tomtomtuning

July 11, 2007

Bigger turbo first.

If you need more Air.. then get some tomie cam's

July 10, 2007

I'd also say look into the Adaptronic.
Will be having mine fitted and tuned very soon.

I decided on the Haltech E11v2, I should be ordering it next week.

July 6, 2007

There is another system i have been looking at. Its called VEMS

It originated from megasquirt. but alot better now.

it uses a modified version of Megatune.

http://www.vems.co.uk/

But i dont wanna cheap out when it comes to an EMS.

Haltech E11v2

Autronics SM4

Motec M600

MicroTech LTX12s

Any one better then othe other?

July 4, 2007

Hi TomTomTuning , I'm a little curious what it is that falls short in your opinion of the Power FC . I'm not trying to change your mind but I'm wondering if theres something the PFC can't do or is a mass airflow metre thing .
BTW guys , very interesting to hear that the Autronic SM4 can use a hotwire or mass air sensor as the load sensing device .

If Aubers (sp ?) mob has got the circuitry in that ECU to suit a wide range of MAF sensors then thats a big plus . If I had to go stand alone and the SM4 can do it that would be my choice . The other thing I think is important is to be able to READ properly the Nissan 360 degree optical crank angle sensor . I don't accept the idea that have an approaching TDC reference pulse and 6 slots (1 for each cylinder) is acceptable nowdays .

I did speak to Justin when he worked for EFI Technology (Haltech) and they were working towards their box talking directly to the Nissan 360 deg optucal sensor type CAS . When the Autronic can do it and use MAF sensing and do sequential injection and drive 6 coils I'd consider it .

For what I want which is road and possibly a few track days eventually the PFC has me covered . The Nismo 550cc injectors I have and Z32/Q45 MAFS are an easy upgrade for me .

Full Race Geoff tells me that the Apexi tuning software is fantastic and behind several million others I'd like it too - in English .

Interesting discussion , cheers A .

Nothing against the PFC at all.

I was always interested in doing a flying lead harrness to get rid of alot of the wiring mess.

And the PFC is a little harder to come across now adays.

I am also not sure if a Z32 MAF will support the power i plan on making.

I have a spare block i am building up, and plan on putting that in the car soon.

Thats why i was looking at haltech/autronics.

My car will also be Street/drag, i also have spoken to Geoff a couple times and he swears up and down by the AEM EMS...

July 2, 2007

Bumping my old thread!!!!

I still haven’t decided what management i want to get

And I am about ready to order it; I haven’t done so already because I have been working on some other stuff on the car. My local tuner is trying to steer me into a new system from the UK called VEMS. But I am not sure if I really want to go with something that there isn’t a lot of knowledge about and/or support.

If I go with Haltech, I can only use the “E11v2” Right?

Since it’s the only one that has over 4 injector drivers?

The Autronics I think is just two costly, but then again the E11v2 is almost as expensive

Any suggestions?

June 15, 2007

Haltech's and autronic are completely different ecu and are tuned in a completely different manner. Not sure if the haltech can be throttle/pressure mapped but it does sound like this could be an issue. Does the tuner have a good reputation?

Fuel pressure

Timing

Spark plugs

A/F

Things to pay real big attention to !!!

June 7, 2007

Here are some pictures of my car....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...162572&st=0

Make sure you check out the last page, for new pic's i posted.

Thanks!!!

June 7, 2007

Hello every one

Some of you might remember me having a problem where my car would make boost while not moving (not under a load) Well honestly i believe i still have that problem. But that is beside the point. Sine then i have replaced timing belt, set ignition timing to 15 degrees... etc...

But while trouble shooting that issue, i decided to check the TPS voltage to insure that its correct.

I understand that when closed i should be getting about 0.3-0.5 and when open i believe its about 6.0?

But....

