Shadex

Guys seriously, if $1200 is too much.. Put lower offers in.. :S I haven't had any offers.. Witch is weird cause these rims looks really good..

you have a pm

Amp Sub and Wires sold pending payment. Price drop on Rims $1200 ONO

Bumpidee Bump

No one else has a opinion?

Price drop on rims to $1300 ONO Price drop on Amp+Sub $350 ONO I Also have some 2x 215/55/17 tyres for sale with about 90% tread left... Looking for about $180 for them. And a 205/55/16 with roughly 85% tread... $50 ono. If you think the price is to high don't hesitate to throw some reasonable offers around. Cmon guys i need this stuff gone

Because my rear sus atm is shot, and i need the car to be reliable.. My fronts are pretty hard as it is.. but also i cant get enough money for a full set for agers...

Im looking to get some rear coilovers for my car, Now i have been speaking to a few people and everyone you talk to has a different opinion... Im only want to pay around $700-$800 for rears. I have been looking at ISC and HSD coilovers.. Now i have heard good things and bad things about ISC.. But not really anything about HSD. Does anyone have any good advice on what to do in this situation lol.. Thanks in advance

The ones on the rims now are Kumho But the other 2 ill throw in are Bridgestone.

Yeah mate, Still for sale.. As i said looking for around 1400.. But im pretty lenient cause i need to get rid of this stuff.

Sorry, Forgot location... 5051, South Australia. But not really willing to separate.. Depending on the offer i guess But yea it is a mono.

No offers at all?

First of all The sub and amp package. 800 Watt RMS Amp [ Pioneer ] 1000 Watt 12" Sub in box [ Sony ] Comes with 8 gauge(From memory) amp wiring kit worth $95. Wikid set up, Made my neighbors windows shake O_O Looking for around $400 ONO And Secondly my wheels. Full set of Genuine ROH Mantis Chrome wheels, 2 Tyres have 80% tread the other 2 have around 50% 235/45/17 No gutter rash or scratches, These rims are in great condition. Will also through in 2 Bridgestone Potenza's free of charge both with 70% tread. Also 235/45/17. Looking for around $1400 ONO

No interest?

Item: Genuine ROH Chrome Mantis Rims Age: 12 months. Condition: Immaculate, No Gutter/Scuff marks. Price: 1500 ONO To Fit: (What car) 5x114.3 Tyres ( 235/45/17 ) Location: South Australia Comments: Front tyres are great but the rears aren't so good, I am also unsure off the offset but they did come off a Magna. Also come with x2 3mm/ x2 5mm spacers.

They overhauled the Master and slave, And there fine now. Then went over the whole hydraulic system and made sure nothing was leaking or faulty. But i took it to the place where i borght my clutch from today and from what they guy told me, Hes saying that when it was put in it wasn't adjusted correctly, Therefore it was not releasing 100% and it was wearing away the clutch plate with just normal driving, So eventually once i had let it bed in and put it under more pressure i started to notice the signs more and more. I mean it makes sense but we will know 100% once its out.

Try tightening your wheels pretty dam tight, And if u have bolt on spacers take your wheels off make sure there really tight and then put your wheels back on and tighten them right up. I had the same problem and took it to Tyre power they where clueless to what it was, they tightened the wheels and i left.. listened.. no clicking.. so i was happy.. But when i turn i get it a little coming from my front end but i think that could be just cause my front bolt ons aren't tight.

Ok, Got my car back today. $420 later nothings changed.. Still grinds as it goes in to 2nd and 3rd and still slips if its clutch kicked.. Also tryed something else, dropped the clutch in first and then shifted to second, and it just grinded and then soon as it went in i dropped the clutch and it just slipped like crazy.. But now its making a loud sound coming from the box when it starts to slip if that helps. Does anyone have any ideas left? Because everyone i ask is fresh out of them. ( Please don't take this as me looking like a hoon just doing burnouts, Im testing the clutch kick on private property, not public street roads ) The main reason i bough such a tuff clutch is because i want to take it to Mallala, And now this ones slipping to.

Did you install the clutch yourself or did you get a workshop to do it for you? I Friend of mine did it, he had done one before also. His on SAU as Matty T i think. When the clutch was replaced did you just replace the clutch plate or was it a whole kit with pressure plate and new thrust bearing? It was a whole kit. Did you have the flywheel machined? Yes What was the condition of the rear main seal, slave and master cylinder? Well i got the results back today, they told me it didn't come up to bad nothing was really to wrong with it, But they did find a hose that may have been blocking the fluid from coming though. So there replacing that also. (To give you an idea i replaced my rear main seal, slave cylinder and overhauled my master cylinder with all genuine Nissan items when i replaced my clutch.) Was the correct grade of grease used on all appropriate greasing points? I'm guessing so, As i said i didn't do it. Was the clutch fluid bled when it was replaced? I'm guessing so, As i said i didn't do it. I was talking to the mechanic today, He said if we have replaced all this and checked over everything in the hydro system, At least that's checked off the list.. Lol..

FloydWestWood : I originally was going to do that, But i got told there's no point in it because my peddle high isn't moving so there shouldn't be air in the lines. BezerkR32 : I wasn't "grilling " anyone's opinion mate, I was just simply saying what the facts were, I came here to get other peoples opinions and if there going to say its driver error im not going to just sit there and take it. I'm looking for mechanically failure not driver failure And also thanks for your help. I should be finding out tomorrow if its the master or not. So if it isn't i shall consider other options.

Well that is all well and good for you to think that But i don't ride the clutch. When i change gears with the 6 puk clutch i don't just dump the clutch every gear change but i certainly don't ride it. The reason my other clutch went is because it would get hot during a hills run. So when i borght the car, it was obliviously on its way out. But thanks for your imput bud.

Well, I only went with a ceramic 6 puk, because i was sick of having mine slip. But i never got told that mine was going to be over kill. And i really doubt that i would be "Overkill" because how can you have a clutch that's too good so it slips?

Anyone else got any ideas on what the problem could be?

Because, The last clutch i had was organic and it melted. I got suggested from alot of people to go with a ceramic clutch because i plain on having more then 180kw.....

Yeah, id rather get someone that knows 100% ( I hope ) of what there doing then me try change it myself lol. But if its not this im going to be really annoyed. Does anyone know where i can get new clutch master cylinders from?