payback21
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Posts posted by payback21
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Ignitor needs to be replaced. To confirm that it is the problem for sure, see if you can borrow another ignitor as a test.
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R32 GTR power steering pumps are different from R32 GTS-T or R32 GTS-4. They have different connections but it could be modified to fit.
R32 RB26DETT GTR Power Steering Pump
R32 RB20DET GTS-T Power Steering Pump
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I would imagine there would be quite a bit of wiring change going from a RB20DET to a RB25DE motor but i could be wrong. My personal recommendation is that you get a R32 GTR front cut with wiring loom, motor/box and just swap everything straight over. If your bored like me with the RB20 because it doesn't cut the cake, stick a RB26 in it. Heres a link to my engine conversion going from a RB20 to a RB26 on my R32 GTS4 4 door. It was a very easy job to do. RB26DETT Into A Gts-4 Conversion
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Would this be the thread? Clicky!
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The GTR alt will work. Some R33 Skylines use a 8mm BAT terminal, were R32 have a 6mm BAT terminal. Easy to sort. Thats the only difference connection's wise. Amps wise, it will be fine.
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the only reason you would need to regap plugs to .8 is if the coilpacks are tired, if your coilpacks are fine you run standard gap.
Some people gap there plugs (including myself) to .8 on higher than standard boost. This is why i asked what boost he was running. On higher than standard boost engines, the more boost pressure tends to blow out the spark because of the gap being too big making the spark jump all over the place. (Hence why its breaking down). A little trick Denzo told me about a while ago.
Coilpacks maybe another fault. Its a trial and error problem.
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By the sounds of it, i would say plugs. They need to be re-gaped to 0.8 or replaced. What boost you run?
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Im pretty sure they all interchange.
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Yes mate. Go through the boot into the inspection plate. Pull the pump out of the tank and then syphon the remaining fuel out.
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Check the intake pipe going from the AFM to the side of the turbo. They can wriggle off abit being a little loose and can suck air in making the car unable to idle properly and rev correctly.
While wriggling the pipe to check, you may need a torch to see if it has come off from the turbo. Its just a thought to check out.
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Everything bolts up the same. Its the pipe work connecting to the power steering pump and air con pump that is different.
Also you have to remember that the plum back system on a RB26 is way different to the RB25. Another thing different is having 2 O2 sensors on 26 dump pipes. Accelerator cable is also something else that needs to be changed from memory. The list goes on...
I totally recommend you go with a R33 26 loom and ecu. Your asking for a big headache using the 25 loom.
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To be honest, i think you would be better to change all the wiring loom and ecu with a R33 GTR wiring loom and ecu.
What i did with my R32 GTS4 was get a R32 GTR half cut, having all the wiring loom, ecu, motor, dash, intercooler, piping etc and then just swap it all straight into my GTS4. It was so much easier to do compared to chopping the original 20 wiring loom to suit the 26. Also by doing this, i was able to change the dash harness to the GTR one allowing me to use the triple gauge cluster in the center of the dash.
You will also find that things like power steering pump / reservoir tank, air con pump etc will also need to be changed if you wish to use the twin turbo setup.
Get yourself a R33 GTR half cut. Its way easier and you wont have the headache to go with it.
Heres a link to my engine conversion. RB26DETT Into A R32 Gts-4 Conversion
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Egg on one of the tyres??? Im only guessing.
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The Nissan aerial plug has 2 pins on it, it also has a clip on the side that you have to squeeze to remove the plug. You will need to buy a aerial adapter to adapt from the 2 pin to the std single pin plug. Heres a DIY link showing you were it is and what it looks like. Clicky!
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Yer drop from the bottom. Its easier. All plumbing to the turbos will need to be removed so the engine can drop down in between the chassis rails. A couple of power steering lines will also need to be disconnected from the kframe.
Starter motor top bolt needs 14mm short socket, wobbly drive and extensions. Yes they are a pain to do but you can do it with the right tools.
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1. what does the battery light in dash mean?Battery isn't charging.
2. could it be my alternator?Yes most likely
3. how hard is it to change an alternator?Not hard. Its very easy
4. fog lights?Doubt it to be the cause
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Vacuum leak? Check all vacuum hoses to the plenum.
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Not that i can here it very clearly coz there is a dam bird chirping in the background, but it sounds like a shitty injector causing it to miss. I could be wrong as it is hard to hear.
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Well yesterdays cruise was a absolute hit. Thankyou to everyone that turn up for the cruise. It was a most enjoyable day out cruising. Top stuff guys!
Catch you all on the next one
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added it onto the main post for you.
Cheers!
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*UPDATE* *UPDATE* *UPDATE*
Okay cruisers, it is now confirmed that we will be stopping for lunch to have a BBQ so remember to bring your sausages and buns. For those who don't want to bring something for a BBQ, shops will be close by to grab something to eat.
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My choice would be the first one.
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It would be good to see you there. Meet a few people from all parts of Perth.
R33 Series 2 Missing Under Boost
in General Maintenance
Posted
Just a thought, fuel filter is blocked. Check fault codes first and then try changing the fuel filter. It is a cheap thing to try.