lukevl

By Aust Post its about $15 or so one way. Would be cheaper if you sent more than one set.

OR you could live in sunny QLD and reap the benefits of warm weather all year round... lol

By Aust Post its about $15 or so one way. Would be cheaper if you sent more than one set.

Ivan Tighe Engineering 47 Westgate St Wacol. 4076 Q. Put a note in there saying what you want along with your details and attention it to me. (Just a general rule for anyonw who wants to do it)

Sweet. Thanks man. So I shouldn't have any probs with the plug lead part or did you have to swap them over to suit the new coil-plug distance? Or is it the same?

Did a search couldn't find exactly what i was looking for. Will RB26 coils out of an R33 GTR fit my R33 GTS cylinder head? The guy said he has the ignitor on top of the rocker cover so I assume they are S1 (I thought R33s were all inbuilt ignitors??) and I also have the external ignitor on the rocker cover. I am using Motec so wiring isn't a huge issue just need to make sure that the coils work with the Rb25 ignitor. Also I heard there may be some plug lead length differences??

8.45mm lift on both. So the standard springs will be ok.

Yeah no worries. We don't have any issues with aus post so long as they are wrapped up well. Or and sort of courier.

:Oops:

I know how you guys like pictures The blue one is the hydraulic profile I grind on and the red one is your GTR cam. This graph is what is on the camshaft. You can see what needs to be taken off. The little closing ramp on the blue one demonstrates a very good hydraulic profile made by nissan to prevent fast valve seating and potentially necking the valves. This one is to give you an idea of what happens at the valve. The red (GTR) profile is smaller because it has had some clearance taken off it. So you can see the gains to be had from this grind. I don't have a GTS grind on the cam doctor (or couldn't be stuffed finding it) but rest assured it is quite a bit smaller again.

OK didn't read the whole thread but for $280 incl. I can re-grind your GTR cams to hydraulic spec. This is a Nissan grind and it acutally makes the profile larger because there is no more clearance. Do not get overly excited about the increased size because it isn't a huge amount over the GTR cams but it does make them hydraulic and it WILL work in every instance. The area under the lift-duration plot (at the valve) is an increase of 5% over the GTR profile but this is all in lift. So this means you get the same duration at 0.050" but an extra 0.5mm lift at the valve. The base circle will be approximately 0.5mm smaller in diameter which the hydraulic buckets will take up. I don't want to start a sh1t fight, just offering a solution. Sorry I didn't organise this earlier Roy...

Holy moly max slump 1.0mm!? Thats incredible. 0.6mm is also ludicrous. But then again when its running it shouldn't do that with good seals. I see what you're saying by the seal etc and I assumed that most Rb owners what have reasonably good quality lifters. If they do sag that much it would almost be bearable. However with the RB vs pushrod arguement, the RBs would have less spring pressure by a small amount (depending on if they are standard or who sets them up obviously) and less inetrial weight and no ratio, but the pushrods do have a much larger (by area) hydraulic piston to push on and as a result after the ratio and inertial mass wouldn't far off each other. Anyway, agree with someone's previous post that you should just put an RB26 head on to begin with. The weight difference between a hydraulic follower and the mechanical ones is huge as a percentage. Also $350 is about the average price for grinding the GTR cams to a hydraulic version and something that I highly recommend. No headaches then and its not really that expensive for what you get.

Any differnece between S1 and S2 coils that anyone knows of???

Why would they set it up like that? On the BDAs and other cosworth stuff they run the cooler between the scavenge outlet and the tank which makes sense because then if a rock or some debris hits the cooler and splits it (I wasn't actually talking about hose failures as I generally only use speedflow stuff) then it will leak out slowly and will last a little while as opposed to wet sump in which case you have very little time to shut down the motor to save your big ends. Niel- I'm using a GTS-t pump which is similar in size to a VLT pump but bigger. I don't really want the little thing to be pushing through a cooler and lines as well.

