Bozz
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Posts posted by Bozz
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Hey nobby,
The water leaks in the base got in from underneath, not via the brake system. Everything in the hydraulic part of the servo unit was pristine.
Realistically, I reckon if the following kit were available:
Three ridged bottom modulator O-rings
Three top modulator O-rings
Eight pipe O-rings between the upper and lower body
That we'd easily be able to fix all leaks since thats where I think they come from.
If we can't get the exact specs from ND Japan, there's not really much harm in getting three or four different sizes for the modulator O-rings made up to see which size stops the leaks.
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I've got D2 8 piston calipers up front and 4 piston calipers at the rear with 356mm rotors all round.
I can get them to fade at Sandown but not at Winton. I need to improve the cooling to the front rotors, once I've got good ducts in place, they'll probably be fine. What'll kill them is semi slicks that are coming soon.
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Bit more info
The base of mine was leak free, a little water found its way into the spring cavity area.
I'm fairly sure the leaks were coming from the three O rings either at the top or bottom of the modulator solenoids. Dont pull apart the base unless you really want to know whats in it.
There are very powerful springs in there so undo bolts one turn at a time to evenly distribute the load, until you have about a CM of gap then go for it with each bolt. Nothing springs out at a million miles an hour if you evenly reduce the load on the base plate.
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Yeah cap is just pressed in. Good luck!
I used a BFH and an 18" plumbers pipe wrench to get the cap off.
Underneath is a 12mm allen socket. You'll need a 1/2 or 3/4 drive socket with 12mm allen key head, big vice and a one meter breaker bar to crack it.
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I attempted it but never completed it due to having trouble sourcing the ridged EPDM O-rings at the base of each modulator.
What I've learned,
They're a c.nt to get parts for,
- Nippon Denso didn't want to help. At all. Perhaps some others who can write Japanese may be able to contact ND Japan for exact part numbers or specifications, exploded view, suppliers of O rings etc. I found a couple of chinese hydraulic places that would make the seals if I could get the _exact_ measurements, material hardness and some other things I wrote down somewhere and they'd mail them over in 8 or so weeks.
I think the modulators are tri-state. The ABS/4WD computer seems to send three signals:
Release Pressure - ~4 amps
Maintain Pressure - ~1.5 amps
Apply Pressure - off
From what I understand, normal ABS units have seperate valves for maintain and release - so 6 modulators for a 3 channel ABS and 8 modulators for the more common 4 channel ABS used today.
I spent ages at wreckers and could not find any ABS servo units that only use one modulator per channel. When I checked the wiring, most had may more wires and resistive circuits.
The accumulator and motor looks pretty standard fare - the motor drives two pistons on each side to pump the fluid back to the MC. I haven't torn up the modulators to see exactly whats in them.
I lost interest, they're cheap second hand so I got one
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Yep, getting a car trailer and second set of rims for track use only
I'm seriously interested in life span of semi's at tracks like Winton, Sandown and PI.
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Recovered after Andrew gave your ear the what-for?
What rims do you currently have offset wise, that's probably more the issue than tyres.
245 is a bit small for a GTR.
Still some ringing in the right ear
I'm looking from a dollar/performance ratio - 265x35x18 A048's delivered are ~$335 ea from www.tirerack.com, I can't justify an extra $200 per tyre to buy a newer model from elsewhere for probably less than a second per lap improvement. I'm running Hankook street tyres now so anything is an improvement.
Current rims have a poor offset - 18x9.5 @ +30mm so the track is too narrow. After some more thought, I think I should do the following:
Buy 9.5" track rims with around +18-22mm offset so the 265x35x18's fit,
Buy a set of R34 GTR rims for street use, since they're 18x9 @ +30mm,
Sell my existing wheels.
Another option for track use, are bolt on spacers safe if I use them on my existing rims?
Cheers
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I need some semi slicks in 255x35x18 size to fit my 9.5" rims.
