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H@ME

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Posts posted by H@ME

    S2 Stagea Boost Problem

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply. Should not be a dead turbocharger. It was perfect prior to me doing the head gasket etc.

    i removed the wastegate circlip and operated by hand it opens and closes fine.

    removed the intake pipe and spun the compressor wheel by hand - spins freely no issues.

    ill make a boost leak tester and check for leaks shortly - a big leak would make the car run rough yes?? Runs perfect doesn’t drop idle etc just no spool.

    S2 Stagea Boost Problem

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    stagea - s2 rb25det

     

    just done head gasket and timing kit etc

    car has high flow turbo, fmic, bleed valve and exhaust and nistuned

    Car back up and running fine but NO BOOST at all - as in it drives n/a fine boost gauge comes up to the 0 but not even 1psi of boost...

    ideas?

    Stagea Transmission Oil Filter

    in Wagoneers

    Posted · Edited by H@ME
    Added information

    On 3/27/2011 at 2:59 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

    Its a Jatco transmission same as R34 Skyline similar year 300ZX,, some Nissan utes Patrol?.. Doesn't your local parts store have a listing for Stagea? If all else fails you don't really need a new filter as its metal and you can just clean it with stiff brush.

    These are numbers for S1 but you have an S2

    tranny part codes:

    RE4R104E is the trans.

    3172841x02filter

    3152641x07 oring

    3139741x04 gasket

    You may have a slightly different trans.

    Heres how to change the fluid:

    Changing the atf is not a simple task but you can do it yourself. Dropping the sump on the auto box will only yield around 1 or 2 litres but at least then you can clean the fiter (its steel) and pan and then put it back together. then take off a hose from the transmssion oil cooler and run the engine until you have collected a couple of litres. Stop the engine and pour 2L of new atf down the dipstick (for the auto trans ) and repeat til the oil comes out clean. Could take 10 to 12 Litres.

     

     

    In regards to fluid change - This is what I’ve done on autos before -

    just to confirm though if you take sump off and lose approx 2 litres and the. Pump 2 or 3 out of the lines - why would it take 12 litres to fill?

    FYI - for a series 2 auto transmission

    My local repco provided the local part numbers: 

    Filter - NXF17520

    Gasket - NPG5000

     

     

    A/t Light Flashing & Power Cut? Please Help

    in Wagoneers

    Posted

    Hey all had this exact issue happen just over the last two days. Series 2 stagea.

     

    A/T light flashed and the car would drop power to stereo, clock and engine briefly like less than a second ... did this about 10 times on a long drive 

    i pulled over turned car off and went to restart -  no power.

     

    Took the leads off the battery and reconnected - started and drove off. 

    Is this an issue with connectivity of the leads/terminals? They seemed clamped on pretty well. 

    Battery may be old? Shouldn't be alternator should it? If it were alternator wouldn't it just eventually run down the battery and it start?

     

    Will look over the following:

    cracked leads

    clean & refit terminals 

    test voltage in battery and alternator 

    if all else fails I'll look at the resistor mentioned above - 

     

    Hame

     

     

     

     

     

    Differences Between R34 And R33 Turbo

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Hi all I'm doing a little research as I'm after stock reliability for my track car so going back to standard Nissan turbo on my r32 rb25det s2 from my aftermarket set up.

     

    read this post and others -

    what id love to know is what is the 'best' standard Nissan turbo to use.

    i recently bought an Op6 then realised it has the single blade nylon compressor wheel (45v1) and rear steel wheel (shown as have having 6 point hex nut). From other posts I see this turbo is good up to 12psi.

    Now this week mate wants to sell me his op6 turbo for a decent price - this turbo appears to have twin blade (metal) compressor wheel and 45v3 on it. What boost would this turbo be rated too -

    overall which turbo is better??

     

     

     

    Need More Lock On R32

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Bring up old topics - I have an r32 grot set up for drift with the following mods.

