mjscar

UPDATE: EVERYTHING IS BACK TO NORMAL I checked the polarity as you guys suggested and I found that my right rear speaker was wired wrongly. Fixed that up and it definately did help a bit but it still didn't have that "punch" I was looking for. So with nothing to lose, I just went and made a custom (much tighter) mount for the speaker. Voila! It fixed everything! Obviously it is not as tight as I want it to be since it was a quick backyard job with less than capable tools but still. Damn happy to have the "punch" back in my car. Thank you so much for the quick inputs!! A big prop to rocketboy for reminding me of my forgotten physics lol but other than that, thanks guys! Much appreciated! Now the fun of putting everything together (hopefully for the last time for a while) Cheers!

Yeh I'll definately do the polarity check before testing if the mount is tight enough. Thanks!

Ok, what rocketboy said just got me thinking of something. I think I screwed up my installation (not wiring). You said that the speaker and the mount must be very tight. Well my speakers are too small for the hole and so there is a small hole not covered by the speaker. Could this be the reason why? Simply because its losing pressure due to the hole? Does not having a tight installation affect it a lot or just a little bit? Actually, thinking about it now, I think that is the problem because my speakers are just losing a lot of "punch" and the hole could be the reason. I'll try this out and hopefully, I'll have a great sounding speakers by tomorrow! Thanks guys! I feel pretty stupid for not thinking about that. Thank you so much for the input! Much appreciated!

Sorry if I wasn't very clear but I meant my stock FRONT speakers are overpowering my new REAR speakers. FRONT: Stock speakers REAR: New 6" Pioneer 3way speakers Like the front stockies are making more noise than the rears. If I want to hear any sort of low-range sound from the rears, I have to turn the bass completely up on my head unit and my front stockies by this stage is rocking my doors off. Previously, the majority of my sound was coming out of the rears. Now the majority is coming from the front stockies and its really annoying because my doors are rattling like crazy if I want to have any decent bass in my car now. I'm just wondering if its supposed to be like this, or have I got a faulty speaker, or maybe I wired it up wrong? NOTE: original speaker were the original stock ones I think. Sanyo brand is I remembered correctly. Made of cardboard but sounded surprisingly good lol.

Hey guys, First off, I just want to let you guys know that I have absolutely no idea about audio in general. I couldn't tell you whether one speaker was better than another so thus, I have a little quick question. A few days ago, my stock speaker blew so I went out and bought a new Pioneer 6" 3way speaker to replace them. Now I've installed them smoothly and everything (I think), but now my stock front speakers are way overpowering my new Pioneers. It sounds as if theres not enough bass coming out of the Pioneers but a lot of mid- and high-range stuff coming from them. Is this supposed to happen? Are these speakers sacrificing the "boom" for quality sound? Or have I done something completely wrong? Its not a real concern and I'm just wondering because I would have thought that there were going to be as much (if not more) bass coming out of them than the stock ones. The stock ones used to make pretty good low-range stuff pretty well especially after I got my new head unit. Anyways, thanks for the reply and whatnot. Oh and fyi, I've also got a Pioneer Premier head unit aswell. Thanks!

Hey guys, I've been following this thread for over 6 months now and I've finally got enough information and dough to finally jump in and do it. I still have to order the parts, but I've got a question before I start shopping Anyways, my question is in regards to the oil feed and oil return line. I read through the thread, and unarmed skyline mentioned about using an oil cooler to get the oil feed and oil return line. So that got me thinking, can I simply use an oil sandwich plate without a thermostat to get the oil feed and oil return line? If so, this would save me a lot of hassle in trying to find a way to drill a hole into the block. My second question is, if this is feasible, do you guys know where I can get an oil sandwich plate without a thermostat? I've found a lot with a thermostat, but I can't find one without. Anybody know of any? Anyways, cheers for the feedback.

