Jump to content
SAU Community

Delta

Members
  • Posts

    4
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Delta's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

  • First Post
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Well I'm not sure what state your in or what engineer you used, but I've seen a couple eng'd and it didn't take that long, nor was it a painful process. Mark is an older bloke (sorry no offense intended) which means they generally look more kindly upon the car. Especially here in WA. The car was still SA reg'd so it could have been driven in the mean time, so I'm not seeing what a wait of a couple of months would have changed, unless there was something unregisterable about the car, or perhaps something that needed reasonable money spent, hence the reason i asked the question. While Mark has made a few questionable decisions of late its up to him how he spends his money, thats all well and good, I just thought I'de ask what the thought process was, and if there was anything that was glaringly out of place on the car or going to cost lots of money. Also since I have not recently (as in in the last 6 months) seen a car go to engineering I thought it would be interesting to see what the engineer said about the car etc. Mark has moved on now, and is back in one of the best things he ever bought. Though I'm sure after driving a skyline he will buy one oneday
  2. Its a shame you couldn't get it rego'd, what were the main concerns that the engineer had btw? I'm not surprised it wouldn't just go straight over, but surely it could have been engineered fairly easily??
  3. I made max boost at 1600rpm BEFORE my cam change, now I make max boost when the cam comes on (its a lot more driveable but its laggy compared to instant boost) 7000rpm isn't crazy at all, I'm not sure where max power is on my falcon, the bottom end is stock and 280,000k's old with a self imposed rev limit of 6000rpm, so for the moment thats where peak power is. Ford fans are not all afriad of revs, or for that matter a bunch of bogan morons (tho we have a few of course). I make about 3-5psi from 1800rpm now, and when the cam comes into range its just swings instantly to max boost, which if you have your foot flat just equals wheelspin and bouncing off the limiter in ANY gear at pretty much any speed. I've driven plenty of modded skylines, and some of them are reasonably quick, but mine and my mates early model falcons (1500kg not 1800kg like the BA-) you really have to have a ride in to believe, the amount of torque available is ridiculous. The only import I've been in that comes close was an S13 with an RB30/25 hybrib shoehorned in the front with a GT30/40 - now THAT had serious torque everywhere.
  4. I posted some of those comments (but not all haha) and I've signed up to have a look around, and to defend myself a little. Mark bought an eastern states car (the 600rwhp turbo falcon) and was having problems both rego wise and reliability wise. I myself own an earlier model falcon that has been turbocharged and I've wasted a few modified R34 GTR's, plenty of wrx's and gtst's (look were all biased ) I suppose you have to take our comments in perspective. Mark is once again buying a car from out of state that is higly modded and may be hard to rego. Also were used to cars that have torque everywhere and in my case have basically no turbo lag. Before my latest cam I had peak torque at 1800rpm and full boost at 1600rpm, with a 700hp roller turbo. So to us 3200rpm is a DAMN long time to wait, hence I would call it laggy (although by no means would it be in reality, I'm under no illusion as to how laggy a skyline motor CAN be with the wrong turbo and a 600roller is a pretty good compromise. I've seen quite a few R33's over here with that turbo (and I must admit from the pic I thought it was the slightly smaller verison) the 600 roller tends to make a maximum of 320rwkw, I've seen that figure or close to it on 3 skylines with built motors, one running 22psi, one running 25psi (crazy - they made the same power at 21psi but kept winding it up looking for more) and one made it at 18psi (cams, port work, 8000rpm limiter) so my comments are not foolish and I DO know what I'm on about. You DO have to admit that worked cars break stuff, no matter how well you spend your money or what on, once you start making over 200hp/L things are highly stressed and it only takes a small thing to really break something badly. Hence the reason I told him it would be better to buy the faster standard car. You yourself are upgrading to an EVO, and like I said there are only two reasons for selling a highly modded car. 1. Because something is broken or about to be 2. Because you want to trade up, because trading up to a faster stock car means less mods (and hence hopefully more reliability) for the same speed of car. So you fall under cat 2. Which is fine, its a genuine reason to sell, but you can't deny that an EVO or a GTR is a better base to start with, and thats what I was pointing out to him, nothing more nothing less. Its a nice car, and its great that you've built it up to this extent. But in my opinion (and I'm not Mark obviously) it would be too hard to rego here, and its just better to start with the better base, but to each there own.
×
×
  • Create New...