DanShirts
-
Posts
160 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by DanShirts
-
-
Hey man, wheels look good..could have gone a few mm lower, but Im a fan of low offset
Funky, yours look good too. Maybe a slightly skinnier rims with lower offset would be good, avoid having to use spacers?
I wanted to go +25, But I couldn't find any that I liked.
(You were responding to me, right?)
-
17x8+28 on 235/45/17 all around. No flair. No rub.
-
I JUST CHECK, I DON'T EVEN HAVE THE 75A FUSE, IT'S EMPTY.. What should I do?
What GTR do you have? The R32 GTR doesn't have a 75A main fuse. Check the main battery cables. Check the grounds.
-
Mine had one of those in it too, it had the ends cut off and soldered together.. I don't know for sure, but I think it was the fuel pump resistor.
Also, nice to see another Cef on this continent. That makes three that I know of.
-
There is a back wire coming from the main engine loom that earths to the ignitor housing. It ohms out to 0.5. Everything else is good.
I don't see it on the wiring diagrams. Any idea where it goes?
Just talking to myself again...
Spoke to an auto-elec. He says that the wire is OK to measure 0.5 because it looks like it provides ground to another device. I'm just reading the resistance of whatever that device is (probably a circuit in the ECU).
Also, he said to replace the batter cables (because it's cheap) and to test the coils and coil loom after the car is warmed up. What an eye opener to talk to someone who really understands electronics.
Any other thoughts?
-
Factory o2 sensors are narrowband, so nothing you can get from the ECU will help. You need a wideband to read mixture. Try searching for wideband here and in Forced Induction.
Nah, you can wire one up. It wont be very accurate, but you can get some disco lights going on. (And girls like the disco lights.)
-
What if his is stuck open/closed or leaking? That happened to me.. I'm using the massive Type-R single now. It was cheaper than buying 2 smaller ones.
-
Just don't turn off your car!
Open up the manual for your alarm and see if there is a way to re-connect the remote. It might be called 'remote pairing' or 'remote synchronizing'. I haven't seen any intermittent problems like this. But my S14 remotes would stop working if the batteries went flat and I didn't change them right away.
(You might get better answers in the alarm section.)
-
Ok cool. How bout your motor, What do u use in it?
To be honest, I have no idea! I live next door to a shop. I fix their computers and they do free oil changes.. I just know it's a full synthetic and it's not purple.
-
Its a long shot but have you checked the earths, battery terminals and alternator output? Have a look at the ecu plug too, try disconnecting and reconnect making sure the plug goes on nice and square as your tightening it.
There is a back wire coming from the main engine loom that earths to the ignitor housing. It ohms out to 0.5. Everything else is good.
I don't see it on the wiring diagrams. Any idea where it goes?
-
I use it in my R32 GTR. Trans and both pumpkins. I get the occasional 4th gear crunch, but it was worse before I switched.
-
It is a mostly stock 89 R32 GTR. Basic bolt on mods; intake, zorst, gutted cat, boost is at 1 bar.
Here we go.. I've been having this problem off and on since I bought the car 8 months ago. It misfires below 4k rpm AND there is boost. No boost, no miss. It might be missing above 4k, I just stop feeling and hearing it around that point. It is also running slightly rich. I don't have a wide band so I can't exactly how rich. Idle bounces a little from 850-950.
Since I bought the car I have changed: plugs (twice), fuel filter, ignitor, air filters, turbos (stock R33), all exhaust gaskets, Lambda (O2) sensors, PCV, ECU, some broken vacuum hoses, and all fluids.
The first set of plugs I used were NGK BKR7E. They looked a little sooty after 6 months. I replaced them with NGK BCPR7ES. Tried gapping at 1.0, 0.8, and 0.6. It runs best at 0.8.
No boost leaks. I have cleaned & resoldered the MAFs. TPS measures 0.47v at 0% throttle and 3.96v at 100%. Coils ohm out between 0.8 and 0.9 and I didn't see any cracks them. I swapped coils around and pulled coils one at a time. It doesn't seem to be any one cylinder. I have done a motorvac on it (kind of like running straight injector cleaner).
Every time I cleaned or replaced a part, it helped. But it didn't clear up. I'm at the end of my mechanical ability. What can I do next?
Sorry if this has been covered before. I searched, but everyone else fixed misfires by cleaning the MAFs or closing boost leaks.
-
The worst part is the bit of plastic that surrounds the radio itself is part of the same piece of plastic that extends under the dash and down the side of the gearstick surround. Is that how it is on the Laurel too?
How do I get the radio out of a Laurel?
Edit: Just had a brainwave and looked it up on FAST.
