tomtomtuning

Bigger turbo first. If you need more Air.. then get some tomie cam's

I decided on the Haltech E11v2, I should be ordering it next week.

There is another system i have been looking at. Its called VEMS It originated from megasquirt. but alot better now. it uses a modified version of Megatune. http://www.vems.co.uk/ But i dont wanna cheap out when it comes to an EMS. Haltech E11v2 Autronics SM4 Motec M600 MicroTech LTX12s Any one better then othe other?

Nothing against the PFC at all. I was always interested in doing a flying lead harrness to get rid of alot of the wiring mess. And the PFC is a little harder to come across now adays. I am also not sure if a Z32 MAF will support the power i plan on making. I have a spare block i am building up, and plan on putting that in the car soon. Thats why i was looking at haltech/autronics. My car will also be Street/drag, i also have spoken to Geoff a couple times and he swears up and down by the AEM EMS...

Bumping my old thread!!!! I still haven’t decided what management i want to get And I am about ready to order it; I haven’t done so already because I have been working on some other stuff on the car. My local tuner is trying to steer me into a new system from the UK called VEMS. But I am not sure if I really want to go with something that there isn’t a lot of knowledge about and/or support. If I go with Haltech, I can only use the “E11v2” Right? Since it’s the only one that has over 4 injector drivers? The Autronics I think is just two costly, but then again the E11v2 is almost as expensive Any suggestions?

Fuel pressure Timing Spark plugs A/F Things to pay real big attention to !!!

Here are some pictures of my car.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...162572&st=0 Make sure you check out the last page, for new pic's i posted. Thanks!!!

Hello every one Some of you might remember me having a problem where my car would make boost while not moving (not under a load) Well honestly i believe i still have that problem. But that is beside the point. Sine then i have replaced timing belt, set ignition timing to 15 degrees... etc... But while trouble shooting that issue, i decided to check the TPS voltage to insure that its correct. I understand that when closed i should be getting about 0.3-0.5 and when open i believe its about 6.0? But.... I get about 6.0 voltage when the throttle is closed, and as i open the throttle it begins to go up Then as i continue to open the throttle the voltage goes back down... untill its 100% I have a 90mm Q45 Throttle body using the RB25 TPS. and its an S1 RB25 the one clip from the Q45 TPS is differnt, but once clip is the same. The clip that is the same is the one i check for the voltage. So i tired the Q45 TPS hopping that my RB25 TPS might be defective but the same thing happens I plan on hooking up my consult that i just got up this week, to see what it reads for the TPS And compare that to what i get using the multimeter. But i just wanted to know what every one thought? remember i have a RB25 in a US Spec Nissan 240sx... And the wiring had to be converted to work. but every thing else is fine on the car.

I think the SM4 (Autronics) is really what i am leaning to. Because i know the tuner is really good. The SM4 will run me about ... 2,424.30 AUD (2000.00 US) Plus 72.00 AUD (60.00 US) for the trigger wheel And 193.944 AUD (160.00 US) for the ignition multiplexer Plus tuning... WOW... extremely costly I will still look into Haltech/Motec and see what the prices will before that.

Here are some random pic's .... The car is on the ground now, but its still not done... I am still working on it, so there is several things i need to do..

I got every thing back togetter.. but still having the boost issue. But today was checking the TPS signal to make sure thats right.. And its not. It reads 6.XX when closed, and like 9.XX when open. I have a serious TPS issue... I am still trying to work this issue out. I ordered a Nissan Consult, and it should be here later this week. Which should allow me to see what the TPS signal is. If i cant fix eather problem, they will just wait till i get my standalone then. I think if the TPS is reading that high.. that the car is sending a massive amount of fuel Which would explain alot of stuff, like the really bad hesitation, and the black when ever i rev it up a decent amount

Hello Every one, Some of you might know, i have what you would call a Silvia, with a S1 RB25DET. I am getting ready to pick up a standalone, and I can not decide what to get. Lets start off with my goal, i plan on making about 450-500HP (335.56KW-372.85) I am looking to get rid of the AFM (MAF) and switch to Map sensor also (reason why i don’t want a PFC) There will be all supporting modifications to handle the 450-500HP (335.56KW-372.85) goal. So that is not a problem The type of driving will be, Drag/track/street I was wondering what EMS to go with. Motec Haltech Autronics EMS Any other(s)? Price isnt to much of an issue, i just want to know what would be my best option. There is a Autronics dealer/tuner in my town. Which is a friend of a friend... He is 1 of 16 in the US the whole us. Which is why I am leaning to Autronics Any Advice is appreciated

RB26 fuel rail fits on the RB25. So yes, you can use a GTR(RB26) Fuel Rail on a GST(RB25) With Top feed injectors

You can always get an aftermarket Rail. HKS makes one. But i would personally recommend just removing, cleaning then repainting yours. Saves alot of money. and i am sure it will look fine. I have a R33 RB25 so i have side feed injectors. I plan on going topfeed so thats why i am going with a new fuel rail.

