niran
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Posts posted by niran
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get a 1 or 1.5 way, there is plenty of info on the net about how they work. 2 way = drift diff,
drift diff not the best for the street.
Hey dude
Yep i read up a few docs the reason i posted it was because some people say the 2way isn’t as bad as people think they are and that if you know how to drive with that diff correctly its not too much of an issue
cheers
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I have one.
I use my car as a daily. You get a few odd looks and your neighbours think your ripping a skid when your turning around etc, but other than that its fine.
Cant help in regards to branding as im not 100% what mine is. (came out of a car imported from japan that hadnt been to compliance yet)
hey man!
how have you been?
Thanks for the info, is it a pain when it comes to parking in a shopping centre or something?
Cheers, ni
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Hey every one
Just wanted a bit of input.. im thinking of buying a cusco 2 way diff for my car, i use my car as a daily to go to uni but at the same time do a fair bit of AHG/RAC track days.. Im also looking into attending some Barbagallo events from next year.
Ive read on the forums a bit and found out that the Nismo 2way is the smoothest and quietest, followed by the cusco, which is followed then by the Kaaz 2 way..
I wanted to know if any one on here uses a 2way in a daily driven car, also what they think of the Cusco 2ways compared to all the other diffs out there? and finally am i going to have a lot of issues/problems by installing a diff like this on an every day car?
cheers guys, Ni
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sounds like maybe you wired it the wrong way round.
Sensor to 12v instead of the other way round or something?
best you can do is recheck ur wiring, where did u get the 12v source from? where are u grounding it to?Hey guys
All sorted now, the power was connected the right way and so was the ground..found out that the problem was my ground of my gauge needed to be grounded to the same ground as my sensor.
Thanks for your help,
Ni
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Hey everyone
i brought some Autogauge smoked series gauges a few days ago and today i installed the water temp gauge, the wiring was as normal. Red wire = 12v source, black wire = ground, blue wire = water sensor.
I did all this an then at the same time i used a liquid sealant on my sensor so it could ground properly as the tape causes ground issues..
I took it for a drive temps read fine, it sit’s around 82-86 degrees, BUT when i turn my indicator on, brake, turn my headlights on (anything which consumes power) my gauge needle goes up with the more appliances i am using power for.
has any one had this issue? or does anybody know what may be my problem..
Also the light that lights up the gauge itself doesn’t go dim or bright, it stays the same just the needle jumps up and down (if i turn the indicators on)
any help appreciated..
Thanks, ni
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Your plates = 1CPUXXX? Nice car.
I was parked in that car park
. Just at the far end of it.Got quotes this morning:
Advantage: $800
Alpha One: $500
No waiting times luckily. Should get it sorted in the next couple of days.
hey man
yep that’s the plates haha, thanks dude
.. your car also looks sweet i think i was driving past you once and you was coming the other way..that’s good to hear there’s no waiting time, have it done soon. hope all goes well with it man
tc
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oh man! i go to curtin to
sorry to hear about your car theirs a few retards in Curtin who seem to get jealous to see a nice import,i also agree that there are so many people in curtin who cant park... i always try to find a parking spot next to another skyline or a jap car.
if your class's arnt to far try park at the basket ball court as building 501 is really close to the car park.
hope ya get your car fixed real soon man
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ok i will try 2 do all of those things. but this what the car dose it pulls out good but when i hit around the 5000 rpm's it its hiting a fuel or a boost cut i dont know what it is
and it missfires sometimes it sound like pop pop pop and the rpm drops too 0 and the car turns off some times.
hey bro if you mean its hell loud pops and your car starts to jerk i had the same problem and mine was the crank angle sensor plug had a broken clip and had come of slightly and wasn’t making full connection
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i am useing a series 2 ecu on a series 1 engine u guys think that could be the problem? and my maf is the rb20det one form the old engine?
hey man
not to sure, but do you mean AFM? not maf? anyways that could be one problem, secondly try plugging in a S1 ecu, i dont see the point of having a s2 ecu if you dont have a Series 2 motor..
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Sounds like you need to adjust/reduce the duty a few % in the 5k rpm range
Because as you say the learn gear was on and it would have changed the boost map.
hey man
yep i turned of learn gear and put the duty down a bit, i think it was my SAFC that was the problem
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(it kind of sounded like it was hitting a fuel cut or some limp mode)
fuel cut is a big bang (some times) and a sudden loss of power
i doubt it was this
i think you would have been hearing abit of missing (pop pop pop)
if this is the case get your self some new spark plugs gap them to 0.8mm (or buy them pre-gaped)
wind you boost back up!
if it goes pop pop pop again, you have two options.
keep you boost low enough so it doesn't miss
OR
get your self some new coil packs
i use splitfire but there are a few brands most have been covered so do a search.
hey man, ah good to know it wasn’t a fuel cut then.. and yer i had changed my spark plugs recently so that wasn’t the problem either, however i found out it was my SAFC so all is good
hey i have the same problem with my car its a r32 gtst with the rb25det cant cant find out the problem. if u can help me thx.hey man, for me it ended up being my SAFC that was set up wrong so i used my friends SAFC settings with the SAME mods as my car, and now the car runs great and it reads the proper way by the fuel/air ratio % actually increasing instead of the other way around..
