drpheel
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Posts posted by drpheel
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Only thing changing on my new wheel setup was the rear is a little wider but thats not a issue. My main concern and reason i started the topic was for the front caliper clearance with the Work Md disk.
Yes, I was going to a 3 peice wheel setup with the same specs in the front but I know some disk type dont clear big calipers. Shop I got them from estimated a 5 to 8 mm spacer but I wanted to check if someone had done it before so I knew exactly the spec of the spacer i needed.
Ecr33 + work MD disk = need 15mm spacer in front
Case closed
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11 minutes ago, hardsteppa said:
Pretty easy to replace if you have a press, but you might just need to tighten the nut. Pull the cap off and have a check.
Already did!! Tight as F&*=$ so im guessing its the inside bearings. I have a press handy so its going to be a easy bearing swap once I source all the bits and pieces as it seems there is a few other parts to change from what i can see of a part breakdown I just found online!
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18 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:
So 18x10.5 +20 doesn't clear the rear brakes? Is that what you're saying?
Not sure where you're getting this conclusion form previous posts. All subjects and statements made are about the front caliper clearance.
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Thanks guys! Looking this up as we speak
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Hey SAU!! Was installing my wheels on my Ecr33 Skyline over the weekend and noticed a small play in my upper kingpin. Unfortunately I dont seem to have the proper terminology or part name to find anything on google. Il include a picture to make sure we are referring to the same part. If someone could put me on the right track it would be greatly appreciated!
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For anyone searching this topic in the future you will need a 15mm spacer to clear the front caliper on a ecr33 with a Work Md disk
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Im currently running 18x9.5+20 all around and like that look so wheels are same specs, only thing changing is the rear at 10.5in
Thanks for your input! Cant wait to get the wheels next week!!
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I run 18x9.5 +20 on all 4 corners, front and rear have rolled fenders with no pull at all and I consider this the perfect agressive fitment for a ecr33. 18x10 on the rear will give you not even a 1/4 inch more poke inside and outside of your wheel so I dont see it being a issue! I do have aftermarket suspension but it is not very low.
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8 hours ago, Leroy Peterson said:
What model wheels is it for? spoke design is a bigger influence on caliper clearance than disk choice.
My guess, mid disk will be heaps of space for OEM R33 calipers.
Thanks for the reply Leroy! The wheel faces are Work VS-SS
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Ecr33 Work wheel MD disk front fitment
Does anyone have experience fitting a work MD disk wheel face with oem ecr33 calipers? I'm not sure if I will need a spacer to clear the caliper and I want to make sure I order the proper offset if I'm going to have to kick the wheel out a bit.
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S1 rb25, Wiseco pistons, BC rods, Cosworth metal HG, all ARP hardware, Greddy intake
Bullseye power s259 turbo t3 .76 twinscroll, Precision 44mm gate on a trust style manifold
SARD 800CC, TOMEI fpr, Aeromotive stealth pump
JUN crank collar, N1 oil pump, tomei oil restrictors
521whp @ 29psi on a dynapack
Base tune only, missing poncams and +1000 rpm on the clock (redline at 7000)
Will hopefully post the next results before the end of the summer
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15 hours ago, GTSBoy said:
I think it is very simple. DBA are not expensive brake parts. They are not at the bottom of the price lists, but they certainly are not expensive. (For proof, look at how many kidneys you have to sell to buy equivalent Brembo or Project Mu rotors!). And DBA are known to be very good quality.
Bremaxx. Never heard of them. But given the choice of spending a small amount of money on unknown mystery quality brake parts, or double the money on known good quality stuff, I don't even ask the question.
Yea , DBA was my first pick also. They must be cheap for you guys since the company is local but with the import and currency exchange they are about same thing here in Canada as the other brands. I do know that some products are not available here and since I only seen the Bremaxx for sale in Australia I was wondering if you guys heard of them. I'm used to seeing overpriced stuff here in Canada so I cant really make a judgement based on the price and that's why I asked.
Thanks for your input !
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Hey folks ! I am looking into a break service on my Ecr33 and I ran into a dilemma concerning my front rotors options. Id like to have the same brand on all 4 corners but since I am in Canada I have a hard time finding the 296x30 front rotors . My local speed shop can get me either DBA / Dixcel or BREMAXX . Now for the price of the 2 fronts on either DBA or Dixcel he can source me all 4 rotors and pads from Bremaxx. I try to search them online and only thing that seems to come up are Ebay AU auctions and I cant find a webpage or any other information on this brand. Any of you guys have had experience with this or any other suggestions ?
