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R34Gtt4dr

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Posts posted by R34Gtt4dr

  1. Well Done Wally,

    I wouldn't be too keen to do that myself, I'd probably be stuck in reversve forever if I tried it!

    Anyway, I get mine back on Tuesday, the kit took 2 1/2 weeks to get here from Japan, but everything else is done and waiting on them, new torque converter, new kevlar bands, new valve body (stage 2 shift again) and the new solenoids when they get here. Hopefully it feels like the bucks were well spent!

    Cheers

    Dylan

    2 1/2 WEEEEEEKS HEY???, r u serious?

    call any Nissan dealer and ask them for the (solenoid shift kit) and how long will it take to get it delivered and they will tell u the next day

    i ordered it on wednesday 23/07 i recived it at my work place on thursday 24/07 around 1pm ....

    Dylan, how many Ks have ur car done so far? and wat power figures does it have?

  2. HI ALL

    I'm sure u are all waiting for this

    I HAVE DONE IT and it works 100%

    it's a common problem with auto turbo r34s wen they reach close to 70k, depending on how they have been driven

    first i got it checked with a diognostic hand held computer it came up with (solenoid A and B faulty/short circuit)

    so I ordered da (Solenoid Shift Kit) from my nissan dealer, $404.5 AUD delivered

    10mil socket set and 1 big packet and a lonely nite under the car it was all done hehe

    *get all the oil out 1st then drop the Sump then move of the wires aside and then the funn part is droping the control body valve and after that is done u will find the Solenoids on top ur control valve assy , take them off replace then with the new solenoid kit

    and remember how to put everything back together the u pulled it out... not easy but im glad it's done and that i did it my self better than gettin over a $1k bill from the mechanic were it cost me $450 incl new oil, or may be a rebuild were its not needed,

    Note : it's good idea to take 1 of the battery terminals out while u r replacing the solenoids, that will reset all the codes and that way u won't get fulse warning!!

    here is some pics and more details

    pic 1 its wen i took the sump off and with some wires still on the bottom of the control valve

    Pic 2 is wen i got the control valve out and u can see on da right the 4 solenoids mounted on top ( note the springs on the left are not in the right places the small spring sits on top front )

    pic 3 it's a pic of then gear box after i took the control body valve off the car (see the holes are on the top of the pic)

    wen u drop the control valve assy and the springs jump off and u don't know where they go take each spring and see which hole the will go in with out forcing them in that will give u an indication to where they actually go.

    pic 4 here u can see where the springs go ( left in this pic ) as r putting the control valve back on after replaced the solenoid kit

    pic 5 Very important make sure u watch out for that shaft that is coming out the control valve and connects to the shifter, if it's connected right u will be able to see the shaft move as u move it from D to R and P

    if any1 have any question i 'd be happy to help

    cheerz

    Wally

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  3. Item: Im selling my New Blitz Sbc and power meter.

    D1 spec Limited edition version.

    can do so much with it, can give u 0 to 100, 200, 300 and 400m/s

    power figures and set different boost levels for each gear.

    ***top product***

    Condition: as good as new, never used it

    Price: $620 for both units

    To Fit: (What car) any car with a Turbo

    Location: Sydney

    selling due to not using them *they have been sitting in my room for about 8months*

    Was going to put in my other car but sold it, and my new 1 already has 1 :banana:

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