2KR34

Thanks Guys, Like my dear departed Old Man used to say "it aint hard to sell anything, you just have to keep dropping the price till someone buys it!" I'll start dropping the price and eventually someone will buy it! First price drop from 8,500 to 7,900 Still negotiable! Mark.

Make: Nissan Model: S13 Silvia Milage: 170,000 Transmission:Auto Colour: Pearl White Location: Gold Coast Complied? Yes RWC supplied? Yes Currently registered? Yes Price: $6,500 Neg Contact: PM or post here! Comments / Modifications: Images: OK guys I'm keeping the R34 so have to sell the Silvia so this is just a copy of my Ad on a carsale site but you guys will know better than me what these cars are worth so let me know what you recon it's worth. Up for sale is my 1992 Auto S13 SR20DE Naturally aspirated (NON-Turbo) Silvia "Q" This car is in very good condition and well above the average condition that most of these cars are in. Car has always been regularly serviced whilst owned by us. It is very original with the addition of a Clarion CD player and Sony Xplode 6" 3 ways in the front and 6 x 9" 3 ways in the rear. Speakers are mounted behind original speaker grilles to avoid attracting thieves but Xplode covers come with the sale. Sound system is also wired for Sub and amp but NOTE NO sub or amp is included in this sale. It has the Australian Standard immobiliser, remote central locking, power steering and electric windows. Air Conditioning blows cold and was serviced recently. [/size]It has factory alloys which I have JUST fitted 4 brand NEW GT radial tires to and I have also just fitted a Genuine Nissan radiator overflow bottle. (See how many Silvias have a new one of those) [/size]Paint is a pearl white and in good condition. Rego is short but I will either negotiate the price accordingly or add 6 months. Payment by CASH only. I MAY consider a trade of a pre-1970 Australian Ute or wagon, adjustment either way. Please only contact me if you are genuinely in the market and have your finance arranged. Price is negotiable. If you have a strict budget then let me know and I'll let you know whether it's worth further inquiries. A quick easy sale will get the best deal. Check out the pics and contact me for any further information.

Nice Monaro! Probably not practical due to distance but let me know if you're interested in dealing with my R34 (see link) and we'll worry about that then. If not then good luck with the sale. Mark. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/20...to-t213515.html

Still available as no serious offers!

Bump

I was selling this for my son but I bought it from him so is no longer for sale!

Thanks Beau, Not sure when it was complianced but I do know a few guys that do or did compliancing and know that they don't always do all of the stuff that is required so better to assume that they have not been done recently. Will get the filters and oil this weekend and have received the consult cable so will hook er up and see if there is any fault history. Mark.

Thanks Beau, I'll get some fresh oil and filters into her just in case as we don't have any history as only recently bought from dealer. I've got a consult cable and datascan software on the way so will check for recent fault codes. Glad to see that the 100k service is done as timing belts and bits can be time consuming and exy to do. Thanks again, Mark

Unless you have an independent witness there is very little you can do if he denies responsibility. Cops may help with identification and if he's a nice guy he may offer to pay. If he won't admit fault then best you can do is try to convince your insurer that he was to blame and maybe they'll allow a no fault claim but don't bet on it. I had a similar situation years ago and the damage was significant but after about a year of back and forth BS I gave up.

Thanks for taking the time, Much appreciated.

Hi Guys, I need to establish if a R34 has had the correct services especialy the 100k service. I was hoping that someone would be kind enough to translate these service stickers. Any help will be much appreciated, Mark.

Thanks again for your replies guys, Would likely be playing CD's most of the time but have a bunch of single MP3 tracks as some albums are not worth buying if there's only 1 or 2 tracks that apeal so for those I have MP3's. Will do more research!!!!

I just bought a pack of 10 stainless including the key for $17 at a bolt/fastener shop. Took a few shops before I found them. The ones I'm using are for a R34 stock mounting points and are M6 25mm long. They don't need to be that long but the longer they are the longer it takes to get em off. Couldn't find them at the usual hardware's or even at some of the bolt shops. Brand is Endevour security fasteners.

Thanks for your reply Matt, I've taken on board all you have said so my plan would be to get a pair of splits for the front, some 2 way co-ax's for the rear and a 4 Ch amp. Due to change of one car and an additional 2nd car I am putting 2 systems together and I already have Kenwood subs in factory enclosures and two 2 ch amps. (currently used for driving the subs). So to avoid buying 2 new amps would it be practical to use the current 2 separate amps to drive (1 front splits) and (2 the sub) and then buy another 4 Ch amp for the second car?? And would it be necessary to buy a head unit with RCA stereo plus sub out (3 outputs) or would the front splits be driven from the speaker outputs? I've also been looking at sound deadening material and it appears quite expensive so keeping my original post in mind would it be economical and beneficial using these basic components? Thanks.

