Quigga

Ah thankyou thankyou thats exactly wat i was looking for, VN ones not VL would be the go the ignitor isnt really an issue yet Like before ill do a writeup with photos when i do it

unbolt the zuast from closest place to turbo (after dump before cat would be best nothing in the system but pipe) run the car see if it feels the same, take off the snorkel or watever infront of the turbo and give it a visual inspection (check blades ect) have u got a tuneable ecu or anything (has it reset) best way to work out a problem is by excluding the possiblities good luck Quigga

seen this kinda thing before, melted cat baffle/muffler/resonator = zuast blocked and poo results also if ur using a bleed type bc they tend to drop boost out at higher rpms

thanks for ideas but to keep to a tried and true type msg, also running fairly stock so adjusting recharge wont really be a major issue, so ill just use rb ignighter and VL coils, ill do a lil writeup after as well to help ppl in my situation later on

as far as i know the pinouts are the same its just the ecu itself thats different p.s welcome to the s13 rb20DET club

easier and quicker way is to take of ur negative terminal on the battery then hold down the brake peddle for about 1min (this just drains all remaining power out of the system) then put the negitive terminal back on, turn the car on and let it run for about 2mins on idle (this is auto adjust it as far as it can with stock limitations). This isnt gonna solve ur problem but it should help Quigga

lol thats my question

shouldnt be because of making the airbox, all that would do is increase efficentcy a.k.a cooler air better combustion..... u may be getting a little boost spike due to the cold air but it shouldnt be much on stock boost, hence u can rule out boost cut.... make sure u havent damaged the afm or the plug/lead around the area

is there a ignighter thats cheap and easy to substitute maybe even the vl one?

http://www.boostcruising.com/forums/index....howtopic=226144 full tutorial i got it workin ive posted on this site but waiting for it to clear

bump

cheers for response i have hooked up the negatives like that have now changed afm to the way u stated cheers green_13 still no avail

it was the first thing i tried but yet nothing hence posting here

Hey guys before i get the flamings saying USE THE SEARCH BUTTON i have! here and throughout the net to no avail, IT WONT TURN ON Before u ask i used vehicle specific diagram 14a nissan - skyline - rb20det first of all im leaning towards the fact my safc is 2nd had and may be broken due to it not turning on but i saw somthing in the guide that made me think otherwise (skylines being an ecception but i think it reffers to gtr rb26dett) anyway ive wired to wat it should be BUT the yellow and white (afm input/output) which isnt made in the pinout it just shows the afm cable so (help plz on what it needs to be wired to) even though they are not wired the power and ground's are and it wont turn on when i put the ignition on? there are some other wires that are not doin anything either which i was assuming is normal (for rsm and itc maybe?) please help THANKS QUIGGA

ITS COILS.... The boost is "blowing out" the spark on the plugs hence the cutting, it was dynod at 119kw with it doing this so ill post new dyno sheet when it is fixed with spitfire coilpacks thanks for the suggestions guys quigga

here ya go straight outa the manual

firstly it was doing it running 6-7 with 9 spikes, so its not factory airmass cut why ditch the fuel reg? the point of it is to stop fuel surge and keep it at a consistant fuel pressure

bump, update in first post

As stated i need a rb radiator, the ca18det one just cant handle the rb pm or call me on 0431114230

thanks for all replys ive changed plugs used 3 different types with all gapping specified, ive replaced fuel filter. Im very sure it could be coils not the plugs, as stated there old skool and it has been intermitant. Early in the morning when its REALLY cold i get no misfire, but during the day its haggard. Electrial laws say add heat to electrics and efficentcy goes way down. Im going to a good friend of mine and throw it on the dyno to see wat rpm its doing it and how the a/f ratio looks, hes gonna recheck the timing, test teh coils. Ill keep everyone informed when i get results>>>>> p.s feel free to offer more suggestions Thanks Quigga

ino its not limit because it wil stutter or watever and then go upto rev limit cant be plug gaps i have iridiums(no gapping as the are preset) havent put a fuel pressure gauge on just wondering about aftermarket fuel reg cause arent theyadjustable yea stock boost 6-7 spiking to 9ish

*********FINAL EDIT***** been dynod at 119kw, it is definatly coilpacks, at full bost its blowing out the spark so by increasing boost it was just doing it faster!!! hope this helps people in the futre, will post up new dyno sheet when i get my spitfire coils Heya guys i have a rb20det outa a r32 in my onevia, ive got basic mods FMIC with custom coolerpiping (vee port bov if that helps?), 3 inch highflow zaust, aftermarket fuel pressure reg (i think is the culprit), walbro pump and pod. ive just finnished the conversion and i took it for a bit of a power run down the highway and i was boosting it felt fine, and when i got up around 5-6k revs (not sure tacho isnt wired yet) it would start to miss a little like it was ignition cutting. BUT if i put in the clutch and revd it i could go all the way to rev limiter no worries..... Im thinking its fuel pressure reg cause ive never used one before, and it was already on the engine when i did the conversion. But i could be wrong, it idles fine and doesnt sound like theres any engine damage so its bizarre. I have an Apexi S-AFC which isnt wired yet but if its a fuel ratio issue i will thanks quigga *EDIT* thinking it may be a boost issue, it only happens when boosting..... ive uped the boost and it only happens at full bost now? prev i was running stock and it would do it at 8-9psi now it does it at 13-14psi but not at 9 ???? any more suggestions

ok um do you know if an 1989 s13 k's looks the same, because that looks like the one on the engine donar car ive bought, i just dont wanna be pulling it off for nothing and cant drive it cause no engine

can anyone post up some photos of r32 rb20det diffs or tell me key points on them eg. heat sink fins, sump location, ect. thanks Quigga

Ive just finished a RB20det convesion in my sil and ive started the rb and the powersteering pump pulley is bent so looking for replacement. will buy whole pump if cheap because it doesnt have to work as i dont need the pump please pm or call/sms 0431114230