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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:
There's not really a torque setting. These things are done up to a "feel".
Thanks for the reply GTSBoy - I ended up calling a buddy that looked in a USDM shop manual on his computer at work. Since its the same bearing as a 300z I assume its the same torque spec. The manual listed a torque of 200Ft/lbs so I wont take any change and follow the FSM as both have same bearing and setup according to the part breakdown
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I'm in the process of changing the front wheel bearings on my ecr33 Skyline and I notice in the manual there is no torque spec for the big 32 mm nut that holds the spindle / hub assembly onto the knuckle . In fact , in the FSM I don't even see the that specific bolt in the part breakdown. I notice that the nut was punched on the edges to secure on the stud it threads on so i'm not sure if I just seat it properly and punch it or if it has to be set to a specific torque.
the picture below will give you a Idea of the Nut i'm talking about if my explanation is unclear. i know its a rear hub and not from a skyline but its to give you a idea of the nut i'm talking about
Any help would be greatly appreciated , Thanks !
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Anyone ?? not even a internet troll
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I bought a R32 GTR that was blown on cyl #6 , the guys must of had a million feedback on Ebay because his car was built with the most cheap crap you can find on there ! IDK how he did it but he even managed to get rip off of the actual rip off parts
So out we go with the 26 and all the cheap crap and in with the new 26. When cleaning the head of the old engine out I found the only authentic part on the car A nice set of Apexi intake and exhaust cam shafts. Must of been there since it left the mother land because i doubt the cheapo that had the car was able to fork out the green for those ... and well ...you cant find them on Ebay . They are a few markings on it but nothing I can match online or find info about. Other then calculating the lift and duration by hand is there anyone who has more info on those cam shafts markings ? seems to be a bunch of models for the 26, some of them only fit the Bnr34. The stock lifter buckets were un-shimmed and looked factory , valves and springs are also OEM. The only info i found for rb26 can be seen here : http://www.ooparts-international.co.jp/index/car/listbybrand/apexi/engineparts/index.htmlthe product codes don't seem to match up with the markings on the cam gears ,
Any info on what to look for would be well appreciated !
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Well 4 thou is pretty normal for 2618.
Actually you build it loose and everyone will know - because it will rattle like a b!tch on start up. Dont have any noise out of mine with 4 thou but it might get a bit colder where you live.
Just for interests sake:
http://www.jepistons.com/PDFs/TechCorner/SCPDrawings/piston_instrc2618.pdf
Compared to
http://www.jepistons.com/PDFs/TechCorner/SCPDrawings/piston_instrc4032.pdf
And for other, old school stuff - the clearance is 5 thou.
http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB26DETTForgedPistons.htm
Anyway if you check the JE docs carefully it recommends more clearance for turbo motors for obvious reasons.
Great info ! thanks again I will have to call wiseco back because i know the coating they have on the pistion skirts goes down about 0.0005 when it wears out so il have to take that in consideration to. altho this is what Wiseco says about the coating on the webpage :
Some of our forged pistons offer our new ArmorGlide™ skirt coating, which is the result of testing, development, and benchmarking through Wiseco’s rigorous in-house dyno program. The outcome is the ultimate in skirt coating toughness, lubrication, and bond technology working together to minimize friction, maximize horsepower, and provide improved wear resistance. Not only is ArmorGlide™ a high-tech lubricant that reduces friction, but it also allows the piston to be fitted tighter within the bore allowing a better ring seal and reduced noise from piston rock.
Not sure if that is done for the initial seal /break in for the rings and eventually wears out to give a little more clearance when pushing it harder. Il get on the phone with Wiseco ( if i get the line ) and report back my findings !
Thanks again for your input #@djr81
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Not sure what alloy Wiseco use but most pistons are about 4 thou.
