Paulpen

Hmmmmm interesting ! Haltech, vipec, links, autronic and motec are very rarely used over here so finding someone capable of using them could be an issue ! The main things used over here are Power fc and emanage. Some less used things inclue Link, f-con and omex. There is also a tuner that does a stage 1 chip Bear in mind I know nothing about any of the systems ivel isted other than the names

I understand it all now Is power fc the only way or will something like e-manage be as good ? I only ask as power fc costs about twice as much as e-manage here

Thankyou for the informative post Its nice to see something like that after have 2 topics here in the UK which are both 3 pages long Is there anyway that a FPR could help my situation before going to mapping ? And also how would an EBC help my situation with the boost curve ? Or did you mean a boost controller in general to up it a bit ? Ta again

Seeing as there is a great deal of knowledge on here I may get some fresh ideas Ever since fitting my FMIC ive been having missfire issues. Originally I gapped my plugs down a bit and seemed to make it a bit better so though it was coil packs playing up so went to new plugs and a wasted spark kit. Went out today for a long run to see when it does it so here goes : Idle is fine Low rpm is worst but no proble if very light throttle Mid range is almost ok but full throttle causes a slight misfire vibration High rpm is the best but can still tell its there slightly on full throttle Here are my rr graphs on another topic : Graphs That was done with the FMIC fitted. The only thing that has been changed since those graphs is the wasted spark kit and plugs. Is it possible the overfuelling is causing the issue ?

Over there - yes Over here - no

That will be what we call a turbo elbow then

Awesome Its nice to get an answer with reasoning behind it ! That would explain the power dip, torque dip and afr reading going to shit around 4000rpm then as thats when it goes over 6.5psi of boost ??! So I assume I should be looking at getting the following next : Downpipe Turbo elbow Boost controller Engine management I say assume as the wording over there seems different to over here so dont really know what you mean by dump pipe

First of all - hello there from England I was wondering if the great knowledge of SAU would be able to give me a hand with my dyno graphs as im not really in the know on them Its a RB25DET engine in a 200SX and only has a few mods (decat, cat back exhaust, air filter, fuel pump and fmic). Here are the graphs Some people have said its overfuelling and to turn the boost up to lean it out and others say they are all like that and its how it should run Ive also heard that the boost graph is a bit odd as it goes up rather than down at the end Can anyone shed some light on this ?

Hi everyone im looking for a bit of advice for a friend with a R32 GTR. Last week he went for a drive and then parked it up outside his house and everying seemed normal. He then went to start it 2 days later after some rain and it will just crank and wont fire. Ive had a look at many things so here is the list done so far : Checked for an alarm / immob etc and non fitted. Checked all fuses under bonnet and dashboard. Checked all plugs are connected on the engine. The fuel pump can be heard to prime and if taking the pipe off after the filter it flies out there. Took the plugs out and they were dry after alot of cranking which was odd so checked the wiring to the injectors. Think they are all getting 12v so guess they are switched to earth by the ECU ? Checked the wiring at the main coil pack loom (3pin) and the coil packs and they have 12v and earth and im guessing the other wire is the ECU switch ? After that I unbolted the CAS and slowly turned it by hand with the ignition on expecting to head both the spark pugs and injectors fire but nothing other than what I can only describe as a "whoosh" noise that I believe to be fuel moving under the inlet. Does anyone have any ideas on what it can be or have anything else I can try as it would be very much appreciated ?

Coll - many thanks

Ahhhhh So if im not running air con or speed sensitive powesteering can I run correctly with it disconnected ? Many thanks by the way

Does anyone know where the yellow wire from the purple plug go ? I think the red plug is the AAC but the purple one I dont know. Many thanks in advance

Well the RB25 is in the S13 so sorting the final niggles now First of all im not getting a 12v feed to this grey wire which is the feed for the injectors. Followed it back to the passenger side and it ends. Where does it connect to normally ? Secondly the same problem with this white wire for the coil packs I think. Difference is that it seems to go where it is meant to (blue 4 pin relay next to the ECU) :confused: Finally where does the yellow wire from the purple plug go ? and what does that sensore do / called ? Many thanks in advance from the always helpfull bunch

Update time then ! Tried covering half the rad with cardboard to see what happens. Same as it was at idle but when driving the needle went about 2mm high on the gauge. Then took the sensor off my CA18 that just came out and put that in and bingo - all SEEMS to work ok now. Not sure wether to be confused and cautious or just happy and forget about it now ! Will get the leccy thermostat at work out tomorrow - wheres the best place to check it ?

The fans are adjustable from about 70 - 120 degrees centigrade - its currently set in roughly the middle. The engine is still standard and running a standard series 1 ECU. England btw As for the ECU temp sensor - is there any reading / test I can do to know the temps at hot and cold so I have something to go by to get the correct operating temperature ?

Here goes. RB25DET in a S13 with a Revotec electric fan sender in the top hose and 306 HDi fans. If I leave the car to idle then it will warm up nicely, the needle will sit in the middle of the gauge and the fans will cut in - happy days your thinking ! When I drive it though the needle goes right down and I do mean right down - below the bottom mark. Also the top rad hose always seems to be hotter than the bottom one - is this right ? Its got a brand new Nissan thermostat in and is not loosing coolant from what I can tell. Have tried bleeding the system when hot and cold via the 10mm bolt on top of the inlet but still the same. Has anyone else had this problem or have any ideas what it could be ? Im starting to think there is a blockage or that the gauge sender is faulty but how can I test these along with the temp sender to the ecu ? Pleaseeeeeeeeeeee