otto
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Posts posted by otto
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no its actually quite an old thread (1yr and 2 1/2 weeks to be exact hehe) 2006.
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BUMP
$14000 ono has 120,000km and brand new tyres
now has damage/scrape to sideskirt and the usual to bottom of front bar easy fix theyre fibreglass!
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Am thinking of selling my car i love it to death but insurance is to expensive and it stresses me out driving around without it. As stated its a 1993 R33 Gtst with..
#400r front bar and side skirts with M-spec rear pods (std s1 wing)
#Hks type-s fmic kit
#Full 3in turbo back exaust with h/f cat and 4.5in titanium cannon
#Rush 02 pod with heat shield and CAI
#Adjust ex cam gear 3.5 deg ret
#Bosch 910 fuel pump
#Safc II(dyno tuned 208.8rwkw)
#boost set 11psi(turboxs bleeder)+rb20 actuator
#C's short shifter
#2in autometer boost guage
#18in shadow chrome rims pedders springs lowered 1.5in
#brant 3pt imobalizer
#Solace f1 window tint
#Leather gear and hbrake boots
#Maroon in colour
#Done 105,000km (regularly serviced and had major service @ 100k)
Has manual and logbooks from japan complied in 2001 when it had 36000km (completly stock)and has been owned by me eva since
very clean car $19500ono.
Contact Shaun, 0414569024 or pm me for more details and pics
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I would be curious as to how quickly a motor would warm up if it were towed with the ignition off. My guess is a very very long time.
youve got him there cubes good point
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if you threw the plugs in straight out of the box i can pretty much garentee they will be gapped at 1.1 or atleast thats what ngk or champion or whatever was aiming for. there gaps are probably realisticly all over the place,
I always gap my plugs to .8 but if i wanted 1.1 ide still regap/check them myself and not just throw them in straight out of the box.
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if you do alot of short drives as opose to afew long drives fuel economy will suffer big time, just recently i moved closer to work so im only a 10min drive away so if all i do is drive to work my car is always running the richer(cold engine) maps as it doesnt get much time to warm up and my fuel economy has dropped from 450 odd km to 350 odd km's
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the wastegate is inadiquet (spelling)
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just thaught ide add my safc2 shows a knock of 10 at idle and the minute i put my foot down knock goes to zero (this is all on monitor as i ignore the other readings as they are not calibrated).
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how does adding a bigger exhaust create lag?
i don't find the exhaust too loud. the rear muffler is only 3", but i have a mate with the full x-force turbo back (3" front, dump and cat, then 3.5" cat back) and it isn't really any louder. it sounds sweet at full noise. burbles a little on deceleration though.
madd why does your exaust change size 3 times from turbo to tip i would have thaught keeping things the one size all the way through would be best
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where are you getting the pressure from at the moment your obviously getting it from somewhere if your car still runs 7psi, wastegate actuators dont operate on there own
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maybe the bleeder cant bleed enought and you need a restrictor in front. this would be better anyway cause the bleeder wouldnt have to work as hard to waste enough to get the same results.
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A lightened drivetrain wil rev more freely, meaning basically that you will speed up quickly. Imagine spinning a light bicycle wheel, campared to spinning a heavy car wheel. The light wheel is easier to get up to speed, but has less momentum, so wont spin for as long, provided the resistance and friction was the same as the heavier car wheel. Hence the lightened flywheel, and carbon driveshafts, lightweight racing wheels etc.
Less weight will give you better acelleration, but you lose torque, because there is less momentum in the engine, and in some cases youll actually perform less ie slowing down when you come to a hill, due to reduced inertia in the rotating mass of your engine. all physics, dude.
I didnt think something so small as a cam gear would matter much though...
KEWL so seeing as power is the rate at which you do work ie torquexrpm(laymans terms i know multiplying rpm by torque wont give you kw) and adding heavyer stuff to the rotating mass gives me more torque(apparently according to you) howmuch extra torque and power do you think i will get from adding an extra 20kgs to my flywheel??
Did you ever consider the losses involved in getting the rotating mass to turn adding weight to the rotating mass does nothing for the engines output torque or power just makes the enging take longer and more force to wind down which i quess can be considered torque but not the torque we are interested in...i think thats enough torque on talk or was it the other was around.