Thanks a lot for the answer. I understand what you mean. I do think it will help cooling a bit but. I have a bit of a test mule RB30 and when you get high oil temp its almost impossible to get it to go away! I swear if you leave it overnight after a good flogging its still got hot oil! But seriously I just like to have something there to cool the oil as opposed to the Rb30s which are just a sealed system. Hey maybe i could fin the sump. lol.

Oh man SK this is getting painful. You do everything else right by the sounds of it but why recommend putting mechanical cams in a hydraulic motor? There is a reason why the cams are different and you know it. You wouldn't put an oil tank below the height of a dry sump pump would you? So why do this? At 0.25mm lift the RB20/25 hydraulic cams have about 230 degrees on the seat. (0.25mm is just for a comparison) At 0.25mm lift the RB26 solid cams have 310 degrees on the seat. Thats 40 degrees a side per lobe! Consider that SAE quote 0.15mm running clearance for a hydraulic lifter the problem only gets worse (because at these heights the mechanical ramps have a much smaller gradient) While these sorts of lifts don't create much airflow they do lose the vital seal needed to give the motor some dynamic compression down low which it needs for a stable and smooth idle. In some cases I would agree you could get away with running a mechanical profile hydraulic but the mechanical Nissan profiles have such large and aggressive ramps. It is a known fact that to get the GTR past emissions the clearances would be at their correct point (about 0.50mm) and then closed up to make them sound fat on idle while not losing top end performance. My understanding is that the factory clearances are about 0.30mm or so with about 0.05mm expansion from cold to hot - is this right?

No I have an RB30. I do not want to use an air-oil cooler on a wet sumped motor as if a puncture or leakage occurs oil will piss out due to it being under pressure. It will be an upgrade due to the fact that the RB30s have no cooler standard and something is better than nothing in this case. Unless of course they deteriorate or fail in some way which is what I'm trying to find out. ANYONE??

Does anyone know anything about these?

Bad idling is caused by large valve overlap. With the GTR cams your valve overlap would be at least 30 degrees more at .25mm lift meaning BAD IDLE. Makes virtually no difference up top when the car is going but its going to sound like GTR with PMS on and low rpm and load.

Just wondering if the factory water-oil cooler that sits between the filter and block is any good? I understand they are not the best but do they have a tendancy to deteriorate and fail in any way? I can get one for next to nothing but just wanted to know if anyone has had issues with them. Thanks.

Yeah done all that. Set the gear judge and got gear learning all turned on. 2 weird things: 1. When we make the start duty less (more negative) it doesn't necessarily make the spike go away. IN fact sometimes we get the opposite effect. Its almost like trial and error. Does anyone think its because our wastegate setting is too high??? 2. When setting the gear judge with the 'capture' feature while driving, the n/s figure climbs the more you rev it. Was the install dodgy? We get good speed and rpm readings. I assume n/s is rpm divided by road speed which would give a constant number (linear gearing) for each gear? Since ours climbs as revs rise in the one gear should we get a better rpm or speed input?

Trying to tune one on an RB30et now and I have a dilemma. I can't get it to self learn duty cycles to match the target boost levels. Now I know it won't self learn if 1. Start up duty isn't zero%. 2. If the boost over shoots or is higher than the requested level. We have an actuator that runs (Spikes) at 1.0 kg/cm2 then settles at 0.90 or so and we are aiming for 1.15 consistantly hence the fitment of the avc-r. Is our target figure too close to the wastegate setting and preventing self learn from working? Thanks in advance.

I need the connectors to go into the RB25 ignitor and also the cam angle sensor connector. Does anyone know where I can find these? I don't think anyone would let me cut them off their loom i don't think.

I was considering the magic cat too but wouldn't it really shaft your ground clearance?

Do you know the specs on the cams? Cause I have seen R32, 33 and 34 GTR cams and they are all exactly the same profile.