Wiseco uses 2618
2618 alloy , low silicone. This makes the piston more malleable and causes them to deform rather than shatter under extreme pressures. therefore the piston will expand more under heat = more p2w clearance they will have about 15% greater tensile strength and about 10% greater fatigue endurance then 4032. High HP application usual put the p2w clearance loose to prevent the piston from sticking to the cyl wall if any unwanted expansion occurred and sacrifice a little blow-by on idle until they warm up and eventual wear of the cyl wall over time.4032 alloy, high silicone will have less expansion, low p2w clearance but when they go out .... they BLOW out. they will more likely shows less sing of wear in the cyl over the long run then 2618 because they will be very little difference in size at operating temperature letting the builder use a tighter P2w clearance. so less slap in the cyl when getting up to operating temp and less wear on the cyl walls.Funny quote from the Honda guys forum ; Build it loose, only you will know OR build it tight and EVERYONE will know
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I have those exact pistons in my 2630 and we tightened them up to 2 thou, car has seen 28psi on E85 but at 30psi it miss fired due to backpressure from the turbos
Motor has been running since Feb last year, cold dry comp tested two weeks ago and all 6 were within 5 psi of each other
Wow! running them 0.0020 instead of the recomended 0.0025? i know Wiseco says the coating will wear down about 0.0005 but maybe the fact that you are using E85 and not seeing the same combustion temperature as a pump gas engine at the same power level
Thanks for your input, I will take note of this information
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very common for forged pistons, p2w ( piston to wall clearance ) will vary depending on the load / heat the engine will endure , Since forged piston expand with heat (more then stock) some builder will run a higher piston to wall clearance then recommended by the MFG so the piston will not hit the cyl wall when it will expand a bit more depending on the load / heat. This is what you call piston slap. It will quiet down as your car gets to operating temperature because of the expansion of the piston with the heat.
If the noise persists when hot, now that would be another issue.
I would like to know if you have the build sheet or could ask your engine builder what piston to wall clearance he is using for your aplication
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After having the infamous ring land failure on the stock bottom end I have decided to go with new pistons and rods for this season , The car will be running Wiseco 86.5 pistons and I would like to know what kind of P2W (piston to wall) clearance you guys are using. I know the 0.0025 Wiseco recommends is way to tight for a high boost application with pump gas. I have already talked to Wiseco and have a ball park Idea on what i want to run but I would like to have information from the builders as to what you guys are running.
Wiseco 86.5 : K578M865AP
Brian Crower rods
running 2 bars on 94 Octane
supporting mods
Thanks for reading and please inform me if you want any other info on the build
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Pull the plug, plug it into the coil pack, sit it on top of the motor with about 1-2mm between the end of the plug and one of the rocker covers, get a mate to start the car for you (turn your turbo timer off first) and see if there's a spark at the plug. You only need the car runnign for 2-3 seconds (no damage will be done when doing this). Perhaps even pull two and compare them. #6 might be sparking but be very weak.
If you have lots of delicious spark, I'd be looking for a fuel problems such as a leaky or blocked injector.
Great ! I had in mind that I could only do that with a standard spark plug wire and distributor ... Il give it a try in the morning
Tnx for the input -
I tryed stock 26 coil packs working , stock 20 and 25 and I still get the problemeDo you have stock coil packs? If the spark plugs don't fix it, then I'm sorry to say but you'll have to get a known working set and swap it in.***edit : I have also tryed different wire looms from the Ignitor to the coil packs with different coil packs and still same result
So out we go with the 26 and all the cheap crap and in with the new 26. When cleaning the head of the old engine out I found the only authentic part on the car 
A nice set of Apexi intake and exhaust cam shafts. Must of been there since it left the mother land because i doubt the cheapo that had the car was able to fork out the green for those ... and well ...you cant find them on Ebay 
. They are a few markings on it but nothing I can match online or find info about. Other then calculating the lift and duration by hand is there anyone who has more info on those cam shafts markings ? seems to be a bunch of models for the 26, some of them only fit the Bnr34. The stock lifter buckets were un-shimmed and looked factory , valves and springs are also OEM. The only info i found for rb26 can be seen here : 
Tnx for the input
Bullseye power S259 Turbo
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
Up for sale is my S259 ETT turbo. This unit is a Borg Warner CHRA custom built by Bullseye Power. Compressor is fitted with a 2.5in 90 degree Elbow outlet with boost port. Compressor wheel also has ETT (extended tip technology) This technology maximizes flow and reduces inertia to make the compressor flow 67 lbs/min. Turbine housing is T3 twin scroll .76 A/R with 6 Bolt downpipe housing. The turbo has had a full refresh from Bullseye Power about 3000 KM ago with a total use of about 8000KM. I will also include the -4an oil adapter pictured. Payed over 1300 USD new and asking 700$ USD
Turbo is located in Canada and ready to ship out. 75$US for Canada and USA - 150$USD international Shipping - Paypal Only
Please contact by e-mail for faster responce : r3activ AT gmail DOT com