meet07
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Posts posted by meet07
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I always knew that the lift and duration are different on all cams but what matters is the gap between the cams and the lifters right?? I've heard about people installing rb26 cams into an rb20 and swapping the s1 cams with the s2 cams.
Neo cams have higher lift so good to keep. For most cars swapping the CAS type just involves reversing the wiring so I would have thought it possible to make it work even with your aftermarket ecu.
I know I could do that. I would hope that what ever flaw that the s1 CAS has might be corrected in the NEO cas....
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Besides mega squirt what other stand alones are out there that uses the crank trigger system?
If I don't convert my standalone then I guess I have to stay with the series 1 huh??
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I have or had a series 1 rb25det in my 240sx. I have s-tec manifold, borg warner s366 turbo with all the basic supporting mods like intake manifold, AEM EMS and exhaust. I messed the motor up and now I'm searching for a replacement.
The NEO rb25's are getting pretty cheap over here in the states so I am considering converting over. I read on SAU about the neo motor being an all around better foundation than the basic rb25det. Having the solid lifters, rb26 rods and vct makes me want to upgrade this go around. Everything I have will swap right over including the wiring harness. I'm using GM coil packs and the sensors that are required for the AEM like the IAT and MAP.
If you are using the AEM EMS then it is required to swap out the CAS oem disk with the new one that AEM sells. This disk works only with the series 1 CAS. I've been doing tons of research and I can't find anyone that has used the AEM ems with a rb25det series 2 or neo with the black plastic CAS.
So I was thinking if need be I could install the neo RB25det engine and just convert the neo cams with the series 1 cams in order to use the series 1 cas.
-Is this possible??
-Will the AEM EMS work with the NEO CAS?
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Update....I went ahead and called the machine shop that orginally did the 5 angle valve job for me...Didnt want to since I blamed them for my 1st rebuilt engine going to shit. Talked to the head guy at the machine shop Frank and he told me that maybe enough material wasnt taken off the top of the valve causeing the lifter to not be able to bleed down....So I dropped it of earlier this week and hopefully they found a mistake...
stay tuned..
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Yeah I have started her up a few times a week and have been tryng to drive it around the neighborhood and down the street about 2 times a week....I think im just gonna take it to the tuner and let that shop tell me whether in good or not..Just spoke with them yesterday at the track. The shop owner has a 9 second Supra that is daily driven.
what abut valve guides?? could that also be an issue? They where not replaced at my 80,000 mile rebuild but the valve stem seals where.
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Im running the BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 1.1 Remember I have the gm truck coil packs that put out a lot of juice so I really dont know if I need to open up the gap more but its whatever. I had the guy at the machine shop that put my block together to come over to my house and take a listen. He said the noise was the lifters and that the bottom end sounds good. He recommended some stuff for noisy lifters that Liqui Moly makes. Bought 2 cans, poured it in and it was a little quiter but still not to my liking. So since this noise has been heard in the same spot (cylinder 6) and no matter how many times Ive bleed the lifters, cleaned and mixed around the noise isnt the lifters. So what else in the valve train would probably make that tapping noise? What about the valve springs....Are the exhaust and intake springs the same? Could the retainer be up side down? Could one or 2 springs have a crack in them that is hard to see with the naked eye....Im ready to fix this and ride!!
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Check the valve clearances again now with the new valve in. Use a stethascope or long screw driver and try to find if the noise is in the top end or bottom end
I checked the clearances between the cam and lifters again and there is no way that the thinest feeler gauge (.073mm) is gonna fit in there.....When I used the stethascope last time the noise sounded like it came from both sides on cyliner 6 intake and exhaust....What about the piston touching the oil squirter? Is that a possibility. Ive checked this head,lifters and cams 3 times now with the same results...I dont think the problem is the head anymore. Ive bleed lifters,swapped lifters and the whole nine....
what in the bottom end could result in this....Im considering taking it to a performace shop of choice and forking out the extra doe to get it fixed.
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disconnected the coil packs and nothing changed?
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Disconnect the coilpack on the suspect cylinder and see if the noise is gone,
So did u remove the head and fit a new valve?
I will disconnect the coil pack again and see if it changes anything. Yes I removed the head to fit a used vavle. I seated the valve and installed and while doing so checked out the cylinder walls. Guess I should have removed that piston/rod assembly to inspect. But I was certain that it was that bad lifter..Guess I was wrong...
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If your rod is knocking, that could mean that the piston won't be moving perfectly up and down the cylinder bore. Maybe get a worm camera and feed it through the spark plug hole and have a look around the bores see if they still look fine. Ive heard rod knock, its not a nice sound. This doesn't sound as brutal as rod knock, but at the same time abit harsh for lifter noise.
I had the cylinder head off and had to replace the piston in cylinder #1. In the process I checked out the cylinder in #6 and didnt find any wear on the cylinder walls....So I suspected that everything was square and that the problem was that stuck lifter...Guess I was wrong?
what about loose ring or overbored to much? Like I said the sound comes on after the engine is warm. Assuming it the metals heating up maybe...
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since the last time I was up here I broke a valve. A single exhaust valve on cylinder #6. I had to purchase a used head to swap out the broken valve.... After taking them all apart I found a lifter that when compressed would not pop back out so I replaced. Hoping that all was well I put everything back together after and what do I hear...the same noise. Now I think it is coming from the bottom end....
So whats next???
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how much shipped to the states mate...? USA
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Not an exhaust leak is it?
yeah no exhaust leak...lol
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Its about a 4mm spacer for the cas. lol made that mistake when I was 18!
