower pressure and hence allowing the boost to rise.

No, i am not sure how to do this. I can do the map trace and i can graph the knock as the above pictures but how can i tell when and where it is on the load point?

Does anyone know how to unlock the map yourself or does it have to be done by a laptop which the tuners have. I just got back from a drive and noticed that with the a/c on it makes the knock spike even worse. dont even need to be 1/4 throttle. Very strange that its happening at the same rpm every time.

will give the map trace a go today. I think the knock spike is happening well after full boost is achieved, somewhere around 4000rpm.

Tell me if i am understanding this correctly. If i have dropped the boost from 13 to 10 psi and a lower load point was choosen then that lower load point should have a higher ign timing value therefore making the most of the tune? But if a lower load point is not choosen then you should be able to dial in a bit more ign timing? Now how do i check and adjust all this if my maps have been locked? I know its probably not recommended to play with it but i guess its the best way to understand how the whole thing works. Even though i have dropped back the boost I am still getting a knock spike, its just at a safer level now. But the spike is occuring at the same rpm every time no matter what the boost setting is. Which leads me to think that there is a slight problem with the map. No discredit to the tuners as I know for sure that when it was on the dyno, knock never went over 30. Its just behaving differently on the road. What should be monitored and adjusted to decrease the knock at that rpm? Here are some picks of the knock vs rpm on the chart, The 1st pic is of the lower boost setting the other 2 are the higher boost setting

I am lead to believe the injectors are still good a little bit over 200rwkw but fuel pump upgrade will be needed if i want any more power, (just to be safe) with maybe a high pressure reg just to squeeze a little bit more out of the injectors. My current setup runs fine, see AFRs above post

What does WOT stand for? How can i tell if the whole map is done? The ign map has been locked out so only zeros are shown. Is there any other way to tell if it has been adjusted from stock? The AFR's are in: (cant post photo atm as girlfriend has borrowed the camera) all in 4th gear @80kph 12.5 100kph 12 120kph 12 140kph 11.7 160kph 11.9 180kph 11.6 Do these seem safe?

Is this just the stock turbo simply running out of puff? Does anyone else have a similar drop in pressure at high rpm with stock turbo? The car was on the dyno from 5pm till just after 9, so 4 hours. I was there for about 4 runs on the dyno from about 7.30.

I figured this is how it would work SK. Cheers for the clarification. I am getting the AFR chart today, will post up then.