XKLABA
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Posts posted by XKLABA
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On 29/03/2016 at 9:12 PM, XKLABA said:
Lets try this again
Rebuilt with 0.5mm bigger Wiseco pistons
New UE 260 x 10.8mm cams
OS88 with alloy shaft
Sold dyno wheels so was dynoed on 275-35-19s instead of 255-40-18s so revs are lower then indicated
Also Scott changed from Dyno Dynamics to Mainline which apparently reads lower
Changed coils to Audi R8 NGKs
dailed cams back to 0 deg IN and 0 or 2 deg EX to try stop lifting head knowing we where going for 30psi
Tested rear turbo feed and got more the 10psi vacuum (test gauge only goes to 10psi) @19psi boost, should be good gains left there
still on 275/35/19s
engine bay
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38 minutes ago, ActionDan said:
The graph I posted earlier, was with pods. I dont have a specific airbox vs pods back to back graph, but I was there and fitted them myself then spun it up.
14rkw, on boost sooner, and held boost easier.
Nothing else was changed between runs other than pods.
We had tuned for a new plazaman and gained some power and response, but the pods was done separately.
Ok interesting, did you remove the bung from the feed that goes into the side guard ?
what have you changed on the intake, just airbox or intake pipes as well ?
I still run stock airbox and stock piping and curious of what parts create how much restriction
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Good to see SAU never changes lol
I did type Bs to type Rs on a 2.6 with -7s, both sets dialed for response and both sets made same topend power but the type Rs hit full boost about 800rpm sooner
I can't comment on V stock cams as I never used them in my 34 but the stock cams in my 32 dialed for response easy smacked the 34 for bottom end but when you take into account stock turbos and 4.11 diffs it's not comparable in the slightest
The Type Rs on a 3.0 with RSs went 458awkw@28psi and I have since gone EU 260 cams and Audi R8 coils and .5mm over size in piston with .2 increase in CR, latest graph below
I am interested in your graph of pods V airbox for a R34 as we have hit a wall with boost and my tuner believes it's an intake restriction
I think dialed in the type Rs will give a better result then stock but the best question is will the result be worth the expense
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Bathurst in November?
Is that the regularity event or speed weekend ?
Regularity is sold out
Speed weekend I want to get to
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The auto conversions are still 4WD, each to their own, I don't mind dragging to see what improvement the latest mods have made and for some shits and giggles but track is life
Come on Piggy get this thing finished already, there are tracks that need tearing up
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You would need to find out exactly what the revs are for us to know but going off the speed it looks like it was dynoed in 3rd or maybe 4thDoes this seem low/laggy?
34R
Haltech Platinum Pro
N1 manifolds
-9s
HPI dumps and 3" front pipes
Full 3.5" exhaust after merge, catless
Stock airbox with apexi panel
E85 with 1000cc Injextors and 460lph walbro
22psi despite what graph says.
Cam gears, intake 3deg advance, exhaust 3deg retard.
Twin turbo pipe mod
Torque is oddly high also.
Rpm jumo was explained as tacho pickup on the injector wire because he can't get to the coils
I have a second graph that's fine.
My 4th goes 205@7000 but then it is a little bit longer the factory
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You should only need cam gears, the cams and springs are more then fine to support over 300kw(400hp)
Might want to get rid of the split dumps and maybe check the fuel is good (i.e. The servo put the correct stuff in their pump)
Depends what split dumps they are, I have split dumps on both my cars, 32 on stock turbs makes 291rwkw at 19psi and the 34 with GT-RSs on a 3.0 made 435awkw on 24psi
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I had a mate go through a similar issue, oil in water but no water in oil, 2 head gaskets and a rebuild later it turned out to be a cracked head
If head comes off get it pressure tested
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My FC does all that except the trigger wheel, it doesn't have to use one, and 650km+ out of 60l and 11.1@123mph from stock turbos, what an absolute POS it is lolMy haltech does all sorts of terrible things, like start first time everytime, drives better then it ever has, gets great fuel economy even on e85, makes good power reliably and has rock solid ignition timing due to the ability to run a crank trigger
Yep what a shit ecu
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I haven't had any issues with my PS2000, couldn't really recommend it more, though obviously there are others which have much the same features.If you don't need it though, or aren't interested in it it isn't worth it. However I personally could never go back to an ECU without these features (power FC).For example my car has been tuned many times. I recently dropped the boost to 18psi because reasons. Driving down a totally private road yesterday my car was at 18psi and as it turns out my AFR was 13.1:1.If I had a power FC or even Nistune I would never have really known this.My engine cut after 1s of this condition and because Haltech (and other better ECU's) automatically log this I was able to pull over and see why my engine just did that, and add fuel to the appropriate cells. Yes I have a wideband guage but I did not look at it. I also checked to see why the ECU was not automatically adding fuel to that area via the O2 controller. (can Nistune even do this?)All of the above would just be ignored in a PowerFC world, and you'd be happily boosting away on 13-14AFR under 18psi and you would never, ever, ever notice until your engine decided to melt. Even after going to a tuner many times and being tuned many times on the dyno.Am I paranoid a bit about this stuff? Yeah, maybe.Maybe I've had more problems in the past than other people.But getting a decent ECU, knowing how it (and your car) works to me is really a minimum requirement. I couldn't go back nor could I ever be happy not knowing, or recommending anything less. Anything less is "probably ok, maybe"
So what your saying is the Haltech leaned your engine out for no apparent reason then cut your engine, ok got it
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I too run a haltech platinum pro its the tits, but that doesn't make other ecu's crap thats all im sayin.
