FlyingEL

Paul, what do you meant by wouldn't be good? Fuel efficiency or power wise?

It is indeed a awesome sound and with real new V6 soundtrack. Why I said that with the fuel consumption because, I tried to change gear early like below 2500rpm for almost 5day. I drive like I normally would with the OEM air box, I still see myself going to the petrol station sooner. Any one with a CAI have this problem?

Anyone tried BMC before? I saw this in the Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190411176849#ht_1221wt_911). I don't like the JW pop charger, but maybe the Stillen air box. How does this compare between the BMC and the stillen air box setup with a K&N. They are both oiled cotton filter. After taking out my Trust Panel filter for cleaning, I temporary install a Apexi pod (without any shield) on the car for a week. OMG, the Sound and power I get after 3000rpm was intoxicating. I know to have a open filter setup in QLD is illegal, so I'm thinking either the BMC or the stillen box. I also find that with the pod filter, the car tends to drink more too. Manage only 500km/tank instead of the normal 600km.

I have change my Manual box oil recently. You can try Motul Gear 300. It can be used for both box. I was recommended Royal Purple for my gearbox, by this autobarn guy, as they ran out of Motul. I can say not totally happy with the purple. It's works ok after a few km during early morning cold start, but during the 1st set of traffic lights I pull up. Always have difficulty put it into 1st gear, sometimes 2nd gear too. After the oil has warm up, then It do feels very smooth. I have yet to change my Diff oil, so I guess you can try some other and we'll see how. The purple does seems to be much thicker than the old oil I took out. Quite a lot of metal filing can be seen from my old oil, but maybe the oil got so old that it has thin out. It's recommended by nissan to putting 75W-80 for gearbox and 80W-90 for Diff. The Royal Purple and Motul are both 75W-90.

No worries, but the problem with the auto up and the window still pops down automatically still there. I have yet to see if the window still pop down also when I close the door. I can't get that to be fix, bugger.

WHy do you change it to the OEM HID setup?

After spending some hours yesterday again on the motor, I still couldn't find the reset switch. After giving another clean, finally now the window do go up when the door close.

Just for your info. Mit GDI only take in 100 octane fuel. That's why a lot of country around the world didn't get the car Mit Made with GDI engine, as most countries do not have 100 octane fuel for sale. As far as I know, GDI cars are only available in Japan (of course) and Singapore in the South East Asia region. So Buying a import would be a mistake. Bare in mind, GDI technology is totally different from VW's FSI or Afla's JTS. Here is the read up: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_direct_injection

I found it on Pg 10.... Ok mine is working like new again after doing the simple reset. I thought I was gonna have to take out all of the bolts again but Nissan/Infiniti made it easy to reset the motor. I dont know if I missed it, but to do the reset remove the 3 bolts holding the panel and it is behind the smaller sticker on the metal door piece. Remove the sticker and its a little nipple poking out. With the door open roll the window completely up without using the auto function. (Barely lift up until the window rolls up. Close the door with you inside the vehicle. Hold the reset button down while you press the window switch down to roll the window down. Do not use the auto roll down. After rolling it completely down give it a couple seconds and then release both buttons. Now you roll the window completely up without using the auto function and give it a couple of seconds before releasing. Now you should be good. Roll down the window to open the door from the outside.

Haha, I was reading it the same thing. But where is the window regulator reset switch?

Where is the Window sensor? After taking apart the whole door, and reached the motor. Clean the brushes, what else can I do? How do I clean the sensor? Anyone has a pic to show me?

HI I manage to find sometime today to give this a try. I did take out the internal motor to give it a good clean. I used an eraser instead of the sand paper (was taught from the days of playing RC cars), give everything black a good clean. But After I assembled everything back, The same problem still there. When I auto close the window, once the window reaches the top, it will wind down 4". And when i close the door, the window doesn't go up & down. Anything I did wrong?

There's a sticker on my bonnet that was translated from Jap says change oil and oil filter every 12,000km. I always been using only fully Syn Oil. And the old oil still looked good after 12,000km. I don't drive hard much and usually travel 80kmh or more.

There's a sticker on my bonnet that was translated from Jap says change oil and oil filter every 12,000km. I always been using only fully Syn Oil. And the old oil still looked good after 12,000km. I don't drive hard much and usually travel 80kmh or more.

When I got my car, I thought my car got no 3rd brake light. but after taking it apart, I found the light is cover with black tape. I wonder why, funny.

Thanks, I'll give it a go this weekend. and see how it goes.

Hi, recently I got a problem with my windows. It 1st started when I use the auto UP the close the window but after it fully closed, it will fall back down about 30%. I thought it's some kind of sensor that prevent the window crushing your fingers. And it will close when I manually close it. But recently, it got worse. It will sometime open 30% when my passenger closes the door. Anyone experience this? Do I need to change the motor or just some setting? Can Chris help?

Huh? I though you have to take the whole bumper out and then you can get the headlights off. I think that will be easier but take longer time.

I have a spare V35 battery lying around, anyone wants it for free?

I have the same problem with you, prdreilly. The car was sold to me with a halogen bulb head light. I too found some kind of spacer/adapter for the H3C halogen bulb. It's glued in place so Using a screwdriver, twist and lift will pop the spacer/adapter out. You will need the 3 part for the HID to work. My car came with the ballast, the clipped power pin but missing the Igniter. Got them from Ebay (which is not cheap) and the HID D2R bulb (price depend on what brand you choose). Connect the wire from the halogen setup to the power pin of the HID. I bought a 6000k but I think 4700k give a better lighting. By the way, I do have an extra PIAA 4900k H4 bulb for your high beam/spot light for sale. PM me.

Personally, I feel HKS filter is crap. If you look around in the web, you will see that they do let in a lot of dust particle into the engine.

Actually I have seen one in 350Z, but it looked much better. looked OEM, but this is horrible.

Actually, if you just want a better cornering car, why not leave the shock & spring but change the sway bar or Anti roll bar? Actually that's what I'm going to do. I think the car is already low enough and ride is not too hard. I'll like to keep the comfort but a better cornering car.

Very true....well said

Now a day, you can get cheaper coilover. I think if you search Ebay. you can get Tien for about $1k. They do not have the fully adjustable flexibility but you are not going on track. Tien Spring tend to be on the softer side too. Check them out.