bahanthich

i may have missed something, but i cant see where you mentioned what the problem is if you keep blowing the 15amp fuse for the fuel pump in the boot? I have installed a walbro fuel pump (is mounted securely), (highflow version 255l/hr - apparently) and about a week after i installed it. I blew the 15amp fuse. About 10 minutes after putting another fuse in (15amp), i blew it. I used a 20amp fuse to drive it home, but dont want to leave it like/drive it this until i can fix it. I had to use a crimp to connect the positive and negative cables of the fuel pump (supplied with the fuel pump) to the factory wires. Ive seen a few posts about walbro fuel pumps being installed, and this fuse blowing but couldnt find a resolution except possibly replace the wires?. Do upgraded fuel pumps need bigger fuses? In another post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/fu...ump-t76328.html it says generally max current for a fuel pump is flow/hr divided by voltage. so with the walboro flowing 255l/hr / 13v is around 20amps. does anyone know what the stock wiring supports (i presume its probably 15amps because thats what the stock fuse is). Should i replace all the stock wiring for the fuel pump, and then install a larger fuse (or keep the 20amp fuse).?? Does this mean the relay also needs to be replaced with one which can support more amps?

does this fit r33 gtsts?

thanks for the criticisms. another thing i forgot to ask. when i installed the walboro pump, it replaced the 12v and earth connections, and says in the instructions to use a crimp connection (supplied with the pump) to connect the factory wires (connecting to the factory harness) to the walboro wires (which connect to the new harness on the new pump). i have done this, but i thought it was a bit dodgy as its probably sitting in fuel. is this what everyone else has done with walboro pumps? or is there a better way to connect the wires so theyre better insulated inside the tank. i was thinking of puting some kind of tape around the connections, but though it would probably cause more harm if the tape came undone and was loose in the fuel tank.

it is securely connected to the original bracket. but the bracket is not mounted inside the fuel tank. i didnt know it was meant to be mounted until i read a article on installing the fuel pump here and saw the bracket should be mounted. (the fuel pump/bracket was loose in the tank when i took it out, so i just presumed (wrongly) it was normal).

3lit3 32- you dont have to be a wanker about it. the reason why i said it is because the original fuel pump was sitting loosely in the tank when i removed it. then i saw the article about fuel pumps here and saw it should actually be mounted inside the fuel tank.

yeah your right, ill take it out again tommorrow and fix it. the black screw lid thing was a real bitch to tighen

I just installed a walboro fuel pump, but realised i didnt mount it inside the fuel tank, i just put it in. is this a big problem if its sitting loosely inside the fuel tank? I dont really want to do it all again, but i think i will have to.. car seems to be running fine (96 skyline gtst)

I replaced my o2 sensor and fuel filter (with z200 ryco filter), and since then it is taking at least 2 or 3 times to start with the key. Usually around 3 times, then it starts fine without problem. Before i changed these, it started first time when key is turned every single time. Anyone have any ideas why this is, maybe its wrong fuel filter? I checked forums here, and people have said the z200 is compatible with my car. I also adjusted the idle screw at a similar time so the car idling went from 1000rpm when warm to around 750rpm. My car is series 2 1996 skyline gtst. any help or ideas would be appreciated.