Oh mate, if your think Haltech anything is the tits you might want to spend some time on google
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+ wideband 02 feedback
+ 2-step, launch
+ flex
+ engine protection
+ no MAF
+ hectic software
+ no need for data logit box shit
+ usb plug wooooo, serial is homo
+ much much more, we'll even included a set of steak knives.
A fancy list of can dos does not make it a good ecu
People are seeming to miss what makes a good ECU, and that is running the blood engine the way the tuner wants it to run when the tuner wants it to run in the direction it is supposed to be running
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Wat?
TBH i would expect any decent tuner to tune pretty much anything you throw at them. Not just Haltechs. I would expect any tuner to tune PFC's. If they can't/won't then it's simple, we kill the batman.
But in all seriousness, if a tuner can't/won't tune haltechs in particular i would question their abilities.
but anyway this topic is getting out of hand. The question was what ECU for 400KW+ the simple answer is keep the nistune. Buying a PFC when you already have a Nistune makes no logical sense. Speak to your tuner about the top brands and what they like to work with/look into what other people are running. The fact is the majority of performance GTR's run one of the haltech variants these days and there is a reason for it. They are fantastic. But at the end of the day the question of budget is drawn up. Your budget will decide what you get.
Lol, I'm shit stirring
, I see someone get touchy about someone saying something about something they have I like to poke a bit I did say won't though, not can't, if a tuner told me can't tune a Haltech I'd aboutface and leave quick smart lol
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I know of a Haltech Platinum Pro that just dumped its tune for no reason while it was getting driven up a freeway leaving the owner stranded till someone could get a laptop up to him to reload the tuneyeah probably because of his experience with the older Haltech E8, E6x, etc.. they're shit.
The newer Haltechs are amazeballs
Absolutely amazeballs
I know of another newer gen Haltech the managed to make a motor spin backwards somehow, and as much as that is a massive feat it's not something that helps lap times lol
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See the bold writing again.
If a tuner refuses to tune one of the biggest brands in ECU's he is either lazy or doesn't know what he is doing. Either way.
Lol, it's sooo easy, oh no someone is bagging my ECU
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What if your tuner won't tune a Haltech lolIf the tuner can't tune a haltech I suggest finding a new tuner.
I know a few now that charge a surcharge for tuning Haltechs
Frankly IMO if you need more then PFC/Nistune can do I would be stepping over a Haltech to something better
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I have a PFC in my 32 and the original tuner who is one of the most well known tuners in Sydney did a farkin horrible job of tuning it and I wanted to bin it then gave it to Scott@Insight and now it drives better then the stock one ever did
TL;DR, PFC requires a better then good tuner
EmTron > Haltech anyday of the week
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Was built to class rules, IPWow that is average for a race car... but was that built to class rules?
Then after an incident with the IP committee the restrictors where removed and it got put in SS
That was near 10 years ago so I may be a bit off with my memory plus there was no E85 back then either
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.The guy who made my end tanks spent years on the flow bench with designs it was very interesting to see the pressure drop on some name bran coolers
A.R.E ?
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.Hey ID anyone thinks the rears are tok small feel free to buy my tomei turbos and put a gtx3071 in or something
Which ones are they ?
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Runner entries is one thing very few people think about when looking for a cooler but yet one of the most important cause it is a massive factor is pressure drop across the cooler thanks to the turbulance caused as the air gets pushed into them
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Nah man not exactly, it was up their though, high 20s I think
I do remember when it was in IP with the restrictors on the intake it would get to 26-27psi before the restrictors took the fun away from around 5500rpm
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We didn't test mine, I don't have that capability setup on mine but we set the BSM GTR to about 1.8-2:1 back pressure to boost iirc, that was a long time ago nowDid you find boost pressure and manifold pressure to equalize at 28psi?
Were they N1 or std ported ones?
My manifold is threaded and I'll be measuring the difference at some stage.
BSM had Tomei manifolds mine a ported std
At a certain boost level the manifold pressure escalated which is why the boost was set that way
, I see someone get touchy about someone saying something about something they have I like to poke a bit
Educated Guess At The Final Tune Results
in RB30 conversions
Posted
21,000 or 121,000 rpm ?
Getrag would not be very happy with that idea ?