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Mr Jollwah

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Posts posted by Mr Jollwah

  1. Std dwell is around 2ms, which will most likely be ok for the larger LSx coils. i was going to do this but was put off with the actual mounting of the coils. Was going to put them in the valley between cam covers but the TB makes this difficult to do neatly. Wiring info already posted should be ample to get the job done, i was going to leave the std cap in place and simply ground the black wire at the mounting brackets.

    here's some info on dwell time for LS1 coils.

    http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/54641-lsx-coil-testing/page__st__20

    So the ones listed on ebay in the us there not a genuine gm coil are they? Just figured if your gonna get them might as well get the real deal instead of a cheaper knockoff.

    If they are genuine then f**k me there cheap, so much cheaper then any decent replacement coils, well worth the hassles of mounting and wiring.

    Still cant decide on whether to run these of just get yellow jackets, kinda running out of time before my tune, so kinda need to make a decision asap pinch.gif

    One issus i have noticed is the dwell time on the coils, i'm guessing you'll need to adjust it via the ecu as it has to be set to around 5ms, not to sure what a standard rb coil's dwell time is?

  2. got a question for ya's

    i have a type 4 daughter board in my r34.

    I know that the daughter board has its own EEPROM that we can change the values in while tuning in nistune software. And the original ECU's EEPROM stays unchanged, we just tell the ECU to read from our new EEPROM. Is this correct?

    If this is correct, could i tune my car on pump fuel 98, then take the hex file from the daughter board's EEPROM and burn it into the original ECU's EEPROM, then re-tune the daughter board as usual on e85 fuel? then i just have to run a couple of switch wires from the jumper pins on the original ECU to the dash and i have instant capability to drive on either fuel.

    But is it even possible to burn a new image into the original ECU?

    and can anyone see any major flaws in my idea?

    Nah that wouldn't work, Just have the laptop handy.

  3. I remember this was something I was going to do when my coils gave up, still havent tho.

    IIRC there are pins A,B,C,D

    A = Black, Ground

    B = Brown, Reference low (ground this one also)

    C = Different colors on each connector, (Ignition signal from ecu)

    D = Pink, Power in (+12V)

    I was going to ground Black wires at the coil mount and the Brown wires through the original coil grounds.

    For the ignition signal wires, these are the wires that go to the ignitor from the ecu. You don't use the ignitor with LS1 coils!

  4. I dont stick weld very well at all, I have to guess what the filler is doing due to the slag hiding the weld.

    Bah, MMAW is easy, you just need to know where to look while welding. I watch the weld puddle at the end of the electrode, if you have the correct current settings for the material and electrode and maintain a nice short arc length. The rest takes care of itself!

  5. Hi,

    I was wondering if anyone could tell me , from a picture of my car, which silver it is..

    I saw on the sticky;

    BNR34

    TV2 - Bayside Blue

    QM1 - White

    KR4 - Sonic Silver

    KV2 - Athlete Silver

    GV1 - Black Pearl

    AR2 - Active Red

    EV1 - Lightning Yellow

    LV4 - Midnight Purple II

    LX0 - Midnight Purple III

    WV2 - Sparkling Silver

    QX1 - White Pearl

    EY0 - Silica Breath

    JW0 - Millennium Jade

    KYO - R34 Z-Tune Special Silver

    There are a few silvers in there and i am not sure which one mine is, does it say anywhere on the car?

    Cos yeah i need to get a new front guard that has better ground clearance and i would obviously like to be sure about the colour.

    (pics attached, or in my 'garage')

    Sam

    Look on the build plate, mate. Seems to bright for sonic silver tho.

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