I've got 18x9.5 rims currently with shitty street 255x35x18 tyres, 265's will fit the rear but the front will most likely hit on the upper suspension arm.
What are equivalent semi slicks to the Yokohama A048's that are available in 255/35/18, 245/35/18 or 245/40/18 ?
Thanks
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How hard is it to get the clock out? And is there a tutorial on this? Would love to take my clock apart but not game until I can see it step by step... If you could make a quick one that would be awesome!
Hey mate,
It needs very experienced hands to de/resolder. If you've never used a desoldering station to remove large integrated circuits before, I'd leave it for a pro. If you print out the photos and take it to a TV repair shop, they should fix it for well under $100, I'd guess $50 or so.
Someone else said they cut all the pins on the VFL then resoldered them back on after fixing the problem.
It will work if you can't desolder however I'd be stupidly careful, would be so easy to chip the glass by cutting the pins because its puts a lot of force on a tiny area of the display.
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oo nice. Ive got a Spal thermofan controller. One of those most advanced ones on the market. I reckon build yours similar to the workings of this one.
http://www.spalusa.com/store/Main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=FAN-PWM-V3
Click on the PDF further down the page for a better understanding of the workings.
Nice - I want to improve on it too - some extra things on my mind
- Full speed on decel with throttle closed when above 85 deg
- Off when foot is to the floor (tiny bit less electrical load)
- Off when going faster than perhaps 90km/h
- Engage low speed one second before high speed to reduce inrush current and dimming of lights etc
- Run for 2-5 mins after engine switch off to reduce heat soak (probably get a VW elec supplimentary water pump too)
Cheers
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Well shit eh... if I pull the dash apart for any reason again in the future, I'll take pictures and do a quick write up.
I thought I was the only one who wanted his car looking stock
Cheers
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Yes they fit if anyone's interested.
They consume 3.1 amps on low speed (series) and 14.5 amps on high speed (parallel) with an input of 13.8 volts. The shroud has about 2cm gap on the driver side (I'll pop into clark rubber to seal it) and its pretty much spot on the passenger side. It moves a shitload of air!
I'm making an Atmel microcontroller (because I want to learn something other than PIC) to control the fans based on water temp, speed, AC and whatever else I can think of. In the meantime I've just got a three relay setup for on/off and low/high speed.
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I want to know exactly what temperature the water is, not "somewhere between 65 and 110 degrees" while the needle sits in one spot in the middle.
Before I pull it apart to try fix it, has anyone modified the water temperature gauge to eliminate the inbuilt normalization?
what a f**king hassle for a guage that still isn't going to tell you the engine temppro tip: defi make good gauges
my water gauge tells me exactly what temperature it is always
Thanks for your input. Keep being totally awesome.
thats real nifty! Should write up a tutorial on how to do this modification.
Although, anyone not knowing the modification has been done will be freaking out that it sitting just above the Cold indicator haha.
My car cruises on 78-84deg so it would be hovering just above the C mark haha
Cars cold start switches at 65degrees, so the gauge wont reflect that as it wont move after 75deg.
Besides one person before I did the mod, I didn't think anyone wanted it, seems people like adding gauges and shit to their interior. I'll summarize:
I pulled the gauge apart, drew a circuit diagram, bypassed the normalization electronics and then put it back together.
Next, I pulled out the temp sender, put it in a small pot and covered it in vegetable oil (coz water boils at 100 deg) and put it on the stove. I heated it and measured the temp vs resistance as it was cooling down (to get a more accurate reading) and plotted a graph - compared to the R32 factory manual, my sender was reading low by about 15%. I then used a 10w variable resistor to simulate temperature and modified the electronics to read what I wanted as minimum and maximum. Put it together and all is sweet
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Done - I removed the normalization electronics and calibrated the gauge so it accurately tells me the engine temp. The gauge is linear however the NTC temp sender is logarithmic so higher temps are accurately displayed which suits me perfectly.
