skyla
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Posts posted by skyla
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along with the already mentioned differences is the type s has hicas and a rear sway bar, where the non type s don't, also the badges on the front guard are different colours, type-S has the red GT badges where's the non type S has blue.
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you need to be a member of the the nissan silvia forums to view the post.
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what mods you got atm?
Suspension & brake mods,
Bilstein shocks
King springs
whiteline sway bars front and rear
strut braces front and rear
adjustable caster arms
Slotted front rotors
Mintex 1166 race pads (front only)
Engine, ecu & exhaust,
K & N air filter (pod)
Custom cold air box
Custom 3" intake pipe
GTS Link ECU
extractors
2 1/2" exhaust system (no cat)
Walbro fuel pump
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I unfortunately don't have any videos, but I have a R33 GTS25 sedan that is used for circuit racing/hill climbs/ auto crosses and motokahnas, the relability of the car has been absolutely brilliant, it's done close on 240,000km now and is still going pretty well considering.
The only real gripes I have with the car is on the circuit it could certaily do with a bit more power on the straights, and in the motokahna events it's one hell of a big car to throw around when the cones are so close.
When taking part in ciruit events I can ususally finish in the first 33% of the field depending on the track, so with the right suspension mods the GTS25 can do fairly well.
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some have hicas some don't, it all depends on the options.
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Model - R32 GTS-T (old DET engine died after 356,000km)
Engine - RB20DE
Modifications / Parts Used - R33 S1 RB25DET Turbo, factory RB20DET actulator, Custom low mount extractors, Factory RB20DET inlet manifold and injectors, custom 3" dump pipe, custom 3" exhaust (very straight), walbro fuel pump, sard adjustable fuel pressure regulator, turbo smart plumb back BOV, 450x300x75 front mount intercooler, K & N pod filter
Engine Management Used - factory RB20DET ecu
Fuel Used - shell 95
Boost Used - 9psi
Dyno Tune Results - 175 rwkw or 234rwhp @ 6550RPM
Misc- Most of the parts we already had lying around waiting to be fitted or were fitted to the original DET engine before it died, only brought the 3" exhaust and the extractors for this build
Dyno Graph dyno graph shows the old RB20DET engine in red before it died, and the blue is the RB20DE+T results
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Gosh i hate dyno's that put in kmph instead of rpm.
What are the RPM differences?
use to hit full boost at a round 3000rpm now hits full boost at 3800rpm, are you using a RB25DET turbo?
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Define Lag?
starts boosting much later than it use to, you can see the difference on the dyno sheet I put up.
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Interesting. I have all the mods you have except the FPR. And possibly some differences in the FMIC and exhaust.
Running 10psi im only making 170rwkw.
I wonder where the difference is at. >.>
When you say low mount exhaust manifold, is that a custom, or the standard?
It's a custom one the same as this one http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-193405843.htm
The FMIC we have is 450x300x75, do you have much lag? we have quite a bit
here's a dyno print out of our RB20DE+T, not the best looking graph, was dynoed using 95 ron fuel
have since started running E10 bio fuel and the car runs heaps smoother and is more responsive. Current results are in the blue, red results was with the old RB20DET before it died. -
We're running 9psi on our RB20DE+T using RB20DET actulator on a RB25DET turbo, stock RB20DET ecu and injectors, FMIC, walbro fuel pump and sard FPR, low mount exhaust manifold, custom 3" dump pipe and full 3" exhaust. Engine was dyno tuned to 175rwkw, timing was retarded to 8 degrees and fuel pressure was set to 40psi.
She survived a track day and 25,000km so far with out any problems.
NA engines can handle more boost than what most people think it all comes down to the tune.
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I was lucky enough to get a look at this build today it looked and sounded like it really means business. Will be interesting to see how it goes at the trackday.
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good stuff, can't wait to hear it in person once it's tuned. are you getting it tuned this week?
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If I lived in Australlia I'd be in, but I'm located in NZ and by the time you do a currancy conversion and factor in shipping costs, things don't look quite so appealing and the price is on par with what we pay locally
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How exactly does one get the induction sound with a N/A?
I've got induction noise, with a custom 3" intake pipe, that gets rid of the resonator and a pod filter. It's quite a different sound to what you get with a turbo charged car. You get a sucking sound at idle, you can't hear any induction noise through low and mid range, but up top she fair screams, my car has more induction noise at high RPM than what it's got exhaust noise.
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Thanks guys, umm there seems to a few of different sorts available theres those that run a thermostat and those that don't, the ones without the thermostat is quite a bit cheaper. The one I'm interested in is a 10 row coller with a filter relocation kit, but doesn't have a thermostat, would this be suitable for my car? or would I be better to spend the extra $$ on a slightly bigger cooler and get one that comes with a thermostat?
