Jap_Muscle

came on trying to find why the hell SAU wont let me log in and its because of this same reason. u guys have obviously updated the forum but this bug still exists. any resolution?

i was just crunching numbers and the 35r is rated at 700hp with a 1.06 housing. 700hp = 521.9893kw @ flywheel 15% drivetrain loss (usually more on bigger hp cars) = 391.491975rwkw and thats at 100% efficiency which never happens. alot of people claim 39xrwkw on a .82 housing but the numbers dont seem to back it up. who really knows =[

bump, lots of offers but not what im after!

i purchased a exedy hyper metal clutch and it said it fits all late bnr32, all bnr33, bnr34, er34s

STILL HERE GUYS!!!

any offers guys anything!

SOLD

SOLD PENDING PYMT!

thanks mate, appreciate the kind words

PM Sent

Cash Ready ER34 Bride MO Seat Rails with (A01NPO Adapter) Part No: N105MO + N106MO Greddy Washer Tank Part No: 13506100 mob: 0421691338 Cheers

open to offers

open to offers guys

still here guys!

sure are

thanks for the link hibino ill get in touch with them next business day, however whats going n witht his GB?

r34 gtt 350kw and just under 300kms per full tank. could be better though i rkn

Ahhhh i see i see....makes sense now LOL. thanks guys! ill have pics up soon after the install =D

will you take $600 for the cams chris? if so PM me your details i can have the money in your account next business day. thank you

Hi Guys, ive been trying to decipher this Super LED ganador manual for the last few days but cant seem to figure out the last part. i understand that i have to rout the wires down the guards to the front indicators but i dont understand what to do next. i think what they are trying to say is to splice into the wires and have one routing to the mirrors and the original back to the front indicators. the thing is i dont exactly know why they included these red latch thingos. can anyone give me any hints?

Hi Guys, just an update on my progress. After fixing some AFR issues we saw power shoot to 354rwkw on my R34 gtt rb26/30 gt35r equipped setup. as mentioned before here are the specs RB26 head intake ported to runners standard everything else valve springs tested (no float, working condition) rb30 cp pistons spool rods 9:1 ratio cosmetic head gasket gt35r .82 turbo Cooling Pro FMIC 600x300x76 (no pressure drop test as yet) UPDATE: After checking the manufacters website ive found the following facts about the FMIC Super efficient vaccum brazed Bar and Plate core, capable of flowing up to 1020 CFM Low pressure drop across the core - Approximately 0.2% at 15 PSI ^^ does this sound like a intercooler capable of 400kw on my current setup? 3.5" dump 3.5" straight pipe exhaust (mild steel) Nismo twin plate supper coppermix clutch 354.2rwkw @ 18psi what i did want to ask is i understand there is about 6-7 different gt35r turbos taht garrett offer from wheel sizes to exhaust housings. can anyone help me confirm which one mine is exactly and the hp it is rated at? Part: KC 0156J 706451 5015 my plans are to have a chat to plazmaman about custom making a 3" piping intercooler to match my front bar sizing. unsure if this will push me over 400rwkw but i do believe it is the weakest link in the build so far. If anyone has any other suggestions or hints that could possibly help me, id be very much in debt. Thanks

they are the same things as East Bear stuff....nothing spesh. check www.justjap.com

the problem is that people people have made close to 400kw on standard cams. so really if its possible i dont want to waste my money on cams and lose out on bottom end torque, which is really where i want it all to be. most likely ill need a 100mm intercooler.

im not sure that was ever changed trent as its still running the standard oem rb26 cams.

ash i just wanted to talk to someone about my porting and polishing options and wether or not i do really need it. i dont think you can fault me for trying to find out what i should do from a expert. but your right i have taken my time in seeking help but its not easy for us uni students. money isnt that free. although i do want to say sometimes to fix things i do need to change things. moving forward though as i said id just like to talk to a professional on what the next step should be. Because really if i dont need springs why should i buy them. so i have officialy taken your advice and am seeking out experts to get my setup checked. ive contacted Rob @ sab automotive, and i wouldnt mind getting trents throughts on things to. cheers