Hey guys, For some reason, my engine is starting funny now. About a year ago my friend pointed out to me that it took my engine quite a few cranks before it started. I didn't really take much of it because I thought well my engine started each and every time so it must just be the way its supposed to be. Then around 3 months ago, I started my engine on a cold morning to find it half dying, half starting. It started but the revs just jumped all over the place. It would go to 900 back down to very close to 0 and go back up and just stay like this for about 4 seconds until I blipped the throttle and my engine roared back to life and idled normally. I thought shit something must be wrong but for about the next month, it never did it again and so left it be. However now, it seems to be happening more frequently. Every few weeks or so, this would happen and I would have to blip the throttle to get the engine stabilised and idle normally. There was even one time when it sounded as if the engine just didn't want to start. So I thought ok, maybe I really need to get this fixed before it just doesn't want to start anymore. Does any of you have any suggestion as to what it might be? I would do a search but the search feature is not working at the moment. I initially guessed either maybe coilpack or a dying fuel pump? but this is purely a guess. Anyways, thanks for all your feedback. mjscar

Yeh I had these problems before when I just bought my car. Scared the sh*t out of me because I thought I bought a dud car. Plus it was my first time taking the car out by myself, so when I asked my mates, they thought that I just didn't press the clutch, which obviously I did. Anyways, it turned out to be the AAC valve. Takes a few hours and straight away the car was running smoother at idle and never stalled again. On a side note, the link for the AAC valve cleaning should be stickied or something because a lot of people seem to have this issue and not know how to fix it. Anyways, enjoy. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...mp;hl=aac+valve

Thanks for that. This is basically what I wanted to find out, what the limiting factor was for people going only a certain amount of boost. How far do I want to go? Well to be honest, as far as I can go with what I currently have in hand. That's basically why I've been asking about the limiting factor of people only doing a certain amount of boost because if I there is a certain "fixable" factor that can be fixed, then I will fix it if I have the money to do so. Obviously the limiting factor isn't really "fixable" so now I can have a more realistic expectation of what can be achieved from the engine and therefore will spend an amount of money that I believe is "worth" the results. Also I agree that the RB25DET would be the better, sensible path to take. But to be honest, I want to see how I can better what I have rather than just chuck it away and start from fresh. Its probably a stupid trait I have, and I'll concede it has got me into some stuff that wasn't worth the effort, but I'm going to stick to it and see where it will lead me. Realisticlly speaking, I will probably (more like most definately) have one hell of a long time trying to bolt the turbo on and getting it to work. However, it will also be one of the best times when things finally go on right, and also, what better way is there to gain experience than to just dive in and do it. My car will probably be off the road for a while, but hopefully with the help of my mechanic friends, I can get it to work. What I meant was a stock RB engine with upgraded bolt-on parts (turbo, injectors, ecu, etc etc) running 17~18psi. Also I understand what you are saying about the internals. I guess what I fail to realise is that the engine was not built perfectly and so there will always be a weak point in the engine (even if its a minor one) that will lead to the failure of the whole engine. Let me just say, Eug, thank you for taking to the time to reply to all my posts. I know that sometimes, my head churns out questions that are pretty much "overthought", and it is hard for me to transfer what I am thinking to what I am writing. But anyways, thanks for being patience with me dude. Really, trully appreciate it.

