meet07
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Posts posted by meet07
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I finally got my motor back. I havnt assembled it yet but Ive been reading and wondering how I should go about starting my motor. I have all new injectors, new coil pack setup, new turbo and new bottom end. It seems that people say to break the motor in as soon as you let the temperature warm up and that it dont take long at all for the rings to seal. My problem is that Im gonna let a tuner tune it on the dyno but Im not sure if I should at least start the motor up i my garage to check for leaks and do the 1st oil change. What do you guys think?
Setup is:
rb25 bored .040 over
-wiseco pistons
-bw s366 turbo
-ls truck coil packs
-nistune z32 ecu with rb25 map
Long story short: I rebuilt the engine back in April/june with the components listed above but soon after driving it I noiced glittery oil. The engine had no more than 50 miles on her. After tearing down I realized the thrust on the crank was eaten up as well as cylinder walls #2 along with the piston. So the new motor has a machined crank, same setup plus the new sleeve for cylinder #2 and new piston.
Thats all said but Im jst wondering about the start up. Should I:
-warm the engine up, cut off and drain the oil
-Take it to the tuner and let hie mess with the start up and any other problems
-warm up, drive it for a few miles while adjusting my k constant then let the tuner do the rest?
Thanks
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So how would you go about welding a wastegate onto a twin scrolled turbocharger like the borg warner s366. Would you then weld something like 2 x 38mm tial gates on each side of the divided housing?
I would like to see pictures of these setups. We dont see much of these setups here in the states.
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Twin scroll with be best.
I run a single scroll equal length love fab turbo header with a tial 60mm wg.
Spool test was at .7 bar no boost controller.
Results was:
5 psi at 3,200 rpm
10 psi at 4,300 rpm
Which was fool boost
We set our rev limit to 5,000 rpm
Which was hitting rev limit at 4,800rpm
You can check out Kelford camshafts
They use a lower lift but the same duration as my tomei.
Mine is 10.25 both camshafts
They do help spool
Kelfords camshaft listing for the rb25 is kinda unclear. It shows hydrilic lifters but says that its not suitable for the r33 an r34 with nvcs. So will these drop right into a series 1 rb25det with hydros...? No springs or solid lifters right....?
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How much to ship the head over to the usa? North Carolina 27529?
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Well the Cams were Tomei , weather or not there was a slight mishap with the cam ill never know, so i ended buying another cam just to get the car running ( cost was 550 ) and it arrived today and found that my cam angle sensor was the wrong type on my car. I than called Triple 9 who is the company only to be told to buy a newer cam angle sensor i than asked him about just swapping my cam which is exactly the same only the end into the sensor is different and than got told " because you bought the cam a little while ago we cant just swap it over but we can look after you buying a new one" What a Pile of Shit! I bought the cam one month ago and its been sitting in the box this whole time. I really cant stress to you all not to do business with Triple 9 .
Just sell your car mate...Sounds that you dont have a clue what your doing....
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why not run the line from the can to the downpipes/ exhaust? Keeps the turbo from investing oil debris. I will b looking into doing this soon....
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Would 12an lines from both rocker covers to Moroso can be over kill?? Got a great deal on the can, lines and fittings. And how do you plumb the can drain into the oil dipstick? Are you just using a rubber hose? This is new to me....
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Serious question- do the reputable companies offer warranty to engines etc if their product fails?
I highly doubt it. Just like most people in buisness, when there part fails(which can happen to name brand parts for those that bash the chinese) they always blame it on improper instalation. Every body is out to get our money, it just depends on who you give it to. Its all wasted money at the end of the day when you think about it. over half of us modify our cars b/c we want to and never get what we put into our vehicles. If I can save 400 dollars on something that works just as good then im gonna do it..... It goes back to what I stated earlier....Its just a wastegate. Its not a airplane, its not a space ship its just a wastegate. Just b/c one person makes something doesnt mean that the idea cant be repeated by a company that finds cheaper labor,cheaper over head, material for the same price, equipment for a cheaper price. Its not a secret how a gat works. If someone finds a way to produce it at a cheaper price and it performs like it should then whats the biggie?
Cannabiscorpse: first 2 sentences are yours. no hate from my end....
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ever thought of supporting the companies that do the R&D so that they stay in business and will continue to do R&D and give us more products in the future, as opposed to some guy in china that is killing the industry?
it's not only about what things cost...
we hate on people for MANY reasons here on SAU
I support some of the companies that do R&D. I mean really..... I support ACT,arp,wiseco,eagle,cosworth,nissan,ksport,russels,fuel lab,walbro and the list goes on. Well why am I getting hated on? Hate has no positive outcome so why? Trying to get me to sell this gate and spend 550 bucks on a brand name gate doesnt answer my original question. The point is if people are gonna make stupid comments just leave it to yourself. A forum should be a place where a nissan,sr20,rb26...whatever enthusist should be able to come on here or any forum, ask a question and receive a answer that helps. all the comments that have been made is stuff that I read all the time. It gets old and thats what make forums tasteless. I didnt say that SAU is tasteless. Its the people that run there mouths, thinking there funny and trying to be kool. "I know what your problem is and I dont even need pictures," type of comments......really mature.
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welcome to sau.....
are you running a boost controller? if so what sort?
if you can get hold of a bike pump or even a compressor at really low pressure try feeding some pressure into the gate and see what it does, preferably with a gauge in the line to see what boost it opens at etc.
Yeah I did that last night to see when the gate started to open and when the gate was fully open. It opened at like 2 psi and was fully opened at 8 or so. The gentleman I purchased the gate from told me that he switched from a 14lb spring to a 8.
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It always surprises me when people spend good money on an engine, only to install a very cheap critical item that can completely destroy it.
