Nick378

to the top!

Every price are in CAD dollar, forgot to mention Turbo with small end play, works #1. Comes with 90 deg turbo inlet and oil feed line ------- 300$ OEM injector ------- 25$ each OEM fuel pump ------ 80$ SMIC with piping ------- 100$ OEM water pump ------- 60$ OEM oil pump ------- 70$ ECU -------- 130$ OEM rod with pin ------- 30$ each OEM piston with rings (4 lefts) -------- 40$ each A/C OEM system, I have everything you need to install it on your car and everything's working fine ------ 180$ OEM bov ------- 30$ 4 ply 90 degree 2,25'' to 2,5'' blue ------- 15$ Reasonnables offers are accepted. Paypal (add 3% for charge) or local pickup accepted. Willing to ship anywhere at buyer expanse!

Yep I guess it will be around 600$ USD in machining and no labour since I'm doing it by myself.

It's a local shop here in Canada. They don't have any website I think. If so, I don't know about it!

Actually, I might change for a GT3582R cause I have some issue with mine. If the piston drop the compression to 8,5:1, what headgasket's thickness should I get?

Sorry I have'nt told you before, actually I'm from Canada. Yep everything is new! Got them from an import shop in Calgary!

Well I just ran into a sick deal! CP Pistons 8,5:1 Eagles Rods with ARP bolts on Calico Main & Rod bearing N1 oil pump N1 water pump For 1850 USD + tax! I'll add to this: Tomei headgasket (thickness yet unknown...) OEM Timing belt OEM full gasket kit New Valves springs ARP Main stud kit and maybe i'll throw in some cam... What do you think?

Ok, for now, I'm doing 450 RWhp but i think i maxed out the turbo's capacity (t3-t04e) My goal is to run a reliable 460rwhp and i might change the turbo for a gt40r next year to get 600rwhp or so. So i need a bottom end that can handle that much power. Maybe rb30? I'm going to take the car at the track but it's more a street car than anything else..

Hi, i just pulled out my rb25det and i need a rebuild! I need advice on part i could use, to have the best internals possibles considering my budget. I have around 3000 to do it. It's an average I could spend 4000 I don't know.. (In CAD) I'll surely bore to 87mm. Was thinking about eagle rods with arp bolts. Cp piston 8,5:1 compression. 1,3 mm headgasket Arp headstud Acl crank bearing and rod bearing N1 oil and water pump I'm willing to take any idea! Thx a lot. Is a stroker kit possible??

i droped 20w50 valvoline non synthetic today and it's way better!! The engine is running very well and the smoke is almost gone. I know it doesn't solve the problem but i think i could do a while whit the engine! I fund another one to rebuild. This way i won't lose my car for 3 weeks!

i won't chase anykind of power. I still have 454 whp at 19 psi. But i run that power on a oem rb25det so i will have to buy a tomei headgasket and arp stud for sure. I think i'll go with oem bearing and ring since i have no money left. I need it for the university Maybe you have a better idea. My compression tester is very old but i did it last summer and i had 145 on all cylinder with the same tester. So there is obviously something going wrong. Any idea on the kind of oil i can run to make the motor last a little bit longer? I won't push it to the limit no more. I run the boost controller off at 10 psi. My idea is to run it a couple of week with thicker oil while i'm buying the parts for the rebuild. I just have to make sure i won't break something else like my head or my turbo. I think i can do the rebuild without spending more than 1400$

Alright guys... i will begin to save for a rebuild. I will do it by myself so it won't be too pricy. While i put the money aside, i will run the car no matter what i have no choice... do you have any advice on the kind of oil i can run? I was thinking about a thicker oil like 5w50 non synthetic. But i'm not too sure... As for the rebuild. What do i need to buy exactly? Main bearing, new ring, connecting rod bearing, head asket, arp stud, what else? Thx for your help guys it's more than appreciate

I'll look at the first and second point this afternoon. Someone else told me about the blow by and told me that a catch can would be effective. What is the best catch can setup for my case? I think the turbo has shaft play because of the oil he's absorbing, oil that don't have to be here.

Hey guys i have a major issue with my car i think. Here it is: each time i'm going in boost (over 4300 rpm) and i release the accelerator, there's a cloud of purple/blue smoke that come out. I thinked first that it was the turbo's seal but i don't think since it's the 3rd turbo i put in and i still have the problem. Fact i know. There's always oil in my intake piping (where the maf is) before the turbo. I took a compression test. 110 psi on all cylinder and 140 psi with oil in. Turbo (journal bearing) have a small shaft play after only 10 minutes of running. Maybe it's normal for a journal bearing, if not, i don't know what can cause this. So what do you suggest? Change the motor? i got stock internal on my setup so it's not a issue for me. Can i still run the car with ticker oil? maybe 5w50 without killing my turbo again? I know that with 110 psi, the engine is gone. but what can explain the oil in the intake piping and the turbo shaft play? Thx if any of you have some clues.. i'm totally lost and without money...

remapped z32!