    R32 rack

    Offset rack spacers

    Aftermarket pillow ball tie Rod ends

    Cut and shut knuckles

    R33 lca's

    Adjustable castor and upper camber arms

    Run -3 camber

    8mm toe out

    Maximum positive castor

    I have achieved good lock but am hunting more - is it possible to add additional slip on spacers to the rack, can anyone confirm if r33 or s14 racks allow more travel/extension, therefore more lock?

    Cheers - Hame

    R32 Suspension - Hunting More Lock

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    I

    Just to give you a quick idea of the progression I went through from stock to nearly having everything just related to getting lock with r32 steering rack ... add rack spacers and was betteradded s14 rack (not necessary but i needed a new rack anyway) and ground back lock stops was better againadded 3UP knuckles and took lock stops off and moved tab along = not 'epic' but pretty good and prob as good as your going to get without major fabbing of stuffall of the above is combined with your usual caster, camber adj arms and r33 LCA's... i run Kazama caster rods I have had input from others that say running Ikea Formula caster rods may work better to allow more adjustment to give better geometry on bigger lock applicationsmost people said i would get binding at this point but I havent, maybe its due to the s14 rack ?? another guy that drifts with me has all the same gear but stayed r32 and has moved rack forawrd etc etc to reduce bindingget your caster and camber arms in (and / or r33 LCA's) get a good wheel alignment (i run castor just over 7 deg, 6mm total toe out and 3 deg camber on the front)

    I know this may be an old post but I am just adding information.

    I also run the following:

    R32 rack

    Offset rack spacers

    Aftermarket drop spindle tie rod ends

    Cut and shut knuckles

    R33 lca's

    Adjustable upper chamber arm

    Adjustable castor arms

    I run negative 3 deg camber

    8mm toe out

    8 degrees castor

    The set up has done me very well over the past 3 years of constant abuse however I want more now...next steps?

    From memory the rack has completed as much travel as it can. Are there better racks to use e.g s14 or r33? There is conflicting information out there. Some say both s14 and r33 racks have further travel - some say it's just less turns lock to lock.

    As my rack is on the the way out I'm keen to learn.

    Manual Conversion Help

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    I've just completed the ,annual conversion and have wired up the reverse lights and the neutral sensor correctly. Now I am just wondering the speedo and oil pressure gauge are not currently working and the power steering is slightly heavy and hicas light is on. Assuming I have not wired these up as the plus is different on the manual gearbox loom.

    Anyone confirm where the wires are or n which plug on thE car side (car originally an auto).

    Thanks

    Auto To Maunal Conversion R33 S1

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted · Edited by H@ME

    Yes. Um. What? My 9/16 socket is 20mm OD. As far as I can recall, the OD of the auto spigot is ~20mm and the ID is significantly less. So how the hell is any 9/16 socket supposed to fit inside the auto spigot bush?

    From what I'm hearing, it sounds like THERE IS NO SPIGOT BUSH installed in that crank.

    Hey man, have a look at photo above.. That is the 10mm deep auto spiggot is it not? And my apologies all it was a 13mm socket.

    Auto To Maunal Conversion R33 S1

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    So I tried the grease method this evening with NO luck I used a 3/8 extension and a 9/16 socket which was perfect inner diameter. It did not budge a bit...think this is because I had a good go a bashing it prior. The extension just kept spitting back out of the socket. Looks like I will drill it out and cave it?

    Auto To Maunal Conversion R33 S1

    in Drivetrain and transmission

    Posted

    Yeah it's an absolute prick!

    I have done research on the grease method and understand it fully. It seems to work s treat on the manual spigot bush as there is space behind it where the incomparable substance can push the spigot out however with the AUTO one there is no space behind it so I don't think the grease method will work?

    Anyone here removed the rb25det auto spiggot using the grease method? I'm starting to think to use a tap or grind it down and collapse - just done want to damage any of the crank.

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