25GTV
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Posts posted by 25GTV
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You're probably right Duncan, thanks for the info. Unfortunately the car budget has very little funds available, so...
I have in the garage a spare s15 Helcial diff that I believe I can swap the centre and run s15 shafts.Also, I can add some camber and toe in the rear for free.
The front tyres will have to wait for additional funds...
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31 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
wow that's pretty good!
I'm still a massive chicken shit and the fastest I've been was about 140km/h
It's a bit scary... Especially with a locked diff and zero aero.
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168km/h on the gps into Turn 1. Still not completely confident turning it in and I roll off the throttle after the finish line then coast turn 1.
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Hi guys, I spent days researching spring rates for skylines (particularly GTT R34s) the general info was that 8/6kg setups were too stiff for the road and many said even too stiff for track...
My car felt way too soft on the track and still too much body roll after doing a larger front swaybar.
I went from 8/5kg to 14/8kg and the car felt amazing and no where near too stiff on track. The car was also lowered 20mm when the springs were changed.
Result was a 1.547 around Gardner Circuit at SMSP which is still slow. If you watch my vids, the car is very slidy which is fun but slow and rear grip is the next step.
Basic info:
Front Tyres 235 Zestine 07R
Rear Tyres Chinese 265s
220rwkw 12 psi
Locked Diff
Drift knuckles (ex drift car)
Shockworks coilovers
Whiteline 24mm F swaybar
Ext front LCAs, basic adj rear arms.
Stock brakes
Bucket Seat, Half Cage and still has climate control.
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Here it is at Eastern Creek on Tuesday night.
Had an absolute driving this track. The vibrations through the drivetrain at 200+ was scary and the rack bushes worsened over the sessions. Keen to make it faster.
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I have shockworks coilovers, 7kg 5kg. Adjustable rear upper arms. Adj Front Caster Arms and extended front LCAs. Locked diff.
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Hi Guys,
Been using my R34 GTT Sedan for track stuff for years. Slowly releasing the content and enjoying the great tracks in Aus. Anyone have any tips on setup for a well balanced grip car? I'll run semi slicks all round in the future.
Theres a few vids on my account, some drifting, a dyno run and some grip events. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1tEZWxhF0w
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Hi Guys! Just an update, I rolled it...
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Hi guys a mate tapped the back of another car and needs some aprts to fix it.
Mainly after a Bonnet, Front Bar with accessories, grill and maybe a head light or two.
Please let me know what you have. Must be S2 obviously.
Sydney prefferred but will consider anywhere.
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21 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:
Just make sure the IAT is post cooler, pretty useless before cooler or at the turbo inlet.
I will, being the std manifold its hard to get it somewhere that heat soak front the hotside wont affect it. I might try just before the throttle body.
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That's the plan for the future. For now I have an opportunity to drive the car real soon and I am just going to monitor temps with a spare sensor wired to my defi MFD.
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Certainly was my decision, not the tuners. Also, I'd imagine there are thousands of 34GTTs with platinum pros that have no IAT sensor...
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Yeah will do, missed it before the tune and said i would bring it back.
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MAP sensor.
Didn't have an IAT stock and I haven't fitted one yet.
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Thanks! I understand how broard the question is but was hoping for some experiended guys to provide a rough guide. eg the 60 deg said above is a good rough place to start.
I agree the e85 is the safety factor here as far as knock goes and on paper the hotter temp should mean lower density and less fuel required for that volume of air.
Really, it should be rich when the temps get high.
I'm going to fit a sensor now and see what they look like after a few hard laps. All I know is it appears to lose a little power and the temp on each side of the cooler becomes even after lots of laps.
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Hi guys,
I have a r34 neo with a highflowed op6, E85, 3inch striaght through and a blitz rtn flow cooler. Platinum Pro ecu.
Its a track drift car only. Around 245rwkw on 16psi but it tapers off boost in the top end.
I monitor the coolant and oil temps now but I drift it in 2nd and 3rd gear for about 8 corners in a row with a tiny cool down on a 0.5km straight in between laps. The cooler does get some heat soak.
I specifically want to know what sort of intake temps are acceptable and what would be a temp to stop and cool down the car at?
Is there a general temp for this motor and fuel that means knock is imminent?
Has anyone logged their intake air temps at the track with hard driving?
Had a good 2hr search before posting this. Thanks in advance.
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Had these in storage for a while. Out of a 93 GTR with 45kms on it.
In my opinion they are 9/10 condition.
unrestored original condition.
All I’ve done is vacuum them and the drivers side would respond well and brighten up to a steam clean.
Fabric is tight and the bolsters aren’t worn.
I was keeping them for a future resto build but I need the space.
If you’ve got a 32gtr with rough seats this is the best thing you could do to it.$1650
Pickup from Sydney 2224
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I used another boost controller to monitor the boost at the turbo outlet compared to the manifold. The turbo hold 20.5psi from 4500 to 7000. The Manifold sees 16 at 4500 then instantly to 14 psi and 12.5 by 7000rpm.
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What sort of power figure?
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Has a kinagawa 12psi actuator. Greddy OLED Profec boost controller.
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Thanks GTSBoy, so is it a common problem that the return flow cooler setups cant flow enough air at that sort of power?
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Hi guys,
This has been covered before but I have read through a bunch of the threads and not found the solution.
I have a rb25det neo. Hypergear highflowed OP6, Front Mount rtn flow cooler, 1000cc injectors and e85, 3 inch exhaust (no cat).
When tuned the car made 230kw on 14psi but when we added more boost it hit 16psi at 4200 than tapered down to 13psi by 5000rpm and 12psi by 7000rpm.
I've removed all mufflers and have a steel intake pipe.
If we set the boost control to 18psi it makes 250kw at 4500 rpm then falls to 12 psi and 200kw by 5500rpm. We think the turbo starts to cavitate.
It doesnt misfire and does everything else perfectly. Could this turbo just be out of puff?
What other common problems cause this?
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Hi guys, I own this now!
Shes a little bit rougher than she was back then.
I’ve been making some adjustments to make it slide better but mainly trying to stop it getting so hot after any sort of hard driving...
There’s a skid vid on my insta @freeknight66
I’ve added an electric water pump and pulled the thermostat to try get the temps to stay down but so far it still loves to cook.
3.9 seconds quicker at SMSP after large increase to Spring Rate - Vid in post.
in Motorsport
Posted
The mid corner understeer is probably majority linked to the Drift Knuckle geomerty (extra lock knuckles). In general they destroy everything whilst giving big lock.
I will say it is great fun to drive like this, predictable when the low grip limit is pushed.