I get about 6.0 voltage when the throttle is closed, and as i open the throttle it begins to go up

Then as i continue to open the throttle the voltage goes back down... untill its 100%

I have a 90mm Q45 Throttle body using the RB25 TPS. and its an S1 RB25

the one clip from the Q45 TPS is differnt, but once clip is the same. The clip that is the same is the one i check for the voltage. So i tired the Q45 TPS hopping that my RB25 TPS might be defective but the same thing happens

I plan on hooking up my consult that i just got up this week, to see what it reads for the TPS

And compare that to what i get using the multimeter.

But i just wanted to know what every one thought?

remember i have a RB25 in a US Spec Nissan 240sx...

And the wiring had to be converted to work. but every thing else is fine on the car.

May 20, 2007

I think the SM4 (Autronics) is really what i am leaning to.

Because i know the tuner is really good.

The SM4 will run me about ... 2,424.30 AUD (2000.00 US)

Plus 72.00 AUD (60.00 US) for the trigger wheel

And 193.944 AUD (160.00 US) for the ignition multiplexer

Plus tuning... WOW... extremely costly

I will still look into Haltech/Motec and see what the prices will before that.

May 20, 2007

Here are some random pic's ....

The car is on the ground now, but its still not done...

I am still working on it, so there is several things i need to do..

May 20, 2007

Mine only makes 5psi or so on the 2nd or 3rd hard rev. Never on the first rev, thats a RB30det with a standard size turbo.

I got every thing back togetter.. but still having the boost issue.

But today was checking the TPS signal to make sure thats right.. And its not.

It reads 6.XX when closed, and like 9.XX when open.

I have a serious TPS issue...

I am still trying to work this issue out.

I ordered a Nissan Consult, and it should be here later this week.

Which should allow me to see what the TPS signal is.

If i cant fix eather problem, they will just wait till i get my standalone then.

I think if the TPS is reading that high.. that the car is sending a massive amount of fuel

Which would explain alot of stuff, like the really bad hesitation,

and the black when ever i rev it up a decent amount

May 19, 2007

Hello Every one,

Some of you might know, i have what you would call a Silvia, with a S1 RB25DET.

I am getting ready to pick up a standalone, and I can not decide what to get.

Lets start off with my goal, i plan on making about 450-500HP (335.56KW-372.85)

I am looking to get rid of the AFM (MAF) and switch to Map sensor also (reason why i donââ‚¬â„¢t want a PFC)

There will be all supporting modifications to handle the 450-500HP (335.56KW-372.85) goal.

So that is not a problem

The type of driving will be, Drag/track/street

I was wondering what EMS to go with.

Motec

Haltech

Autronics

EMS

Any other(s)?

Price isnt to much of an issue, i just want to know what would be my best option.

There is a Autronics dealer/tuner in my town. Which is a friend of a friend...

He is 1 of 16 in the US the whole us. Which is why I am leaning to Autronics

Any Advice is appreciated

May 11, 2007

GTR fuel rail is pretty much the same as a GST besides being top feed right?

RB26 fuel rail fits on the RB25.

So yes, you can use a GTR(RB26) Fuel Rail on a GST(RB25)

With Top feed injectors

May 9, 2007

You can always get an aftermarket Rail.

HKS makes one.

But i would personally recommend just removing, cleaning then repainting yours.

Saves alot of money. and i am sure it will look fine.

I have a R33 RB25 so i have side feed injectors.

I plan on going topfeed so thats why i am going with a new fuel rail.

April 10, 2007

Power Enterprise belt installed

Timing on point

I am now waiting for some other new parts i ordered

Like new Radiator, Fans and Cooling panel

Once that gets here ill start it back up and see how things turn out.

An other thing id like to mention is...

being that i have the Greddy IM and Q45 Throttle body, larger IC piping and a bigger FMIC With the Stock T3.

Do you think since there is alot more Air passing though the motor now that it would have enough load to spin that little turbo?

Well updates to come !!!

April 6, 2007

So tomorrow the new timing belt should be here.

I will instal the belt, make sure every thing is on point.

Then fire it up again.

I will post videos of the outcome.

April 6, 2007

So about 3 people have agreed that there care makes boost when reving it.

my car also requires me to rev it up pretty high in order to get the boost.

