Neejay
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Posts posted by Neejay
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Hmm...I have one fan that comes on with the ignition and one that's on a manual switch. I typically turn the second one on at around 170. I've taken my front bumper off and I never get over 180f now. I'm thinking about getting a vented hood now.
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I need the oem turbo and exhaust manifold heat shields and hardware (if possible).
I also need someone to be willing to ship to USA
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Do you know if the R32 turbo and manifold heatshields will fit a R33 manifold/turbo? And if not, would you happen to have them + hardware?
Will you ship to USA?
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i had an issue with my car running hot and it was sitting at 93 degrees and the std clutch fan wasn't fully engaged at that temp.
if you are starting to run hot you will hear the roar of the clutch fan as it fully engages. but even it fully engages well before you are at critical temps.
I don't have a clutch fan, just dual 12" Flex-a-lite fans.
I had to raise the rear of the hood/bonnet. It helps when city driving, but causes the engine to run hot @ 93C on the highway. I pulled off the exit and raised the hood with the car running and you can instantly see the temp drop via aftermarket water temp gauge.
I don't have the stock heatshields on the manifold or turbo (need to buy some) and I'm going to have take the bumper off until I can get my hood vented or buy a vented hood.
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Depending on what loom you have running the Rb25, it shouldnt be an exception.
Whats wrong with 88deg?
Oh, for some reason I was under the impression that the temp shouldn't get over about 82C. I just searched more on here and see some people run 90C+...guess I was mis-informed.
ok well firstly closed loop is when it runs leaner, open loop is when it uses more fuel (but doesn't dump it in). pretty much any time you accelerate at over about 1/3 throttle you will be in open loop.secondly the thermostat won't be affecting closed or open loop, it will be the cold start enrichment (basically the same as what a choke does on a caby engine). however i doubt that the slightly lower temp of the thermostat will have an effect on that. you car normally runs a few degrees above the actual thermostat temp.
why are you wanting to change it? if your car is running at 88 degrees with your current thermostat i see no need to change. that is by no means high. you could get them up close to 100 degrees and still not be too worried.
Ah, cool. Thanks for the correct information.
or if the heat is an issue get a better radiator.There's already hardly enough room as is. This radiator + e-fan setup is already running cooler than the other thicker radiator I originally had.
I guess I'm not getting too hot then. Thanks a lot guys! I'm going to re-bleed the motor just in case.
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I've researched and I've noticed that there are a lot of people against using the Nismo thermostat on a street driven car. Temps here are about 30-32C and my temps reach up to about 88C (FMIC, apexi cone filter, 3" turbo back exhaust, stock RB25 turbo, 10-11psi). My coolant system is a new water pump, R32 aluminum radiator, new OEM thermostat, 1 gallon 50/50 coolant/water mix, distilled water, 1 bottle of Redline Water wetter, dual 12" Flex-a-lite puller fans.
I've seen the argument that the nismo thermostat could cause closed loop mode (dumping fuel), but that's about it. Is it not recommended on a R33 GTS-T because it's a STOCK? Would it be an exception if it's in a silvia/180sx chassis since the RB is crammed in there?
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Did you ever solve this? Im having the EXACT same problem.
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Did you ever solve the problem? I'm having kinda the same issue.
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The kit and flush solution was about $15 from pepboys.
I would suggest trying again to remove that block bolt, I've found that a lot of gunk accumulates back there and the only way to remove it is to remove the bolt & flush.
One more question before I attempt this tomorrow (I just installed a FMIC and now my temps reach about 195F/90C):
When you did the flush, did you remove the block drain plug? I tried using a cordless impact wrench, and that wouldn't even work.
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Well I ended up getting a Prestone back flush kit and radiator cleaning solution and flushed quite a bit of gunk out of the system. I have flushed the engine before installing but I guess over time more loosened and was clogging the coolant system. I also used a bottle of redline water wetter and I can happily say at idle I can get temps down to 80c with just one fan.
Thanks for all input!
I need to do this as well. I have/had quite a bit of rust in my system. I flushed most of it out when I drained the radiator, but I can't get to the block drain bolt. So I just kept flushing the radiator.
Are you in the USA? How much did that Prestone flush kit cost?
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Mine stays around 85-86C with just city driving + rear of the hood raised (temporarily, to fit the engine).
I have one puller 12" fan, and one pusher 12" fan + aluminum radiator. 1 set to come on around 83C and the other one is on a manual switch...for now.
When I get the car back from the shop I'll be hooking up a DiF unit.
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Does anyone know of any hard pipe intakes available to buy WITH the nipples for the bpv and blow-by scavenging?
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Yeah sounds like your AAC is stuck open or the regulator is faultyPull the plug on and off to see if theres a drop/increase in revs.
What if there is a drop or increase in revs? Which is supposed to happen?
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Water temp sensor.
Cold Start Air valve.
ECU coolant temp sensor was also mentioned by someone else. Thanks.
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The car cranks right up on cold start. Once I drive around and/or it reaches normal operating temp, turn the car off, then immediately try to turn it back on, it doesn't start until I blip the gas pedal.
Any ideas? (RB25)
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Had I seen your thread earlier, I would have suggested the plugs. The crap that was fitted to my C34 for compliance (Autolites) made my car start & idle slow (occasionally stalling just after startup), and the idle would also sometimes drop off when slowing to a stop. I cleaned the AAC (which was spotless) without improvement. Changing the plugs to good-ol NGK (I spent up big & got the platinum - copper plugs weren't on the list where I bought them from at the time) fixed the problem 100% and it hasn't misbehaved in the 4 years since.