Power Enterprise belt installed Timing on point I am now waiting for some other new parts i ordered Like new Radiator, Fans and Cooling panel Once that gets here ill start it back up and see how things turn out. An other thing id like to mention is... being that i have the Greddy IM and Q45 Throttle body, larger IC piping and a bigger FMIC With the Stock T3. Do you think since there is alot more Air passing though the motor now that it would have enough load to spin that little turbo? Well updates to come !!!

So tomorrow the new timing belt should be here. I will instal the belt, make sure every thing is on point. Then fire it up again. I will post videos of the outcome.

So about 3 people have agreed that there care makes boost when reving it. my car also requires me to rev it up pretty high in order to get the boost.

Being that I am in the USA, it is not easy to try another CAS. But I do think the CAS from a Q45 is the same as the RB25. I did not get to try another boost gauge. As soon as I got to the garage I took to belt cover off And since I decided to replace the belt, I began removing it. So until I get the new timing belt, the motor is disabled. Once I get it back together, I am going to fire it up again, and try another gauge. If I set the timing to anything below 10* I can begin to hear the turbo spool but at 15* its fine. and when I rev it up.. and it makes boost. I can see my piping couplers expand due to boost So I know its making some sort of boost. I would really appreciated, if people try it out on there car and let me know how it turns out. if also want to buy the Consult to hook up to my car, so if can see engine statistics to better determined what is going on with the engine

UPDATE !!!! Today I pulled the front cover off. I set the crank to TDC (top dead center) Both Cam gears lined up with the marks The timing belt did have some flop to it instead of just adjusting the tension more I will be replacing the belt with an aftermarket on (such as the Greddy belt) I also removed the Cam/Rocker cover's And the cams are just fine. So new timing belt is going on this weekend, putting it all back together. But I still think its going to make boost... Any other ideas? I spoke to a couple of my buddies who have high horse power cars (knowledgeable) and they said its ok normal to see the turbo boost some on no load. but it will boost more on a load... but then I speak to other ppl who say there car doesn't make 1psi when up rev it all the way to the revlimter

Yes, that i have heard about. i have had 2 SR20's before and that is what they did.. small amount of boost. but not full boost. Tomorrow the first thing i am going to do is pull the fornt cover and see if i can tell if the timing is off on the cam gears. And if they are.. then it looks like ill be doing some work to re adjust it.... I will update you tomorrow with what i find, and the out come. THANKS to every one !!!!!

Thats what it shows in the FSM.... But when ever i set it to 15 (starting from the first left mark) The car seems really rough. I guess the engin timing is that off????? I might as well just remove the belt cover and take a look at the timing marks on the cam To see if that is off.

I did disconnect the TPS.... What about the 0* mark... which one is it.. ?

Its a brand new AutoMeter Boost gauge....But there is always possiable it could be bad. I will see if my buddy has another gauge. It is connected to the Intake manifold, runs though the fire wall and to my dash I used a crappy digital camera to record the video, so the sound might not be the best. More videos to come tomorrow. ....

The video was taken when the timing was off. before i begin adjusting it. I will make another video tomorrow. showing how it rev's faster and smoother now. And again, can some one confirm for me which mark on the crank pulley is 0* ? is it the one all the way to the left, or the right..... The stock timing should be st at 15* at engine idle of 650RPM

In the video you can tell (sort of) how fast it rev's up When i set the timing to the marks on the right, it was real responsive. but in the factory service manual, it stats that 0* is the first mark on the left. My car seems 0* is the first mark on the right. Can any one confirm for me, what TDC is on the crank pulley? The car is on jack stands, i am doing the brake upgrade right now. but tomorrow i will try to drive the car some, to see how it is. All the vacuum lines are fine, i double checked all that The intercooler piping will be changed sooner or later. I am going to drive the car the way it is.. for this summer And i am building another RB25 block/head, and will be installing the built motor in the fall. So a better much more efficient intercooler and piping will be installed then I Plan on checking the ignition timing again (CAS) And if i can not figure this out, then i will have to pull the belt cover And try to take a look at the engine timing. I might also pull the rocker/valve cover to take a look at the cam's too