April 6, 2007

have you tried to change your cas over with another one just to try and take it out of the equation? It could be a dodgy cas giving it wrong timing. What about the boost gauge, have you tried to use one of your mates? It could just be a dodgy gauge aswell??
I havent seen the footage, but at idle does the turbo actually sould like its spooling, or is it quite? Im in the middle of putting a n/a sr20 with a bolted on turbo in a mates s14, and we had the timing way too retarded and it was hitting boost at idle, but you could hear the turbo spooling, and when you turned it off, the turbo fluttered like as if you were driving and backed off on the accelerator. Does the turbo compressor surge or "flutter" when you turn the motor off.

Turbos need load to get boost, or an antilag system. When you flatten the accelerator in neurtal, your creating some load on the motor, not as much as normal driving, but still theres enough load to create some boost. Theres no way of getting boost at idle without antilag, for the simple reason that there isnt enough load.

Theres two common antilag systems. The first is aggressive air injection, and the second works off igntion timing. So if anybody is definately getting boost at idle, and you will be able to hear the turbo spool, i would say its timing related.

Being that I am in the USA, it is not easy to try another CAS.

But I do think the CAS from a Q45 is the same as the RB25.

I did not get to try another boost gauge.

As soon as I got to the garage I took to belt cover off

And since I decided to replace the belt, I began removing it.

So until I get the new timing belt, the motor is disabled.

Once I get it back together, I am going to fire it up again, and try another gauge.

If I set the timing to anything below 10* I can begin to hear the turbo spool

but at 15* its fine. and when I rev it up.. and it makes boost. I can see my piping couplers expand due to boost

So I know its making some sort of boost.

I would really appreciated, if people try it out on there car and let me know how it turns out.

if also want to buy the Consult to hook up to my car, so if can see engine statistics

to better determined what is going on with the engine

April 6, 2007

UPDATE !!!!

Today I pulled the front cover off.

I set the crank to TDC (top dead center)

Both Cam gears lined up with the marks

The timing belt did have some flop to it

instead of just adjusting the tension more

I will be replacing the belt with an aftermarket on (such as the Greddy belt)

I also removed the Cam/Rocker cover's

And the cams are just fine.

So new timing belt is going on this weekend, putting it all back together.

But I still think its going to make boost...

Any other ideas?

I spoke to a couple of my buddies who have high horse power cars (knowledgeable)

and they said its ok normal to see the turbo boost some on no load. but it will boost more on a load...

but then I speak to other ppl who say there car doesn't make 1psi when up rev it all the way to the revlimter

April 5, 2007

mine would make small amounts of boost if you just floored it (spike up to maybe 5psi) but wouldn't go to full boost.

Yes, that i have heard about. i have had 2 SR20's before and that is what they did.. small amount of boost. but not full boost.

Tomorrow the first thing i am going to do is pull the fornt cover and see if i can tell if the timing is off on the cam gears.

And if they are.. then it looks like ill be doing some work to re adjust it....

I will update you tomorrow with what i find, and the out come.

THANKS to every one !!!!!

April 5, 2007

the ZERO point is the yellow marer on the pulley. Esentially if the light is on the pulley, the ZERo mark is the first mark form top, so it goes 0 5 10 15 20 25 30

Thats what it shows in the FSM....

But when ever i set it to 15 (starting from the first left mark)

The car seems really rough.

I guess the engin timing is that off?????

I might as well just remove the belt cover and take a look at the timing marks on the cam

To see if that is off.

April 5, 2007

and i think you have to disconnect the TPS too.

I did disconnect the TPS....

What about the 0* mark... which one is it.. ?

April 5, 2007

by the look of the video, i think it may be just a dodgy gauge. it doesn't actually sound like it is spooling, and it jumps up very quick. my mates car you could hear the turbo spool. does one of your mates have a gause you could borrow?
where does they gauge read from?

Its a brand new AutoMeter Boost gauge....But there is always possiable it could be bad.

I will see if my buddy has another gauge.

It is connected to the Intake manifold, runs though the fire wall and to my dash

I used a crappy digital camera to record the video, so the sound might not be the best.

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