WYTSKY

yeh cheers roy, i did say some silly response to u, but it got lost in here pretty quick if i had the money, know how and time, that turbo would be sitting in my lounge room instead of this one, but for my car at the moment, this appears to be the sensible choice... and im happy with it hope it goes well for you mate.

Thanks Lithium, been a long time coming hey mate, no im still gonna have the N/A bottom and top end for now... hence, the not too much psi or kilowatts for now, I just had a few issues with internal gate, so want to go external. I may think about the gate on the housing.... its just... it looks so pretty right now... plus if it cracks then im guessing it could ruin the turbo too? Cheers, Adam

thanks mate, I have seen some clean jobs so the vanity is saved, but i am not too familiar with it's design as such. im sure most will say aftermarket one, in which case I would get one for piece of mind. Cheers.

Thats alright, i dont think i would mount it off the housing, i am a little vain , but ill talk to trent aswell, see what he thinks, the only difference is about 2-3weeks...ie... if i can get away with using modified stock manifold then it could be on much sooner, but if i need to get the hks, will take a few weeks of saving! Interms of limited timing... dont know, u may be right. have to wait and see. mmm, well i just thought as I dont have either of those 3 yet, and I want response, why not go the .63 for now, then in the future the .82 if needed.... Thanks for the continued help guys!

Thats pretty good response, and a ton of pressure! but yeh, i'd say for now i'd like to cap psi to about 15-16 max and no more then 270rwkw... I can always change the exhaust housing later.... but given the compression ratio of the n/a motor and the fact it is not forged yet and its my only car... saftey of the motor would appear to be more important. I would want something decent and low mount if I have to get a manifold and I want to do this right, so yeh HKS, or 6boost or something up there... Lithium's got me a bit worried. haha, thanks for the input U know I would have gone down that route if I had the time and money to get it hooked up... gl with it though.

let me make sure were talking about the same thing: U turn on ur car, its cold, u start driving, while driving it is fine, you pull up to the lights and the car starts reving... after the water temp goes normal the car is fine... if this is the case ur mates are wrong.... they may have guessed something to do with radiator as seems to appear it stops when the coolant is warmed up.... but its not the case Skylines have an AAC... and auxiliary air control valve that is used when ur foot isnt on the accelerator opening up the butterfly. This is how the car doesn't stall when you stop at lights. on the back of the plenum, the big shinny metal thing on the driver's side of the motor at the top, near the firewall, thats where the AAC is located. Unfortunetly as our cars are up to ~19ish years old, it gets a build up of carbon over the years, which is your issue. Heres the link to the tutorial.... u need to take the AAC off, give it a GOOD cleanout with carby cleaner (strong stuff, much stronger then degs-infact the first time I did it i spilt a lil on my washing machine as i was moving the aac from the sink in the landry... in 2 seconds it started melting the plastic... smells sweet though...), chuck it back on and u'll be fine. u'll see a screw on the side of it, that is ur idle screw, u can adjust that in or out, and will affect ur revs. After u have cleaned it, it may still rev abit, so turn ur car on and wait for the revs, get a screw driver and screw it in or out until it stops. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html Adam

Thanks for the input guys, makes me feel at ease I bought it from Japwarehouse in Melbourne, who got it off their offiical Garrett/Honeywell distributer, Dave was really friendly and helpful and it came the next day! He believed with a .82 that full boost would be on at about 4,000-4,500 and the .63 at about 3,400-3,500, so i wanted better response. So if i want anti surge I am meant to take this funnel off? Disco,Pics are bellow, Tell me if u need any more, this wont be on my car for atleast a month...Yes, they are allen key type, and the funnel DOES NOT have any dimples, or holes for them, the bottom of the fasteners just look like they grab the funnel, but there is and edge surrounding it so it can't slip in or out... Dale, thanks for the help with the studs and pm, just doubling what I said in the pm: I have been told I do not need a hks manifold for my application and modifying the stock manifold would be fine. What do you guys think? the only concern i have is if the welds crack if they use a different metal to the manifold that reacts and expands differently to heat and then cracks... but if I get an aftermarket manifold it would be low mount. I was looking at putting a Tial 44mm gate with it, so as not to get boost creep as I believe it would be large enough? Cheers, Adam