Good luck man, Ni
Good luck man, Ni
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heyy
pm sent with my details
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if your car is only lightly tuned it wont need much correction
i agree, however isnt my SAFC reading the wrong way? as in its going from a high value to a low? shouldnt it be low to high or do you mean that the tune itself was poor and they just made it have a high value at the start and didnt do anything towards the end?
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hey everyone
A few days ago i thought i would try find out what’s with my SAFC 2 as the Air/fuel % seemed a bit off...my car on Idle it reads 5% air/fuel, when i put my foot down it decreases until its at full boost were the SAFC displays 0.3%..
Today i spoke to another sky aus member who has a SAFC installed in hes car also and hes SAFC on idle sits at about 1% then increases the more you open the throttle..
I also then came home and did some searching and watched a few YouTube videos and realised all off them sit at about 1% then increase as the fuel/air is increased when the throttle is opened..
Does anybody have ANY idea what could be the problem with mine and why its going the wrong way??
Why it bothers me is that it was tuned at a respectable tuner in WA..
Please help
Cheers, Niran
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hey guys i found a cruise
if any one else is interested there is a cruise tonight and its hosted by antilag..
is any one else from here thinking of coming?
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hey every one
As the title states just wondering if there is any cruises on tonight
Cheers,ni
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Hey man
if you check the safc wiring guide you should be able to find that..
anyways to answer your question you cut the original ecu wire and then put bullets of some sort on either end (so if you ever remove the safc you can re-connect the original wire.. anyway then make two bullet clips for the safc in/out wires.. connect the IN wire to the cut wire that goes to the engine, then connect the OUT safc wire to the other side of the wire that was cut, this is the wire that goes toward the Ecu side.
However please double check this as i dont want to be held responsible for anything.. as i wired mine a while ago so my memory is a bit fuzzy..
Good luck, ni
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if you got your car tuned on a dyno it should be running good, first point of call i would consult the guy who tuned it.
secondly it sounds like u need to read into how to use the AVCR a little as i think you have your gain/duty set wrong to help you achieve target boost properly.
hey man, yer just downloaded the pdf for the AVCR now
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Hey everyone
Well i had a tune a while back on my car using an Safc/avcr and when i drive it and hit full boost it shows my boost hits 0.77 bar and goes all the way up to 0.90 bar, yesterday i was bored so just scrolled through the settings and noticed learn gear was on so i disabled it, as I’ve heard learn gear causes the boost to change a bit and doesn’t give constant boost? Secondly i went into my boost/duty cycle menu on my avcr and the boost was set on 0.75 bar, so i thought ill try put it to 0.8 bar.. then i took it for a drive, when i full boost it held at 0.8bar but when i hit about 5000rpm it went to 0.90 bar and it kind of sounded like it was hitting a fuel cut or some limp mode on the stock ecu so i stopped straight away.
i wound it back to 0.75 and again noticed it holds at 0.75-0.77 bar under 5000rpm then it reaches 0.88 bar above 5000rpm ( i set my avcr so it shows the highest number)..
Later on i was driving home and i had a query as i have a Apexi Safc 2 also. i noticed my fuel/air ratio on idle is at 5.8%, when i start spooling and hit boost under 5000rpm stays at approx 0.9% after 5000rpm or upper area of the rpm range it goes to 0.1%..
To help a bit more my car is a R32 gtst with the following:
Rb25det S2 engine conversion
Stock turbo
Stock ecu
Stock injectors
Straight through exhaust
Pod
R32 Gtr fuel pump
Apexi AVCR
Apexi SAFC
I just have a few questions first being is my car leaning out? Secondly if so could it be because of the R32 gtr pump or another issue?, does anyone know if having VCT can throw off the AVCR that much?
Thanks guys
Ni
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now its time to sort out your windscreen wipers haha
Haha!! yer that is next
I've found most will speed up the flashing due to the lack of current draw from the blown globe..agreed
Thanks again guys for the input
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hey guys
Thanks for all the help its sorted now
, it was the flasher unit indeed. -
hey bud do u mean its not flashing or the indicator is not cancelling if its just solid(not flashing) high chance is the flasher relay should be able to get a generic one from a repco store
hey man soz as in when i flick it on, it stays on so i guess its not cancelling as it just stays on solid as if it was like parker lights when you flick the switch..
Awesome i will try repco first
Cheers
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I don’t mind the rain at all however i am a bit cautious and also leave a good gap from the car in front of me....loosing traction shouldn’t be a problem.. more the fact as already stated if you put your foot down, or hit boost in 1,2, 3 ish your most likely just going to get wheel spin.. well in my car anyways.
Defiantly do a wet day at AHG so you get use to controlling and don’t panic in case it does tend to kick out a bit.
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hey everyone
just have a quick question..a few days ago while i was driving i realised my indicator lights when i flick them on they seem to stay on and don’t acutally indicate on and off. I’ve read a few posts on here and done a search most people seem to have a problem with the indicator light staying on when they turn the head light on.
In my case the headlights don’t affect it so it’s not a ground/shorting out problem. I listened and failed to hear that clicking noise come from under my dash.. So i pulled my relay out, before i go buy one would anyone be able to confirm with me that it is the relay that has died?
Also where would be the best place to buy/find one? i was thinking Nissan themselves?
Thanks, Ni
.. your car also looks sweet i think i was driving past you once and you was coming the other way..
2 Way Diff
in Western Australia
Posted
Hey Greg
Oh awesome thanks alot for the help. All good bro i know how much your skyline means to you, i wouldnt want to take it for a drive and then loose control or anything
Cheers, ni