Before modifying the gauge, while bench testing the sender and dashboard temp gauge, it begins moving from C when the engine temp is at 45 degrees, hits the middle at 60 degrees, stays in the middle until 110 degrees and reaches the H marker at 130 degrees.
Going from top to bottom
H - 105 deg
--- 100 deg
- 95 deg
--- 90 deg
- 85 deg
--- 80 deg
C - 75 deg
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I was thinking more along the lines of mounting an aftermarket gauge behind the dash, then connecting the factory needle to the a/m one.
Ahh yep, makes sense.
I'll do that if I can't modify the factory motor that drives the temp needle. I'd prefer to keep it since it fits properly for illumination, max and min stops are in the right spot etc.
Cheers
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Yep, know about reading and tuning via the Consult port, however I'd prefer the factory gauge to work properly without the addition of aftermarket products that I think look out of place.
Cheers
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I want to know exactly what temperature the water is, not "somewhere between 65 and 110 degrees" while the needle sits in one spot in the middle.
Before I pull it apart to try fix it, has anyone modified the water temperature gauge to eliminate the inbuilt normalization?
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I was there in my little silver S2000 carving up the feild. It was ok, but i found the number of cars on the track to be a bit frustrating.
did any get any shots of my S2K, also my mate in his black one?
cheers.
This is all I got mate
Cheers
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is it a consistent half way pedal feel? is it normal when it gets to half way?
try adjusting the brake pedal pushrod that goes into the master cylinder, i had to do this on my old s13 to get the pedal working correctly
Hey,
That's exactly how it feels but in my case, it's not the pushrod:
When I manually energize any of the three ABS servo solenoids and the fluid return motor, the pedal goes rock solid and can't be moved at all. This means the master cylinder is perfect and it's not firewall flex. It's ABS servo or the calipers have gone softThere is air in the system somewhere, I just can't figure out where. That's one of the reasons I'm pulling down the ABS unit and learning about how it works.
I've emailed NipponDenso to see if they'll give me any info on the unit although I dont think they'll reply.
Cheers
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Hi
You seem the type of person that wants to do it for the challenge; if you need a back up plan I have one in good working order for sale.
Regards Taylor
0408 188 777
Bit late unfortunately - I picked one up in good working order for $25 a few weeks ago and it's in my car now.
Thanks for the offer
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ps. dont do this
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Once you pull the body apart, you seperate the high pressure seals between the solenoids and machined aluminium upper and lower bodies. You wont get it to seal again without replacing the seals. Unfortunately, the bottom seal shape appears to be made of unobtanium and you'll have no hope of getting it back together, sealed, without replacing it.
Work on a spare like I am.
Cheers
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Hmm, when I went to school they were hydraulic.
Liquids, gasses, stop being so fussy
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Hey,
While its apart, I'm trying to draw a 3D exploded view of it in sketchup - there is absolutely no information on the interwebs about how this particular NipponDenso ABS unit operates.
I'm 90% sure the solenoids have three modes (build, maintain, release) instead of just two modes since there are three in/outlets (two at the top, one at the bottom) but I need to establish how to trigger them out of circuit. When time permits I'll hook up my digital storage CRO to two of the ABS solenoids and see how the ABS controller drives them. Google told me that some Toyota's use three mode solenoids but I can't find any pictures of them to see if the solenoids are the same or not. Then I'll be able to build a controller circuit to trigger and bleed the ABS modulator properly.
I dont think the ABS unit is difficult, just very time consuming and you have to triple check everything. I took photos at every step of disassembly so I shouldn't have dramas reassembling it. The only thing slowing me down now is lack of time
Differences Between R33 And R34 Rb26 Engines?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
What are the differences in the bare engines, eg block, pistons, rods, heads, cams, crank, oiling etc.
Can one handle more power than the other? Is one stronger or less likely to fail?