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Mods
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HKS Pod Filter
HKS Cat Back Exhaust
HKS EVC 5 boost controller @ 10 psi
Greddy Type R Blow Off Valve
Apexi SAFC-II
600x300x76 Autobahn88 Intercooler + fitting
Sard Fuel Pressure Regulator
Walbro 500hp Fuel Pump
This is mine
RPM Correction
4000 0%
4600 -1%
5200 -6%
5800 -10%
6400 -10%
7000 -10%
7600 -11%
hey does that mean they only used 6 load points??? they did the same thing with my car, i dont think may shops know how to or dont bother to bunch up the load point so you have all 12 where you need them and not where you dont ie, load points sitting ther doing noting where correction is zero
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ok so we know not to copy but ide like to know other peoples settings just out of interest
well ill start my correction begins at 3500 and is pretty even increase till 5000 which has a correction of 10 then correction is 11 from 6000 onwards this is just from memory cant exactly remember the exact values at each load point
mods 11psi, fmic ,3in zorst ,camgear-3, pod+cai.
208.8rwkw
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tried to delete this post please ignore
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it has different calibration to the rb20 and rb25 afms
so at 4.1v its flowing more air than an rb25 unit at 4.1volts
i think its around 1.5v offset ie an rb25 at 4.0v its about 3.0v on a z32
thanks that was helpful
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inline with forum rules there will be NO bad feedback provided.
Please use the search feature located in the middle of the toolbar set.
You'll find they are well covered, just line nengun, perfect run and all the other internet parts businesses that people post up about every second week
How the hell is he ever gonna find out the truth on this forum with or without the search button if telling about a bad experiance is not allowed (PLEASE NOTE.. I AM NOT SAYING GREENLINE ARE BAD IN ANYWAY)
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I dont see how any fact can be considered "bad" I would think bad would be lies but then again i could have originally been lying when i said they sent out the wrong pipes(where does it end). or what if i gave good feedback when the service wasnt good would this be considered "bad" why dont we just shut down the whole forum cause it might be considered bad to discuss our experiances and opinions!
so all the people that have said xyz part/car/whatever failed broke down doesnt work or perform could be considered giving "bad" feedback for the companies that manufacture these parts/cars/mods and should be banned???? confusing, I think its just people with abit of influence trying to protect there buddies!
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rb26 76mm
rb20 80mm
rb25 80mm
vg30 z32 80mm
vh41 q45 90mm
so if the z32 has the same diamiter tube(and im not saying it doesnt as i honestly dont know i was under the impression it was larger so would allow more airfow for the same voltage output) but still reads up to 5 volts same as stock r33gtst how does it allow more airfow for the same voltage output??... i hope i made sence as having them the same size doesnt make sence to me
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if somone steels mine, i get a new one, under insurance, for free, plus i actually want to be able to ready what the values are.
a new one for free is this before or after you shellout you excess and loose your no claim bonus, what values are on the safc that you need to constantly read that the dashboard doesnt do a better job of displaying anyway.
the only awnser i can accept for dash/display mounting is for rice factor but each to there own!
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when my afm gets dirty mainly from the oil on the pod filter it runs rich ie, when its clean at idle it will read 1.6-1.5 on the safc but when its dirty it will read 1.9-2.4 this seems to take me maybe 2 or 3 months to happen and by this point the car will also r&r under acceleration and hunt at idle sometimes completly conk out when things are real bad. but give it a quick squirt with electrical contact cleaner and it goes back to 1.5 and runs sweet! I think it has something to do with the dirt or oil reducing the resistance of the resistor in the afms hotwire maybe by letting current pass around it and with a decrease in resistance theres gonna be an increase in output voltage without an actual increase in airflow hence run richer...GOSH i hope i got that the right way around.
Ps. i cant remember weather those figures i gave on the safc readout were percentage readout or voltage i think they were a percent but you get the idea anyway.
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in the glove box why would you want it on display where it could get stolen/in the way, just leave enough cable so when you need to read off it or play around with it you can place it on your centre console or on your lap or wherever
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The stock AFM is 80mm Dia. for an R33 same as the Z32 AFM
I think the steel intake would give a better induction note, but thats not the main reason for using one, they are used so that the stock rubber intake pipe doesnt suck itself closed when running high boost or a larger turbo.
are you sure the z32 is the same dia as stock r33????????????????????
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can vouch for greenline you can definatly trust them they have great communication, ive ordered a fair bit off them though somethimes transit times are a little slow, once i ordered a cooler kit and ordered aloy pipes but recieved steel all i did was email them and they offered to replace or refunded the difference and extended a 5% discount on my next order so even if things do go pear shaped and i dont think they will they will not leave you in the dark.
Fs. Late 1993 R33 Gtst
in For Sale (Private Whole cars only)
Posted
Here is a pic!