That's pretty much what happens with mine. I'm using NGK bcpr6es-11 gapped down to .8mm What plugs are you using?
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yes but everything else in this thread says you should do the PCV valve as well...
Simple. Few options here:
#1) PCV valve + exhaust side valve cover -> T-fitting -> catch can -> intake pipe [block intake manifold nipple for PCV]
#2) PCV valve + valve covers (separate hoses) -> catch can -> intake pipe [3 high ports required on catch can; block intake manifold nipple for PCV]
#3) Stock PCV valve setup; exhaust side valve cover -> catch can -> intake pipe
Obviously #3 is the easiest.
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Can someone please just confirm that running the catch can atmospherically that it wont be causing any vacuum leaks and explain to me why blocking the PCV is necessary to run it atmospherically? wouldn't my idea achieve the same thing? maybe if someone explained to me what the purpose of the PCV is in the first place i could understand....
You'd have to get an inline PCV valve and put it in between that filter device and the intake manifold...otherwise the glass filter thing will see boost and burst. So it'd be [intake manifold -> inline pcv valve -> glass filter -> valve cover where old pcv valve was]
You can do either or, or do both. The glass filter deal would filter out gunk going into the intake manfiold, and having a catch can in between the valve cover and intake pipe would filter out gunk from getting into the intake piping.
I'm not going to mess with the PCV valve side for now...I replaced my PCV valve with a new one. Old one was clogged, causing smoke. I'm just going to set one up like I described a few posts back (both valve covers -> T fitting right before catch can nipple 1 -> catch can nipple 2 -> intake piping
Hi Guys,I want to run a "100% plum back" setup for my new RB25, but the most fittings I can seem to find on a catch can is 3 (seems to always be 1 down low and 2 up high). Would the following set up work?
Basically block the hole where the PCV valve goes into the cam cover, then both cam covers run to the catch can by a single hose (regardless of under boost or not).
Then one outlet runs back to the plenum (with the PCV Valve put in line) for when the engine is not under boost, and one outlet back to the intake pipe for when it is under boost.
I dont see the point in running an extra line from the hole where the PCV value goes into the cover to the catch can, as the air can get back to the catch can via the other line anyway...
Cheers,
Martin
With the ports like that, it will clog. When it catches the oil, it will block the lower ports.
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Can someone please tell me what hose they use to connect the catch can? And where you can get it.
Catch cans typically come with one hose already (at least from the 2 I've bought). I took it to a store that sells everything for houses and went to the plumbing section, and matched the hose that came with the catch can.
I would probably go to an auto parts store and buy some stronger rubber hoses though, as heat can make the original hose flex and possibly melt (these hoses are plastic; the clear ones with fiber threading)
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woops sorry i forgot to post the pic
this is the filter i was talking about
That works...but depending on how much blow-by you get, seems like you'd have to change it quite a bit right?
Yeah it's the same as I run mine too. Wouldn't having the catchcan filter in the airbox almost defeat the purpose of removing oil/vapour from the intake stream?Yeah, what I have is a pod in a cold air box and the filter on a length of hose directed away from the pod. When I get a chance i'll probably run the hose back out of the air box and out of the engine bay. Just waiting for some weld on AN fittings and it will all be done in braided line.Be careful with that filter on the end. I've read where numerous people have reported that the oil vapors will eventually clog inside the tiny filter and cause a blockage. Why not just run the atmosphere hose down below the chassis without the filter?
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the way your describing it makes the catch can sound kinda of pointless really but maybe i'm understanding it wrong
and what benefit would capping the pcv valve rather than than putting a filter like i described have? the way i see it, the pcv valve is there for a reason isnt it?
No, it's basically like what you currently have, but instead of the hose going to the other valve cover, it will go straight towards the catch can, then BOTH valve hoses will combine via T fitting right before going into the catch can.
A filter instead of the PCV valve cap will cause fumes and look less clean, in my opinion. I may try to find a plug and just take out the PCV valve all together.
EDIT: If you have a 2nd picture, I can't see it. What filter thing are you talking about?
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I'd like to revive this dead thread cause i am confused as hell right now
this is how i have mine hooked up (I got it this way from japan)
So i'm thinking about running the atmospheric setup shown on in this thread and putting one of these types of filters between the PCV and the intake manifold, but the one thing that is leaving me in doubt is that some people claim that the atmospheric setup creates a vacuum leak in the system.... So what is it, will it or wont it create a leak?
i used to use one of those filters on my old car between the pcv and the IM and it worked great, collected allot of oil
Opinions?
I never got a response, so I'm going to run mine similar to yours, but I'll run 2 hoses separately from the valve covers -> T fitting as close as possible to the catch can -> into the catch can + stainless-steel scrubbing -> and out to the intake pipe. I think I'm going to just cap off the PCV valve and the intake manifold nipple.
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Wow! My RB25 is doing the EXACT same thing! I'm going to try cleaning the AAC valve tomorrow and doing an idle adjustment. I'm also going to check the timing.
Please update if you figure out the problem!
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Does anyone know the part number for the little black pieces of plastic that the fuel rail bolts to? I've lost one of them apparently.
Nismo Thermostat: Swapped Silvia/180sx Allowed?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
Fans are dual 12" FALs, has its own shroud. It's a brand new R32 aluminum radiator. Water pump is brand new oem (done at the time of the swap, less than a year ago.