Use a stethascope or long screwdriver to try and pinpoint where the noise is coming from...
Definetly intake side under the valve cover cylinders 5 and 6, possibly exhaust side as well on cylinder 6
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I had that exact same noise when i rebuilded my engine. I told my mechanic to check the timing again if its not that to pull the engine apart again, not sure what he did though but a week later the engine was running fine and no problems 2 years later now. I'll give him a call and ask what he did. I didnt have to pay a lot extra so i dont think he pulled the engine apart again.
Hey mate I would really appreciate it f you did that....
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I forgot to run spacer on my cas to once killed it in 5 min lol, it started grinding against the cam gear.
Yeah and the motor has been running for more than 5 minutes so no cas issues....I would hate for that to go b/c its would be rather hard and expensive to replace that mate...lol
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a while ago i hear a very similar sound on friends SR that was rebuilt, turned out to be the gudgen pin i think thats how its spelt? found out after the piston went through the head
That gudgen pin was in place. Wiseco has a "C" clip on both sides that keeps it secure. When I disassembled the bottom end after the 1st rebuild all the pins where secure and there where no marking on the cylinder wall....A piston through the block would not be good.....lol
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Recon it'd matter much? provided it wasnt assembled dry, shouldnt hurt as far as i know. plugs out is probably safer though dont think it'd matter
I really think its a lifter not bled or stuffed, listen to the knock speed, to me it sounds too slow to be crank speed.
SOLUTION to find out, use timing light, does the knock have the exact speed as the flash of the light? if so, its cam/lifter/valve problem. If its twice as fast as the flash you have a bottom end problem
off subject a little with the CAS issue....I would think that if it had something to do with the CAS that the noise would be heard from the front but there is a spacer between the CAS and the aluminum bracket...
abr33: I will try this trick when I get home this afternoon...I assre you that the lifters where bleed. seperated them all, submerged under a clean bath of 10w-30, paper clip inserted in the center of the ball and pumped up and down until all the air was released. What does a collapsed lifter do b/c after bleeding they all where solid...
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is it running oil restrictors in the block? ive seen the same thing when the builder run restrictors in both galleries.
I bought some Tomei restrictors to install but after doing some reading on hydrolic lifters there was no need for them so I sold them...So no restrictors installed..
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Besides the knock, you need to space the Cas away from the cam, or it will break the keyway, and stuff the cas
Did that..Thanks
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Sounds similar to this I think and the mate said that he used an engine flush and cleared the noise right up. Of caorse I cant use that and I already went beyond that and bleed the lifters but here is the link:
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hy_rpm: I went outside and tryed what you told me and the noise is definetly coming from cylinder 6. Possible cylinder 5 but the noise could just be carrying over from cylinder 6. I removed each spark plug with the motor at 2000rpms since the noise isnt that noticable at idle..
DVS JEZ:The 1st time I rebuilt the motor myself but this last go around I let the machine shop do all the work. I made copys of the FSM and let them work from it plus they had there own manuals as well that pretty much has every motor made to man in it. When I dropped the block and head off I made sure to mark all the pistons. The rings and bore where left alone since the motor didnt have no more than 50 miles on it from the 1st build. Only cylinder #2 was tampered with since there was detonation found on that piston and the cylinder walls where damaged. I would hate to say that the machine shop didnt clean the block good enough but lets just say that it was cleaned...then that would make it 2 times that its had a bath.
Dajae: The noise doesnt sound anything like a knock, more so like a tick,tapping noise....I have great oil pressure. 100psi when cold and 25-30psi when warm. A crank collar has been fitted and the oil pump is a new oem replacement. The engine block was in a big clear thick bag of some sort wrapped tightly in tape and the head was placed on a peice of cardboard taped up as well. I installed the head, and installed all the add ons. I put the oil in the motor and made sure that oil pressure was reached before starting....
what does a siezed lifter look and sound like. Im thinking if its the bottom end then I would hear some sort of knock and see something from the tail pipe but im not get neither one. If I put the *stephescope* right beside the spark plug on cylinder 6 I can hear the tapping noise but once again it could be the lifters echoing, fuel being ignited on the compression stroke ,yada yada yada....
What I dont get is the the fact that the noise started after my 1st rebuild. I would hate to tear this motor down for the 3rd time. If I do I might as well part it out and take my lost......
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Thats not injectors mate. Injectors are a slight tick, that sounds like a knock.
I sure hope its not a spun bearing...Oil pressure was gained with the starter, no spark or fuel and took maybe 1 minute. Afterwards she was started right up...
Yeah I know its not injectors as well. I listen to everything with a stephescope and the sound is definetly from the head. At one time I was wondering if it was something like piston slap but the noise in person isnt that deep... Rod knock sounds like this:
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Sounds like rod knock to me. Where all the oil galleries cleaned properly? Where the bungs for oil controll put back on the crank?
Im assuming that all the galleries where cleaned properly. I mean all the work was done at the best local machine shop in town..
I mean usually lifter noise is heard when cold and then it somewhat lightens up when the engine is warm but In my case the noise is louder when the engine is warm. Not sure if it has something to do with the metal getting hotter and explanding or something. Or if it has something to do with the oil viscosity....The engine was purchased like 4-5 years ago with 62,000 miles on it. When the ring lands went on me the 1st time it had maybe 80,000 on it.
Can S1 Cams Be Swapped Into A Neo Head
in Forced Induction Performance
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There is a local machine shop that has been around for years. I'm sure it would take some sort of computer program and nifty machinery to get this done. Might not be worth it doe.....