colossus
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Posts posted by colossus
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Isn't the new GTR an auto only? Yeah they call the trans some fancy name but still an auto in the end yes (as in no foot operated clutch or conventional gearstick)
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Guys car is now running real bad:
Idle is steady but you can feel/hear a bad miss both at idle and on a very light throttle. YOu can feel with your hands on the steering wheel that its very rough and just by touching the side of the car at idle you can feel the bad miss.
Also sounds like a metallic tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine interspaced by loud audible click noises which sound electrical in nature.
Last night put in new spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm and did the silicone trick with my factory coilpacks. Made no difference.
Any advice on what to try next - Iv'e double checked the install for lose wires/hoses, was going to clean the AAC this weekend, check the timing and do a test for vaccum leaks.????
Strangest thing happened last night - car was cold, pulled out of the driveway and accelerated down the road, backed off the accelerator and got a massive Psshhttttt blow off sound. Car is an auto and does not have a blow off valve (apart from the factory item). Is this related in some way? Would the symptoms of a leaking/loose intercooler pipe/s match those of mine described in my last post? I have checked connections and the hose clamps are tight but due to the ill fitting nature of the kit pipes are kind of angled into the silicone joiners - I wonder if air is escaping...so many possibilities.
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When there are approved and supported traders here on the forum
Why would you risk it to save a few dollars?
Hardly seems viable.
Ebay = too risky for performance
Happy to be corrected but the problem is none of the SAU traders offer a split dump/front pipe for the R34...
That link the OP posted dosnt work but I'll assume its the one on ebay for $400? Just Jap offer a variety of dump/front pipes (not split) for $200 so is it really worth a doubling of the price just to get a split pipe? To me its not...
Choice R34 owners seem to have is fairly limited...
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Guys car is now running real bad:
Idle is steady but you can feel/hear a bad miss both at idle and on a very light throttle. YOu can feel with your hands on the steering wheel that its very rough and just by touching the side of the car at idle you can feel the bad miss.
Also sounds like a metallic tapping/knocking noise coming from the engine interspaced by loud audible click noises which sound electrical in nature.
Last night put in new spark plugs gapped to 0.8mm and did the silicone trick with my factory coilpacks. Made no difference.
Any advice on what to try next - Iv'e double checked the install for lose wires/hoses, was going to clean the AAC this weekend, check the timing and do a test for vaccum leaks.????
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Temp still fine but half way to work the car lost power and the "SLIP" and engine light came on. Pulled into a servo, restarted it and no warning lights. Drove it again for 3 minutes then car lost power for a few seconds (felt like running on 3 cylinders) and the SLIP and engine light on again.
great.
After searching around on here the common problem people have when these lights is coilpacks. However I just find it strangley suspicious this happens 3 days after installing the FMIC...
By the way I plumbed the p/s pump into a random manifold hose as my aftermarket intercooler pipe didnt have a nipple - I wonder if this is causing the issue.
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Temp still fine but half way to work the car lost power and the "SLIP" and engine light came on. Pulled into a servo, restarted it and no warning lights. Drove it again for 3 minutes then car lost power for a few seconds (felt like running on 3 cylinders) and the SLIP and engine light on again.
great.
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what fmic kit is that, and where did you get it from? that fitment looks pretty tacky to me, or maybe it wasn't installed properly. most fmic kits will require you to cut a couple millimeter from the fan blades, if that.
most skyline temp guages sit on half if the cooling system is healthy. there hasn't been a fmic install that has affected the radiator flow bad enough to cause engine temps to rise and i wouldn't say it would affect much now that you've cut a majority of the fan blades.
i'll say as nismoid did to watch your temps during summer. especially when idling or in traffic, as this is when your engine fans are most likely to come on. if it poses as a problem in the future you can always upgrade to ford/holden twin thermos which are pretty cheap and pretty much bolt on or you can go with aftermarket kits.
cheers,
dave.
Not sure on the brand - I bought it second hand (off a forum member) but it had never been fitted. The guy claims he bought it from Just Jap in Kirrawee, though the instructions that came with it had Autobarn printed on the top.
After 4 trips to work and back in medium-heavy traffic, temp still hasnt gone over half way but then again it is winter...
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Just need the fan only (the one that runs off the engine). For a 98 R34 GTT.
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Hate to say it but thats a horrid kit, or its the install.
To cut THAT much off the blades, didnt you think something was wrong?
If you had to trim just the edges, no problem but thats like a fair chunk of the main arc swing...
