rodger1
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Posts posted by rodger1
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You should ask hks what they think about using the rb30 bottom end with the 26 head and see what reasons they say why they don't use it, it's always made me wonder
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If it worked well having the smaller intercooler don't you think Nissan would be doing it? that's right they aren't because it isn't efficient. as we all know about car manufactures if they can build something cheaper that works the same they will
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grigor is that vl gear set out of an n/a or turbo?
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any updates on this one? will be good to see what she puts out
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Are these slightly out of focus pics. any help?
now that vl pump is that a turbo pump or a n/a pump as they have different part numbers. also when i rebuilt my rb30 i try'd to source a new pump from holden but
pretty much everything engine related is no longer avaliable so i took my vl turbo oil pump part numbers to nissan and got a new pump but i was told it was a common pump
ass it was a r32 gtr pump. i don't know if they we're originally or if they we're just revised to that but thats my 2cents
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nope, lots of highly modified hondas run half size radiators. they come factory with a half width radiator, so upgrade to an alloy thicker version. allows fitment of a large turbo.
ive seen the setup on evo's as well.
will have a search tonight for some examples.
surely if I use a core twice a thick as a standard radiator and made from a more heat conductive material, i can have the same cooling efficiency as a full width thin factory radiator?
I've seen them on a skyline but the only reason it was running one was it ran on alcohol which runs a lot cooler. they wouldn't work on a large engine car because they just don't have the cooling capacity for hot days in traffic. if you we're only going to use the car as a track car with sustained high speeds and good airflow over the core then maybe, they are not suited for everyday skylines
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As far as I know. There are plenty of engines that use can re-use the factory head bolt. RBs being one of them I've been told. The only ones I can think of that need replacing are 4L falcons and Older OHV V8s
They are also a two step process not 5 on these motors.
Whats I was really asking was are there any tricks of the trade some people may know to make life easier for myself, so as im not back on here a week after the engine goes back in the car asking why my head gasket didnt seal or what ever issues may arise.
I also dont mean to sound like an ass. But differnt motors have diffent ways of being put together and Im trying to find the right way to do things for the Nissan Donk beacuse after two days of searching the internet for info about it there are about 1500 different answers, and the only motors I''ve really played with are Ford And GM V8s
and as you would know holden v8's and fords use no thread locker on gasket sealer on the head gaskets also all holden engines in production today the head bolts are single use and use no aftermarket applyable thread locker the only engine that does use some type is the gen3 but again single use bolts.
rb30 head bolts are single use as well if you don't believe me read the workshop manual. but if your after "tricks of the trade" what have you measured? have you checked that the block and head are flat as they will 99% of the time be why head gaskets leak. you use a straight edge and feeler gauges and the next thing if the manual says single use we replace them it's as simple as that
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i probably wont need the 60 psi model but i expect to be running 30psi as i have relatively low compression I think i might go with the greddy it seems the best for the price. the eboost seems to do too much and i don't need all of that stuff. Thanks to all of you for your help.
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Hi I'm looking at a new electronic boost controller I'm currently looking at a new eboost 2, 60psi model I'm just wondering what otherr options are out there and around what prices they are.
By the way it's going on a rb30 with t04z and tial 44mm external gate. all i really want is good stable boost control with in cab adjustment and pressure gauge i think the eboost2 is a little pricey.
what are your thoughts on whats best
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your lucky you didn't hydralic lock it and snap some rods
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Acl sells heat shield packs which you just bend to fit the look factory style and work well you just drill holes for mounting bolts for them.
here is the link for the information page http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm I use this stuff it's pretty good for factory look
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It's not due out until September or so I thought last time I spoke to Andy.
does anyone have any idea how much the new one will cost, I was hearing word or it almost two years ago from mark at dat who sold me mine
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I thought i would join in and give you my experience as well.
I however have a supra 2jzgte with a gt42.
Long story short, i have very low power numbers for the size of turbo and boost im running, ive tried a lot of things, people were saying also valve float, small cams etc.. after replacing them, i am still having the same issue's.
My boost comes on hard at 5500rpm@26psi and thats where it makes its max HP, then just flat lines all the way to redline.
All the info is in the links here, i have posted my issue's on a fair few forums, so if you can be bothered, have a read what ive done, im pretty sure we may have a similar issue, also running a haltech e11 and having a hard time finding someone to tune it...
http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/sh....php?t=67205139
http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=37070
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=529982
Not sure if you'll be able to go on all of them, may need to sign up? and some are a very long read, but plenty of suggestions, just everything ive tried so far hasnt worked, very frustrating!
It really sounds like you need a new tuner, just one idea on your car is with the cat converter if it has no core in there it can cause a vortex and cause back pressure and power loss. I don't think this is your problem though I think that your problem is more likely to be a tuning or sensor problem I dont know much about 2j's except the make a lot of power but could it be a problem with your vvti not advancing the cams as it's meant to? let me know what you think
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how'd you go did you sort it out?
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Hey what did you find with the oiil pump? was it caused by the thrust bearing allowing the crank to move forward? If it was i would just double check the end float on the crank (thurst bearing clearance) so it doesn't happen again. Good Luck you Deserve a good motor after what you have been through
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It should hold pressure for start as other wise the pump has to build pressure before start , and easy way to check which side it's loosing pressure on is prime the pump and clamp the return line and if it drops it's on the feed side
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many people run standard i mean nissan head gaskets with no problem with massive boost and swear by them, I run a cometic steel head gasket and would recommend using one but don't wory about it until it's apart or till the gassket blows (highly unlikely unless there is a problem) I would use stock studs but arp might make something?
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If it's copper the don't seal water that well, great for compression but crap for water, what most people use is steel multi layer head gaskets copper are real old school. standard gaskets in rb30's have been used to 450rwkw+, most people only change from stock because they have the engine apart and why skimp out on a head gasket
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I heard the tuned length manifolds make no differrence due to all the bends they cause a restriction which makes them as good as any other and what makes those manifolds worth so much why not just get a six boost?
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Hi just wondering for those of you out there with a RB series engine and a crank collar fitted how was it done and is it possible to do it without removing the crank.
Thanks in advance
Greg
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vt gts has 300kw unless it's a series one and then it has 220kw so maybe it was a clubsport u raced
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in Forced Induction Performance
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can't you just put thicker washers under the squirters to space them down a little?