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I've done a search to see if I can find the info I was looking for, but didn't have any luck, so was wondering if any of you happen to know what size oil cooler would be best suited for a RB25DE.
I do bit of work on the track and oil temps tend to creep up after a while, so I've had a look at some of the oil cooler kits available and there's quite a range of sizes avaiable, but don't know which would be best suited for my application.
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heres the reason for the remap question.
i have a panel filter as ive said, BUT i also have aported and polished head and coby d12's now each of these are small changes in them selves but the sum of all of them amy well have put the car just outside of the parameters the ecu can deal with as stock.(???)
i am wondering about this for the specific reason that when cold the engine would rev up to 2000 on idle, and when dipping the clutch would rise revs. sometimes hunts too as if the ecu is trying figure out settings.
doesnt do this all the time its an odd occasion ..and confusingly less so since ive had the 4wd fixed.....so i wonder if the transmission wieght has a bearing...(though starting clutch in and clutch out makes no difference.
if the engies running lean shes gonna get hot too with obvious consequences
I while back I had a similar issue when my car was cold the idle would hunt around and settle down once the car got warm, I spent ages trying to find out what was wrong I ended up tracking the issue down to the AFM, all I did was give it a clean with throttle body cleaner and the problem dissapeared. Could be worth having a look at if you haven't done so already.
Just curious, if you are concerned about how lean your car is running, have you had your car on a Dyno to see what the A/F ratios are doing and what heat range spark plugs are you running?
In my experience the RB25DE N/A engine seems to be fairly resistant to detonation.
I'll use my GTS25 as an example it has always run quite lean, although when I made the change from panel to pod it started running leaner, I got quite a shock when I did a power run on the dyno to see the A/F ratio was 15:1 at times with the pod, but luckily for me there was no pinking
I was given a few options to help remedy the too lean problem,
1), was by running an adjustable FPR and increasing the pressure at the rail.
2), was by using a R32 RB20DET ecu and getting it remapped to suit the R33 RB25DE application, I was told the only real draw back about doing things this way, if you are still modifyling your cars engine you would need to get the ecu remapped each time you made new modifications, (was told at the time you couldn't remap the R33 ecu)
3), was get an aftermarket ecu.
As my car is still a work in progress I decided to go for an aftermarket ecu and tune the ignition and fuel maps to suit, this also allowed me to ditch the troublesome AFM (note, no AFM in the pics I posted up) and work off TPS and a map sensor, sad to say it didn't give me any real noticable power gains (10 hp and a 15ftlb of torque), but allowed me to sort out my concerning A/F ratios and let me see just what was going on, by simply hooking it up to a lap top. The beauty with the ecu I got is future adjustments is as simple as hooking up a wideband o2 sensor and tuning the ecu on a hand held controller or lap top.
Don't know if this helps you out any, but food for thought none the less.
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The R33 RB25de gear box is the one you want as it's less hassle when it comes to getting the speedo sorted The R32 RB20DET gear box has a mechanical speedo drive (cable) where's the R33 is electric, they can be altered to suit though.
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R33 GTS4 Has the RB25DE engine and is 4WD, exterior and interior are the same as a GTS or GTS25, GTS25T
R32 GTS4 has the RB20DET engine and is 4WD, exterior and interior is the same as the GTE, GTS, GTS-T, GTS25
the main difference is the GTS4 is 4WD
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doesnt the heat shield have 2 be completley enclosed or sumtin 2 be legal???
I guess that depends on where you are located, I'm based in New Zealand and the modification laws are fairly relaxed compared to some countries.
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here's a couple taken from different angles
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When I first fitted the pod filter, I didn't do any thing, and there was no gains if anything the car seemed less responsive, specially on hot days and driving around the city, after the inital disaponitment I made a rather crude air box (not pretty but it works) to keep the hot air out, this made a noticeable difference and the car seemed much more responsive, My next step was a cold air feed directly under the pod, I didn't really notice any gains from doing this. If you would like to see a pic of my set up let me know and I'll post one up.
Hope that helps.
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My GTS25 sits at 3000rpm at 100k in 5th
The R33 comes standard with a 4.11:1 ratio diff. You should be sitting around 3000 @ 100km/hHmm interesting, I haven't yet to seen a GTS25 with a 4.11:1 ratio diff. All factory GTS25 manuals I"ve seen have a 4.3:1 ratio diff.
Easy way to tell what diff you have is by looking at the blue ID tag under the bonnet.
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If your car is a GTS25 your rotors will be 280 diameter, with max thickness of 26mm and min thickness of 24mm.
have since started running E10 bio fuel and the car runs heaps smoother and is more responsive. Current results are in the blue, red results was with the old RB20DET before it died.
Nz'ers! Show Yourselves!
in North Island
Posted
I'm living in katikati, and drive a 160hp R33 GTS25 sedan