This is going to be a right bastard of a job
Looks like the front piece hooks in under the rear one which needs to come out first, and that's bloody hard to do as the chair blocks access to two of the screws.
What I didn't know about is the false floor in the storage pocket that hides two more screws.
The handbrake release leaver is going to cause problems too.
Oh joy.
Ah, automatic.. Have fun!
-
Well, I took the ashtray out, undid the 4 screws that are hiding in that area.
Got the gearstick surround out and now I'm stuck, there appears to be something holding it in place at the back of the gearstick where the two halves joined.
I undid the 6 screws holding that surround to the transmission tunnel and the back section (by the rear ashtray) can lift up but is stuck at the join in the middle, and the front section can't move at all, and again appears to be stuck at the join in the middle.
What now?
I think this is everything. Correct me if I'm wrong.
-
On most Jap cars I've worked on, you took the radio out by first pulling off the surround from around the gearstick, then pulling out the facia from around the radio itself, from there you could access the screws that hold the radio in.
Doesn't seem to work on the Ceffy, there must be a screw hidden somewhere that I haven't found. What do I do?
This tape player is doing my head in as I only own one tape and the radio uses the wrong frequencies and thus can only pick up Radio 2 or some encrypted air traffic control stuff.
Sounds like you're doing it right. Did you get the screw behind the ash tray?
-
Isn't the usual trick over there to acquire the VIN plate from a crashed 240SX and then "repair" your 240SX by welding in a Skyline shaped chassis around the remaining part of the 240?
Did you get the Ceffy registered at all? Presumably as a Maxima.
I don't even want to talk about all the hoops I had to jump through for registration. Lets just say I don't want to go through that again. Ever.
-
Eww Train Fitment on GTR looks silly sally!
Sure does! But they were free. And that's all I can afford right now!
-
Are you allowed to drive it on the road if it's right hand drive?
Right hand drive isn't a problem. We have crazy emissions and safety laws that take a large mountain of paperwork and money to comply with. I still haven't been able to get the R32 registered.
-
Nice looking cars, bet you get some strange looks with the ceffy? even if it's a track only car lol
Most people think it's just a funny looking car but there are a few that are almost hostile about it.. I usually get harassed by the V8-Muscle-Car guys when I go to the track. But they are beginning to respect RB motors!
-
I've got an 89 A31 (and an 89 R32). Cefiros are rare in the US. I only know of one besides mine. I plan on drifting it.
Some info:
Factory 5-speed
Cheap ebay front mount ic
Custom exhaust
Bosch 040 fuel pump
KSRom ECU - Was already in the car, don't know the tuning
Custom one-piece drive shaft
Cusco coilovers on the front & Tein on the back. - Getting replaced with Powered-by-Max coilovers
Z32 brake & 5-lug conversion
Braided brake lines
Stock r32 wheels on the front & 17x8 +30 Work Equips on the back
-
Here's a couple of my new Ceffy with my old and new rims on
Old:
Temp:
New:
Cheers
Phill
Those look great! What size & offset? What tire size? How much cutting/rolling did you have to do?
-
yeah, i wish moving was an option.
as far as the sr20 02 sensor if anyone can back this up, i have friends with these motors laying around.
Off the subject, anyone have the part# for the oil filter or can i use the 300zx, and how much motor oil is used for the oil change?
sorry for all the newbie ?'s
You might want to do some more research, but my best guess on an O2 would be a Z31 turbo or an S13. The connector will probably be different, but you can switch out pins.
I used a 96 J30 oil filter on my RBs. I think it's the same as the S14 KA too.
-
Got it fixed. The relay connector was bad, but that wasn't the problem. The 12v wire that goes to the steering angle sensor had a break right next to the connector. Patched and running strong!
Thanks for all the help!
-
One of the relays in the boot is having trouble. It clicks about once every 30 seconds. It's very quiet and I wouldn't have noticed it if didn't get into the boot when the car was running.
Part number 25230-05U00. Fast calls it is the "Anti Skid Relay". I'm pretty confident that this relay (or the wiring or whatever it's connected to) is the problem. I will post again when I have more information.
Intermittent Misfire. Low Rpm + Boost.
in General Maintenance
Posted
Pulled another earth wire from battery to ignitor and also jump it down to the aluminum rail that the coils bolt to. Remade some joints that looked questionable. That one wire measured 0. Went for a drive, no improvement.
I borrowed a set of split fire coils. Still no improvement.
I'm still going to get new battery leads, but I don't think my problem is with earths at this point.
So I've been thinking.. Fuel pressure regulator? Leaky injector? Ignition signal from the ECU? CAS?
I'll check all those out next weekend. Anything else I can try?