Would you buy the best bungee harness, best bungee rope, and then buy the cheapest chinese fittings to connect the rope to your harness that you could find on ebay, then go bungee jumping, with lots of faith?
I certainly wouldn't.
Then they blame SAU for tasteless comments and say its a bad place to be.
Really....your gonna compare bungee jumping to a wastegate. One can kill you and the other can easily be replaced or rebuilt if faulty.....lol There is nothing wrong with the gate! The gate works! alot of you didnt even read the post.....I asked about preload adjustment not stating that the gate was staying stuck or not building boost. It gets really old when you ask a question on any forum and when someone see's the word ebay there ready to say the same thing "ohh its not working b/c you bought it from ebay," or "you get what you paid for," take the time and answer the question that someone is asking before jumping to conclusions. Thats what make the forums tasteless.....If you dont have anything worth saying just move on to the next post. Not every part other than expensive name brand parts are junk. Alot of the parts that we put on our cars are not that hard to make. Some things are important like internals and so forth but a 100 dollar wastegate is not gonna blow my engine up.
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The point everyone is trying to make is that Chinese knockoff gates aren't the best quality and while sometimes the quality of the knockoff stuff doesn't matter, when it comes to wastegates it does. The operating conditions are extreme to say the least and often the materials used in the manufacture of the diaphragms etc is not up to the task.
What about when it shits itself and sticks shut, pumps 40psi into your engine and grenades it, are you still going to defend the special fried rice?
And all im trying to say is that not every part sold on ebay is junk. Ive already torn the gate apart and looked over everything. The diapram is thick and durable and the material used to put the gate together is well constructed. I mean really guys....how hard is it to make a gate. You think people manufature stuff and sell it on ebay b/c its gonna blow everyones engine up......Im certain that if my gate wanted to build 40psi I would definetly feel it before it happens. The diapram would almost have to be gone in order for this to happen.
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You probably wouldnt be asking the question if you had a real gate
Your right Zebra....If I had a name brand gate it would be pre adjusted right?? I just wanna fit in guys. I promise to sell this working wastegate and purchase a $550 usd gate so I will be accepted....I promise.
This thread is now full of useless comments. Just delete it please.
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i got so distracted by the pictures i forgot the question
Is it that bad? I actually thought I did pretty good =) Thats what I get for thinking right....
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sounds like you need yourself a non rice special wastegate
So what would you say if I had a name brand gate? Worthless remarks make these forums tasteless......A simple suggestion would work. Im not sure about you guys but I help support the chinese....haayyeeeee ahhhh!!
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Well I can see the problem already, without the pictures!
Really??
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Is the gate a fried rice special too?
What brand is it?
The gate is a rice patty special. I went ahead and added tension on the spring. Guess it was opening to early.
Its the barney brand(purple dinasour)
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Is glittery oil normal after a fresh engine rebuild. I just rebuilt my motor and im hearing a noise as weel from cylinders 5 and 6. Sounds like more of a top end noise with the stethescope but im curious about the glittery oil during the break in period. Looks like a goldish color.....
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I noticed last year that my external gate was making a shuttering noise while going into boost. Sometimes at full boost it would make the noise. It almost sound like the valve was moving up and down really fast while still controlling boost?? There is a adjustment on top of the gate that looks like it controls preloud. Im sure adjusting that would fix the issue but then again im not certain. can anyone shed light
mods are
-rb25 with a built bottom end
-wiseco pistons 0.040 over
-eagle rods
-gt35 ebay turbo (57 or 59mm)
-stec manifold
-single 50mm wastegate with vband
-3 inch dp exhaust.
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I think most use stock b/c people would rather the gasket blow than messing up internals...
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84 so far.
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im running ford lightning maf blow through and the 25 loves it. Nistune is te best thing I have purchased for the 25 besides the upgraded turbo...heheheh and stec manifold.
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What about white smoke out of the tail pipe. I just noticed some more than normal blowby after installing this turbo. Im thinking its blowby from the piston rings b/c at idle im seeing smoke from the cacth can and the oil dipstick when removed. It could be the turbo but doubt it. The dipstick hasnt popped out after hard acceleration yet..
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I havn't done a compression test yet. Ill be doing one tomm but im having oil/white smoke coming from the oil dipstick tube. So im trying to weight my options. Im either looking into buying anouther rb25det s1 short block or just do a basic rebuild.
Im wondering if I do a basic rebuild could I reuse the same bearings and just install a crank collar and new rings, freshen up the cylinders and call it a day? The engine has like 70,000 miles on it and its a weekend car...
Noise After Rebuild...
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Engine specs: RB25det
-Wiseco pistons bored .040 over
-eagle rods
-acl oversized bearings
-Machined crank with collar
-cosworth head gasket
-mild port work on the exhaust side(humps removed)
-5 angle valve job
Make a long story short....I have had this motor gone through twice. Shortyafter the 1st rebuild the thrust got eat up and I was forced to tear it backdown and get her re machined and put back together. The 1st time I rebuilt theengine I had a ticking noise that was coming from the head(cylinder 5-6) or atleast it sounded like it came from the head. I removed the lifters,cleaned,bleed and put them back in. The noise never went away but since there wasglitter in the oil I didnt mess with it any more since I had bigger issues.Well I rebuilt the motor the 2nd time and Im still hearing the noise. The noiseis heard when cold, but it gets louder when the engine is warm and gets louderwith the revs. I removed the lifters for a 2nd time,cleaned and bleed and theproblem still exist.....
I am trying to pin point the problem so I can drive my car again. A few said toreplace the lifters with new but the motor only has about 80,000km on it...
Here is a video:
few engine shots:
please help...
Thanks