Hey guys, I'd just like to say thanks for the advice given in regards to my questions about the TD06 stuff in the other thread, based on that and a fair few hours searching I decided to purchase a GT3076r instead as it appears it will be cheaper and easier in a number of ways including installation, while still giving the output I desire, or close to. I just want to check everything is all ok, as my knowledge of this stuff is pretty minuscule compared to others. It is an external gate, I asked for a .82 housing but apparently that was going to be too laggy, so i got a .63 rear housing instead. I ordered an anti surge compressor housing, which it came with, just wanted to ask what this component is as i have not seen it in pictures on the net (see below) and I am assuming it is necessary not just an option to put on? I was told (and from what I have searched) this turbo will be quite responsive, and put out a substantial amount of power.... roughly 270-280rwkw on about 17psi with supporting mods? Also, I need 4 longer studs for this to suit the 10mm spacer.. anyone know a place? or the part number or dimensions I need to ask for? And a final question, what size oil feed line do I need and oil feed bolt? Thanks, and sorry for the multiple questions, just want to make sure I got the "right one". Adam

I have seen the rest before, thats pretty impressive.

sure u wouldnt sell just the manifold?

hmm, so about 4,000 full boost for a 25g and for a 20g about what, 3,400? Im just basing that on the one I went in.

I am actually after the 20g, same as you've got , not a 25g, its just I can't find any! I have sent you a pm. cheers. By the way, when do you find boost kicks in? Thanks mate, I am talking to him at the moment about it, I just dont want to waste his time if I want a 20g response or close to, out of a 25g and its much laggier. Thanks for that mate, the only question I want to know, is how much roughly response do I loose?

Thanks heaps for the detailed input, at the moment, from what i can see, the highest detonation noise I have is 17, so I have been told I am safe, its apparent you know alot more about this then me, all i know is that a de piston is slightly domed at the top and the det piston is flat, ie, to increase compression. If a thicker head gasket were needed to drop the compression slightly then I can accept that, would that be a solution that could potentially increase engine life? I forgot to mention that in the future i would be considering forging the motor, so I was hoping for a turbo that I could run on a relatively low boost for now and then turn up after. I was always under the impression that if I stay around the 15psi mark for now that I should be relatively safe. Btw, I admit I am biased towards the TD06 range because thats the only larger turboed vehicle I have been in other then mine, I have never felt how a 3076r goes. I have seen a number of their dyno graphs are quite impressive, so its not out of the question at all. As for the hypergear tr43, it has been a good turbo, but i just want to sample some other manufacturers too. Cheers, Adam.

Hey guys, recently I have gotten over the 230rwkw power of my car and I want to go on to bigger and faster things. I once went in Dr drift's 32 with a 25 on it and a td06 20g and it was insane in response and power.... since then I havent been able to keep my mind of these turbos. Anyway, its been so hard to find one and there is a particular seller on here who is selling a td06 25g, who I do not want to waste their time if I buy a turbo thats not going to make me happy. I can't seem to find much about these turbos anywhere! in the dyno threads on here or on google.. The idea was/is to get a td06 l2 20g, get a hks lowmount manifold, make up an adapter to convert from T3 to the 3 bolt, and try to keep it hidden from cops as much as possible. So please help and tell me: td06 20g vs td06 25g? The aim is about 260rwkw at the moment BUT with lots of room for the future without paying and upgrading turbos again. I have all the supporting mods bar forged engine and cams I guess. For me, response and hard hitting boost is much more important then an extra 20kw.... Would it be possible to get the 25g and instead of the 10cm housing get an 8cm to increase response? So the range of turbos I am interested in are: TD06's, 3076r, 3071r?, anything else recommended? One thing to note: The car is a 33 with a 25 in it and still has non turbo compression which apparently helps turbo response, at the moment I have about 15psi at 3,400-3,500, which is pretty responsive for me. Thanks in advance, Adam

well if the car doesnt feel smooth reving and if u hear sorta like bop bop bop... it will be hesitant, ie u put ur foot down and though the revs it coughs a splutters... thats sign of faulty coils or spark plugs...

mmmm... i can't clear it up but i can say that 33 gtst brakes with abs and slotted rotors definitely pulls my car up fast. much more powerful then the standard gts brakes. so for an n/a, 33 gtst brakes would be heaps.

hes just trying to intro himself i presume?

im sure theres an easy way like getting under there and testing if the circuit is complete, otherwise,take out the cluster to see

hey mate, possible to have some close up images of the rear bar + damage ? see if its worse then mine.... someone scraped mine a little last week

did "they" give you a 2 year warranty or did u get one of those rip off warranties from a third party that most importers offer, where u have to pay for services like every 5,000km from a legit mechanic and it only covers a certain amount for each part of the car?

your all welcome, and yeh, i put up with it for far too long as well...

nope - its meant to be off... only comes on if theres a problem with atessa ( the 4wd system of the car ) could be things like low fluid in the resovior ( found in the boot on the right handside behind the carpet) or even things like uneven wheels ie commo spec - if you have stocks on the back and big rims on the front, but basiclly if the light is on, atessa is off..... get it checked out. can also be some electrical faults with it aswell, theres lots of things.... Adam