usmair
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Posts posted by usmair
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Couple of comments:
The 8685 is laggy. You will definitely feel the difference between a 7685.
With a manual don't expect anything to really happen before 6,000rpm. You'll probably need to rev to 9,000 to get the most out of the 8685.
I've had friends with 8685 and a Samsonos, 3.2 and it is still laggy/doughy.
I've had both 8685 and the 8085 and there is certainly a noticeable difference between the two. The 8085 does make slightly more power but my convertor doesn't want to show it....
If it's roll racing then you will need to ride the fk out the clutch to get it on. Make sure you have something that will cop the punishment otherwise you'll get left behind. The direct clutches 9 inch what everyone in Sydney is using and that is taking the punishment. Everyone in Sydney is now using gas to help get out of the hole too. You might need nos.
I don't know how long the track is at Perth but you'd want to be comfortable that you have enough track to really use the hp from the 8685.
If your main focus is drags and RR where the extra power can be used the go the 8685. There is no chance of putting down 1500hp on the street (not to mention that it is dumb!).
If you want an all rounder then you may wish to rethink the 7685.
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On 03/07/2023 at 4:38 PM, Predator1 said:
I'm guessing this is so your oil temps come up? Or is it coolant temps as well? Do you run oil coolers? What temps do you start driving yours at, and what grade oil?
Oil temp to come up
Coolant temps to come up
Oil pressure to come down
20w60 oil
I'll start driving once oil temp and pressure are within parameters
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51 minutes ago, Butters said:
Stock bottom end from 1990 , makes high 700s wheel. Starts up, takes kids to school weekly for the last 4 years.
Sure I don't get on it, but that is nuts to do on the street these days anyhow. Go roll racing for that.
Gives me a smile though before i have to face the horror that is working
Yeah I miss my stock bottom end sometimes
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1 hour ago, Butters said:
I don't think anyone says you can't drive it on street. It's HOW streetable and that is always going to come down to what a person wants and circumstances.
12min for me is a garage full of e85 fumes, or roller door up whilst drivers by gawk at my other cars. Plus I have young kids which I am often escaping from whilst they sleep. Then the neighbors, one across the road has a lambo, who idles for 10min before driving, he's had the council called on him from other neighbors.
So if i was living the dream on an acre property and separate shed from house, probably have a billet block already and cheerish the 12mins of listening to my car idle whilst my brain soaks some e85.
But you would have the same issue with a prepped built cast block? Surely you would warm up anything making decent power to its operating temps before driving it.
Before going billet, I did the same with my cast Block and that took around 10mins anyway.
Billet has actually made the car quiter somehow as well.
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3 hours ago, Piggaz said:
Surely if someone can warrant a billet block, the idea of that car being a daily driver is long gone. It’s a toy that’s taken out when you want. It can still be a street car. 🤷♂️
Correct, its a 1000hp+ roll racing / weekender.
600hp stock bottom end different story.
But even with a cast, 4 digit power levels built motors, you would want to spend a similar amount of time to warm your car up and get it on temp.
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Billets are sick.
12 mins mine takes from dead cold to be able to drive.
Just start it and go back inside wash your face, brush your teeth, get ready and it'll be good to go.
Lighter, stronger, newer.
Anyone who says you can't drive it on the street is talking nonsense.
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thanks admins
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On 12/07/2022 at 4:14 PM, PranK said:
All done.
Thank you.
Is there a delay perhaps as I can still see them...?
Happy to report them again if you like?
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On 12/07/2022 at 12:21 PM, Duncan said:
Hi mate, confirming we have the reports and will get to them as soon as one of the (volunteer) admins gets a chance
Great. Thank you
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Admins
I have reported some of my historical posts to be deleted as it contains my personal information.
Can someone please confirm these requests have been received? And the posts are in the process of being deleted.
thank you
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A friend had a G35-1050 an RB30. Made 840hp and could not push further due to back pressure. They appear to be better suited to an Rb26
Switched to a 6875 and has made over 1000hp. That's peak power only for a few RPMs, call it 950hp for most of the top end rev range.
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they sit really well. i thought id need spacers
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On 29/12/2021 at 10:29 PM, Shoota_77 said:
Picked up my wheels on the way back from Sydney today. OMFG they're fu(#in stunning! I'm in love with an inanimate object...
Photos DO NOT do them justice, they look so much better in person. 😍😍
Can't wait to get them on the car even without boots just to get a feel for how they will look.
The guy you bought them off must be a top bloke 😉
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On 09/06/2021 at 9:05 PM, ido09s said:
was going to ay the same thing lol who could be bothered dragging a GTR out of the garage to go get milk lol
I used to take mine to the gym all the time, then out for a coffee at the local shops.
Will definitely be doing it again when it's back on the road
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What's the hypergear equivalent of a gtx3071?
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On 09/06/2021 at 1:26 PM, mugiwara no luffy said:
Hey guys got tired of reading I got to page 100+ though around where the guy with the Supra with the nitrous.
so my build rb30/26 with 9280 1.05 ar
built head, cams are gsc s2
built block with 9.1
on e85 and haltech/motec haven’t decided which one. So is there finally a verdict on a 9280 test on how much power it’ll put down?
how much bar/psi can I run?
Im a circuit guy and I don’t really care about drag/ power so long as I get some bad ass lap times but, could I reach 1000 whp on an American dyno?
A 9274 with 1.45 rear has made 1000hp in Australia on a hub dyno so you should have a pretty good shot at it
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7 hours ago, reaper said:
Yep the Malas brothers have had a good run with theirs and it does get driven.
They have also changed the oil as regularly as every 100km's in it and are pedantic about oil and water being up to temp before any kind of revs (which is a good thing) which I am sure does help.
That being said I have no intention of ever putting one in a street car
Not exactly feasible to warm up the car for 10 min in order to pop around to the shops or the gym
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On 05/05/2021 at 6:53 AM, reaper said:
I think a 6870 could be a good match for a 2.8 with vcam and you'd probably be all in under 5. Keen to see someone try it though.
Nothing wrong wit a 6466, its a perfect street turbo imo just doesn't have the legs of the bigger cars.doesnt one of the dahtone cars have setup? 2.8 + vcam + something
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8 minutes ago, r32-25t said:
It’s an American dyno, they make 500 with stock turbos and injectors
In UK, they using American setting too?
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RB30 + 9180 + Sequential
955bhp ... must be engine hp as he has 1000cc injectors and one pump so that implies 98 fuel... surely not atw right?
Goes hard but doesn't seem to be that much faster than mine
These guys do some silly stuff on public roads
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I don't think the head is a major restriction as your setup is pretty similar to mine - my head is not ported and has baby drop in cams with basic springs/retainers.
It just means you need more boost to make the power.
Did JEM tune your car?
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what the heck is an emap
From 7685 to 8685
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
OS quad won't survive riding the clutch at 1500hp. Not as much as the Sydney boys do anyway.
If you need 1000hp then you don't need an 8685. It's a 1400hp turbo. The 7685 is more than enough for 1000-1200hp.