gez

Ok, this is where it gets more interesting, there wasnt a thermostat in the car when i got it from Japan......It aint doing the car much good coz when it gets too hot the Power FC goes into a correction made and fires the injectors at 100% in order to cool the engine down little to prevent detonation. Gerry

If the Rad is leaking how comes the temp guage in the dash stays pretty much normal??? Cheers Gerry

Hiya mate, I bought the car as it is. From the looks of things it has std turbos which may have steel internals, Intercooler doesnt have any signs of a make on there but it looks like a Trust unit, it has 260 degree cams. I took it to GTART (uk meachnic) to have the car mapped and it got 467bhp at the crank @ 0.9 bar and 95RON petrol. We later tried 1.2bar boost and got 505bhp but the injectors were going mad so we aborted the 1.2bar map. We later noticed that the car didnt have a thermostat which was weird. We have now also noticed that the rad pressure cap is dodgy as it leaks every time someone lays a finger on it when its hot so it looks like its not holding pressure. It seems that the car was running high bhp back in japan as a load of bits have been taken off like the uprated rad, load of guages and turbos. I dont really fancy running 90deg intake temp as the engine will just go pop so need to fix it as the car does drive really nice. Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers Gez

Hi guys, MY R33 has been with my mechanic for the past month trying to solve a mystery of why the injectors have been hitting 100% duty cycle after 6500rpm. We tried everything including a new ecu etc etc. While my mechanic took it for a drive on a really hot day approx 33 degrees he noticed that the intake temps shown on the power fc commnader were going ballistic and hitting 90 degrees which sounds pretty destructive. From that he has sussed out why the njectors go mad. It seems the Power Fc reverts to a correction map high up the RPM range to prevent detonation. We are now stuck to why the inlet temps are going mad. Intercooler is fine, etc the only things being wrong are the rad cap being dodgy and leaking at high temps. He said that it may have something to do with it but im not sp sure. Anyone got any ideas???? Any help appreciated. Cheers Gez

Hi mario, Idealy i want to be running approx 700bhp. The engine covered 45000 miles in japan with some good power. All the signs are there like the cams, catch tank, twin plate clutch, straight through exhaust, trust twin intake intercooler, hard pipe kit, hks induction kit and (i think) modified turbos. Gary of GTART in the UK mapped the Power FC and it got 460bhp (not at the wheels) on 95RON juice. I have covered approx 2000miles since it got here and on a couple of occasions the Power FC triggered the Knock warning light on the dash so i dont know how much shock the crank has taken but that was at about 6.5k rpm standing start in a drag race. I think the Power FC showed 90 on the Knock Monitor feature which isnt too good. Getting a bit side tracked here lol. Is it a good idea to get the crank nitrided?

Hi guys, Im playing around with the idea of getting my bottom end rebuilt with forged Jun Pistons and Rods. I would go for the full stroker kit but it is a bit tooo expensive. If i kept eh standard crank would it be able to take a good pounding with high booost pressures or am i better off just going for a stroker kit? Im aiming for about 650 -700 bhp. Cheers Gerry