Hi Guys, I'm considering options for a system for a couple of cars at the moment and as part of my research I have been reading posts here and on other forums re quality systems. Of course I know that sound quality is dependant on the music being listened to and personal preferences. Now I consider myself as somewhat of an audiophile but doubt that a huge outlay is beneficial when ambient road and car driveline noise is taken into consideration. I've had some fantastic systems demonstrated to me in cars whilst parked and was hugely impressed but once mobile most of the subtleties were lost to the engine and outside traffic noise. So my question is if not looking for bragging rites and not interested in buying from boutique audio sellers why wouldn't a basic system provide a good sounding and economical system which will not invite thieves due to some way expensive gear on show. What I consider a basic system would be something like: Sony/Pioneer/Kenwood MP3/WMA/CD/aux in RCA out 40wRmsx4 Head unit around $250, Sony/Pioneer/Kenwood 6.5" 3 or 4 way door & parcel shelf, around $100 per pair, Sony/Pioneer/Kenwood 12" sub 300watt nom (100watt Rms?) around $100, Sony/Pioneer/Kenwood 300 Watt Nom (100Watt Rms) sub amp. around $200. I have put a few systems in such as this but with 6 x 9's in the parcel shelf and the sound has been in my opinion good for the outlay. I know that you get what you pay for but I want to be realistic and don't consider a 5% improvement for a 150% price difference value for money. So what do you guys think?

Think of the bearing and crank journal like a brake disc and pads, the bearing and journal will wear in some places unevenly thus will have lows and highs on both the journal and bearing surfaces, the perfect job is to machine the journals perfectly flat and use new bearings giving a uniform mating surface which gives maximum strength and oil distribution. If you have the crank out of the block then you may as well have it measured and likely linished which will return the flat surface if only slightly out so new bearings would be the go. If the wear is uneven or below limits then they will recommend grinding the crank and then you will need oversized bearings to make up for the undersized crank journal. Your machine shop will give you the advise and may be able to supply the bearings. Good luck with the rebuild, Mark.

Sorry I don't have first hand knowledge about your particular model but I'd try a couple of other windscreen places as it may be that they are just too lazy to carefully remove the old moulding. Not absolutely positive that this is the case but at $250 it's worth a couple of more calls.

Hi Guys, My son's recently bought 2000 R34 GT-T sedan came with a puny second hand battery but I want to get a new quality replacement. The battery finders of most manufacturers only list a 1990 on, being a NS40ZL or ZLX which are only 330 CCA so I just wanted to check if this is OK. Thanks in advance for any help, Mark.

Thanks again Chris for your reply, I am only concerned about the "Chirp" when switching the alarm on or off. I don't need a pager. I just want to be able to exit the car, lock it with the remote and have the alarm activate at the same time as locking the car but with no "chirp" and then when returning to the car unlock with the remote again with no chirp but when triggered by an unauthorized entry or significant movement the siren would sound as usual. From reading the description of the Mongoose M60 series car alarm with dual zone microwave sensor as listed in your website I believe that that alarm would give good basic security but I just need to know if it will Chirp when switched on/off and if you consider this a reasonable choice. You list is as $395 so if you recommend it what would installation cost be and roughly how long would it take to fit as I would have to come up from the Gold Coast and would need to wait for it. Alternatively do you have a workshop or affiliate on the Coast. Thanks again for you time and assistance, Mark.

Hi Guys, My son has just bought a 2k R34 gt-t sedan and I have bought his Silvia and I was planning on buying the PLMS interface cable and Nissan datascan software to use on both cars. Has anyone used these products and how user friendly are they? I have been building NA engines on my early cars for years but am a newbie when it comes to FI and Turbo cars so will I be able to use this setup. I'm mainly concerned with basic maintenance such as reading and re-setting fault codes but no doubt once familiar with the system will be doing tweaking as well. Any advise or suggestions from those familiar with this software will be much appreciated. Mark.

Thanks Guys, Chris, I know that this is something that is only limited by your bank balance but as with all things budget is a concern. I would want a basic but quality system and installation and not knowing too much about current systems I would think that features such as the Mongoose M60 as seen on your site should give good basic security. I would want a system that can be set to silent arming, that is, would flash only, as the car is often parked in the early hours of the morning and chirping would no doubt leave us unpopular with the neighbors. I would also want a variable sensitivity control as to avoid triggers every time someone walks past the car in a parking lot etc. I'm presuming that modern systems would have these features but assumption is often a big mistake. I'm open to suggestion so any help is appreciated. Mark.

Thanks for the response guys, As you both replied to both my posts I'll respond to both issues in this one. I'm on the Gold Coast. The key remote appears to be irrelevant as I will fit an immobilizer which will likely come with new remotes anyway. I will have a word with the dealer that we bought the car from as if it's a compliance issue I may suggest that they contribute to the cost of an immobilizer before I inquire at Qld Transport about the RAW that did the compliance! I know that an alarm is a major deterrent but I absolutely hate them as any that I have had in the past have always gone off regularly in high winds or for other false alarms and my heart just can't take that sort of stress so really am only interested in a good immobilizer. Any suggestions? Mark.

Hi Guys, We've jut bought a 2000 R34 but only got one key remote and a spare standard key but would like to get an additional key remote for a spare. Anyone know of where we can get one. Thanks in advance, Mark.

Hi Guys' We have just bought a 2000 4 door R34 GT-T and the insurance is dependant on an Aust standard immobilizer (I am told Aus Standard requires 2 points of immobilization). So does this car come with a factory fitted immobilizer and if so does it operate on the 2 circuits or do I need to fit an aftermarket immobilizer? Thanks, Mark.