Ok I think we have misunderstood each other. I know how to calculate the compression ratio and I know that it has nothing to do with bolt on stuff such fuel pumps and injectors and etc etc. I know that none of these stuff will affect the compression rate whatsoever. However, what I am getting at is, are people who are running 7~8psi doing so because they can't get enough fuel and etc etc so that they have to run lower psi, or is is this amount of boost (with the high compression rate) the max you can run simply because the engine is at its maximum strength? Basically, I'm not asking whether bolt-on stuff will change the compression rate. I'm asking whether bolt-on stuff will give us the ability to push the enginer further, closer to its maximum strength, or not. OR is it already at it's maximum at this amount of boost. Look I'm not trying to chase some magical number here. I just want to know whether it is worth it to spend $5000+ on it, or just do what everyone did and get 2nd hand parts for $3000 and get the same amount of power. Because if I'm getting the same amount of power, I will gladly spend the extra money on other things. And to be honest, this is my first time I'm going to do something as big as this so forgive me if I have silly questions. I have been researching this for over a year because I had to save up the money in the first place. However, no matter how much you research, there are questions that are not answered in magazines, in forums, on the net (mostly because they talk about the rb25det). Questions that can only be answered by experience, which obviously I do not have. So sorry for my "noobness" but please don't accuse me of not knowing anything about engines. I would not be doing something like this if I had no idea on something as basic as "What affects compression rate". Thank you, -mjscar Oh btw, when I said 17-18psi, I meant on a turbo engine with stock internals. I was just wondering that if they can push a turbo engine this far, how far can we push an N/A turboed engine with the same amount of (ONLY) bolt-on parts. That's all

Yeh I've read the whole "how to turbo your N/A" thread, but it never mentioned the strength of the bottom end so I was just wondering whether there was any difference or not. While on topic, generally speaking, is there a way to determine how much boost you can have at a certain amount of compression rate? Like most of the guys on that thread are using stock turbo and so are sticking to ~7-8 psi. But I was wondering, most guys with the 25t just change turbo and a few supporting parts (injectors, fuel pumps etc etc) and just up the boost to 17-18psi on stock internals. Since both 25 have the same strength, if I use all the same bolt-on parts as the guy on the 25t, does that mean my N/A engine can now withstand 10-12psi on the stock internals instead of the usual 7-8psi? Or is everyone running 7-8psi because if we boost it up any higher, irregardless of whether we upgrade the supporting parts or not, will just blow up the engine? Because at the moment, I'm not sure whether to turbo it with better parts and hopefully get a lot more power, or just use 2nd hand gtst parts to turbo my car. Hope all that makes sense :S. But anyways, Thanks a lot for your help! p.s. Hahaha gotta love the ingenious Clarkson

Hey guys, I don't really know where to post this but anyways, I was just wondering if you guys could shed some light on the difference, other than the compression rate (and if any other), between the 25t and 25 N/A bottom end. I've been trying to look around for this information on the net and site, but I can't seem to find any. Anyways yeh just wanted to know this info because I want to turbo my 25 N/A next month so I just want to see whether the 25 N/A bottom end is any weaker than the 25t bottom end. Thanks guys, mjscar

Anybody please? Really urgent.

Hey guys, My friend just bought a second hand JIC coilovers and they just arrived. They look great and in good condition as the seller mentioned, however, the knob to adjust the dampers on the front right coilover is broken. The shaft seemed to have snapped. Now the seller never mentioned this to us, so I'm asking him whether we can get a refund because he said that they were in near-new condition without any faults. Now I was wondering whether this is a small fix or a major problem. If its a small fix, then we'll just fix it ourself. But if its a major problem, then obviously I'll ask the guy for a refund. Please reply asap as we need to urgently know whether we should refund it or not. Thanks

Hey mate sorry to hear about the incident. But anyways, I'm in no way mechanically minded or anything (so if this seems as a ludacris suggestion meh what ya gonna do...), but something similar happened to a mate's car..... after an oil change hahahah. He would turn the key, hear the fuel line pumping, but then the engine would just keep cranking with no sparks. After hours and hours of trying to figure out what was the problem it turned out that the wires giving current to the spark plugs (don't know what they are called) were knocked ever so slightly so that it wasn't sitting on properly but seemed as if it was. Now I don't know if your problem is as simple as this, but I guess its worth a try to see if that wire is somehow burnt or something. Well anyways, good luck. Rian

Yeh people these days just don't see that some people have passion for their cars. They think that because they believe that they only have a car to go from point A to point B, everybody is like that and so they can thrash it all they want. But nevertheless, as R33-GTS stated, it doesn't matter how much its worth or what you believe, you shouldn't disrespect other people's property. But yeh, I've gotten a few scare at nb in my skyline. But now everytime I go to nb, I always park at the parking under the library cause there's plenty of parking space, it has video surveilence, and the bloody driveway isn't a b***ch like the CPP one. But anyways, hopefully when I get a quote on the scratch it won't be tooo bad. And as everybody stated, hopefully karma does its trick.