I'd be watching your temps etc through summer dude with great care
Well I wasnt sure how much was acceptable to cut off the blades never having done it before - I read the forums and people mention cutting fan blades all the time so I just assumed it was fine - until of course I got to the point where it was 3am and I needed the car the next day so just kept cutting to get them to stop hitting....
I think if I get a longer silicone joiner (at the point where the pipe under the water bottle meets the return pipe) I can move the pipe up an inch or two. Guess I will start searching for a second hand radiator fan to replace that one. Will one from an R33 bolt straight on?
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Engine showing pipe:
Cut fan blades:
Finished product:
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Cheers guys I will post a pic up of the install so you can see how much I had to cut.
Everthing else went smooth - no cutting of the rebar or any structual metal just had to trim the back of the front bar, holesaw under the water bottle and cut the radiator fan (this was the most frustrating bit). I didnt really have the right tools - i.e. only cutting implement I had was a pen knife - and it was my first time at having a go at a FMIC install. How does 16 hours sound lol - my neighbours probably thought me strange for sitting on my front lawn at 3am with a pen knife cutting a front bar...
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Guys installed a FMIC onto my R34 over the weekend - in order for the piping to clear the radiator I had to "Trim" the fanblades. After many attempts we had to basically chop about 40% (kind of a scallop shape) off each blade off to get the blades to stop hitting the pipe.
Firstly is this normal? - and secondly how do people find the cooling of the car (as in engine temps) after cutting fan blades? My temp gauge basically sat on the halfway mark for the drive to work this morning but it was light traffic and cold today...I cant remember what it used to sit on before the FMIC...
Also not sure if this is a dumb question, but wouldnt the fan now be off balance too?
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BUMP - I now have this same problem - I dont want to screw a nipple into the intercooler pipe. The nipple on the stock IC pipe goed to the power steering pump - can you just use a t-piece onto any vac line going into the intake manifold instead?
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will it run auto trans?
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Damn I'm 28 and embaressed to be reading the comments of most of you guys. I completley agree with Scathing. IMO experience is the number one factor making you a decent driver (roadcraft is not about ability to speed from A to B) - not just driving experience but life experience in general. Every 17-22 year old thinks they know everything........you dont know squat. Grow up.
I have never had an accident in 12 years of high performance cars and bikes - its not simply due to any sort of ability but attitude/awareness of conditions plays a major part. Ride a bike in Sydney peak hour traffic daily for over 5 years without putting it down once and you'll get my respect. That is all.
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might get a new O2 sensor I think, but apparently those aren't cheap (was quoted $150-200)
You can get a universal O2 sensor for $60 off ebay but you have to crimp the wires in to the factory wires. I bought one but havnt hooked it up yet. Another member on here has done it sucessfuly with his R34.
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Anyone had a go at installing one themselves and want to share? Difficulty level?
I recently had my trans serviced (ATF flushed and replaced) so dont want to fork out all that money again....argh.
I have access to a hydrolic hoist, all the right tools ect.
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Have you checked your trans fluid level? There is a dipstick in the engine bay (right up the back in the centre).
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if u have ur tcs on, then what ur car is doing is normal...probaly when ur gearing down ur rear wheels are spinning, so traction control does its job and kicks in, limiting power and making the car feel dead for a few seconds...
turn tcs off and u well no longer have this issue...
Exactly - drive any modern car with a TCS system - they all flash when they intervene. Its normal.
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If your still stuck PM me - I have the ECU diagram at home.
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Look up "Automatic Transmission shift kit" in the group buy section, then ring Mike at MV Automatics and order one.
Yep read all the threads on the MV valve body - it certainly sounds good.
A few things putting me off. Firstly is the problem described above - I want to know if this is something wrong with the box as I dont want to go spending money on a shift kit when that money may be better spent on fixing whatever is wrong with the box (if indeed anything is wrong at all). I.e. it hasnt always done this, its only recently started flaring - so trying to determine if the symptons described above are a result of A) the auto service (maybe they used wrong fluid or did something else wrong), B) more power (boost, exhaust done) or C) Something mechanically wrong with the box.
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R34 automatic gear surround?
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Thanks guys,
A Tank is 35L and after doing some tests in the old commodore and with the same driving patterns over a certain time mobil came out the victor yet to do this in the skyline.
I have the a question concerning fuel gauge in the 34, from full to 3/4 its nearly the whole tank in fuel is the gauge gone or is that the case.
1/2 to empty is around 10L
R34 fuel tank is 65L. So if your only putting in 35L you still have 20L sitting in the tank! Fuel light does come on fairly early in these cars....
Ave consumption for an R34GTT seems to be 14L/100kms for city driving (thats what Im getting anyway).
17" Black Wheels With Tyres.
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
have you got pics of the damage?