Shit.. Sorry to all of yous who has had these kinds of shit done to your car. I can't believe these things just happens so bloody much. I mean what joy do they get from ruining other people's pride and joy. I mean as much as I hate to say this, but even though stealing is shit and all, like there is a point in stealing in like they get something for themself. But just scratching other people's car? Do they spoof in their pants or something from the thrill. Oh yeah, also could not believe it. On that same night, a very good friend who owned a silvia called me at like 2am to tell me that his silv has been keyed. But luckily he knows who did it. So I think I just might let my anger out with him one night

ahhaha.. I've been thinking about that the whole day. But to be honest it can be any d**khead (probably drunk or just an outright idiot) walking by because I live in a student village, so my car is in an open parking lot. So yeh, not the best place to put a skyline i know, but what choice do I have. As much as I hate to say it, I REALLY hope so!

Damn guys, my R33 just got keyed last night. A pretty big one aswel, around 1-1.5m and it's pretty damn deep at some parts. Took a drive this afternoon to find someone has been playing with the right side mirror. Then when I finally stopped and saw the side of the car, there was a HUGE line scratch from the back of the right rear quarter panel to the middle of the door. So pissed ei. I try to take care of my car as much as possible and for this to happen, its bloody annoying. Ahh well.. guess just one more reason to eventually get my car resprayed

Oh ok then. Thanks a lot for your help mad. Appreciate it.

Hm.. all I got on my packaging is "E MARKED ROAD LEGAL". So I don't know whether it is referring to here or where ever the bulbs were designed to be used (which I think is the UK) :S. Well I guess since the philips blue vision are as good as std, I'll probably get them. I wouldn't want them to be too strong anyway, since it's only being used on the road. I can understand what you are trying to say about the LED keyring though because I remembered going camping with a mate who brought something like that as his torch and it could see wide and far, but as you said, was very dull and poorly concentrated. So yeh, thanks a lot for your help on that mad. You wouldn't by any chance also know of any good parkers that gives off a cool white light would ya?

So where can I find out whether the set of bulbs I got are ADR approved or not? And sorry about this, but are you saying that the philips blue vision is good or bad? And what is a +50 bulb? I've never dealt with headlight bulbs before, so forgive me for asking a lot of questions. I'm not trying to go for a ricer look or anything like that. I'm just trying to find a set of bulbs that is as good as the std, if not better, but gives off a cool white light instead. If there isn't any, good ones, I might just stick with the std.

Point taken. Well I just researched it then and my bulbs does give off a cool white light. So yeh, any ideas on what fogs and parking bulbs to get that gives off a cool white light?

Hey I was wondering if anybody could tell me what fog light and park light bulb to use if I am looking for a white with a hint of blue colour light. My friend just bought me a set of H1 Ultra Power Bulbs that is coated blue (which I have read gives off a white with a hint of blue) and so I'm trying to make all my lights the same colour. I did a search on this and found somebody using Phillips Blue Vision for his fogs and another a "5w wedge bulb same as dash lights". Are these any good and do they give off the colour I want? So yeh, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Rian

Its definately the AAC valve. When I just bought my car, I had the same problem of rev hunting. Also if I press the clutch and turned the wheel even a little bit, my car would die because of the rev hunting. I was thinking I had bought a dud but after I cleaned the AAC valve, she's as smooth as can be. Definately worth doing even if your car isn't rev hunting and stalling..... yet.