STYLN
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Posts posted by STYLN
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Run the lower return pipe in through cutout and hook it up. I had some issues with mine but persistence with it and changing back to the old black rubber hose to connect the gap did the trick.
Once thats done its just a matter of refitting the front bumper. Put her up in place and look at which sections require trimming back then, remove trime the section out using a one handed hacksaw style tool or something that doesnt require a bow style frame. It will get around the tricky corners and along edges with no fuss. The blade also should be suitable for soft woods or plastics not metal if you dont wanna be at it all day.
Keep refitting, checking and try again until your happy with the fit. I wasnt too stressed as mine isnt staying on it very long so it was done quickly for sure. And here it is fitted
Took us almost 8 hours with the two of us and the two kids in our way so i'd say 5-6 without the kids...
Since the install ive noticed an improvement in mid and low range response. My factory boost guage is playing up and im not sure why, and of course i have yet to refit a washer bottle as the factory one no longer fits.
The look is good but will certainly be much better when it's got the Top Secret bar on.
Hope its helpful guys ;-)
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Put the lower pipe back in and run the under pipe from there to the cooler and connect it up.
crossover pipe in place (note its different from the one pictured - i'm investigating why now)
Time to start looking at the cutout hole going through to the engine bay. It's a single plate section right where the relay thingy sits. Relocate it down and tie it back, then get stuck into it. I removed the battery for easy access and visibility.
alignment to chassis cutout
cutout location (engine bay side)
under guard side
Remove the washer bottle. As i saw with mine it wouldnt go back so i've cut it free for now while i investigate what others have done. Any help would be great guys!
I cut mine with an angle grinder after my dremel tool broke and used the black rubber line they gave with the kit to act as a protection layer around the cutout.
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Examine the front area and look for opportunities to move anything clear that you can. View intercooler void before
I turned the horns around to face back at the car for the time being but i'll relocate them again properly when i mount the new front bumper. The view from the top
Next you should spend some time mocking it up and checking clearances, mount points and other objects. Heres mine mocked in...
I chose NOT to cut away the front bumper bar section for fitment, instead opting to bend the lower lip clear of the cooler. It's been done pretty neatly considering and is not visible with the bumper on.
I moved the sensor that was sitting just infront of the oil cooler at base by rebending the bracket so it sits directly below the oil cooler.
folded lower lip of bumper
To fit the cooler i used the short bracket provided and carefully drilled and tapped a hole into the top of the cooler. The top section is just a flat piece of allow bent up as channel so i had about 4mm of thread depth and 4mm of space to thread in past it.
View of top hole into fmic
View of it fitted below and above, you can see where i ran the brackets. Only had to drill one hole into the under bar for the passenger side bracket.
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engine bay before
thanks to the diy i had read from here taking the bumper off was too easy. My son even helped hahaha
Take the air box out and the two black pipes connecting to the side mount intercooler. Then work the clamps free and undo the mount bolts to take the smic out
pipe holes for smic after removal
Keep the lower pie as it's reused again in the new setup just chuck it aside.
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Last weekend i got stuck in and fit up the front mount intercooler kit from JJR to my R34 GTT. I chose NOT to go with the cooling pro stealth kit for both look and later practicality, knowing sooner or later i'll end up upgrading to a side mount plennum. I say right now it's a daily and i wont but i know myself well enough to know i probably will. hahahahaCooler kit as advertised
After delivery this is the kit
and the cooler
SIDE PROJECT
I painted my forum name onto the cooler before i went ahead and fitted it. The results are great considering they cost nothing. Using some A4 paper, some patience, tape, stanley knife and the original box i was able to make a very suitable stencil. A can of black enamel spray paint and bobs your uncle.
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did the grounding trick last weekend and it's much better. But i crave more, so im thinking im going to install the turbosmart t valve i have at home this weekend and tune to 10-12 psi.
Thanks guys this was top mod!
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For the hose to the power steer pump I bought a brass nipple with thread on one end from autobarn
Drill a hole in the underside of the cross over pipe above the pump and screw it in. The alloy pipes are fairly thin so I used some liquid metal, comes in a tube to create a nice fillet onto the nipple. Has been like that for 18 months. works well. Did the same for a boost feed as well if needed.
Thanks mate!
FYI for those interested once mine is installed i'll be doing a DIY thread for R34 gtt setup. That is unless someone does before hand of course...
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do it, the shorter the better. Less piping means not only some saving in capacity but also reduces the amount of piping that can and will absorb heat. In my other project car i have such short piping due to the flipped cooler method you spoke of that my intake pipe stays cool to touch even on long drives. The turbo side only reaches luke warm so i assure you the intake temps will thank you which will equate to a worthy gain. As said above though a forward facing plennum is a must.
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having not watched any prior eps last nite didnt get me off on the right foot. however all was redeemed when i saw the stig will be fanging the r35 next week so im eagerly awaiting that ep.
they said unlimited r35 does that mean the mines one??? it looked white so im assuming here...
on a side note i spotted my first r35 on sunday at heatherbrae just north of newi, silver and slick she took my eyes for an extended glance for sure!!!!!!!!!!
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Cruise is still happening guys n girls. Weather is looking like being a fine 21°c in Port Macquarie and a 19°c in Newcastle.
Camp quality girls are coming along to collect funds and enjoy the day too, so it should be a great day out. Cant wait...
Hope to see some of you there!
Well cruise was good and although im not aware of any SAU members attending there were a few skylines made it along.
Myself in the r34 4 door from Newcastle,
an r33 4 door and an r32 both from Taree
and an r33 from Port
Next years destination will be Sydney North and the year after Dubbo or Muswellbrook, then back to Port the year after if all goes well.
Some wrap up pics below for those who are interested.
The Taree crew were ready and waiting at the service centre, though we lost a few on the way...LOL
Here's the head turning camry. Nice guy for sure...
The skylines i missed the chance to get a pic of as with the commodore wagon, 180sx and others that came along
The datto and the capri stole the show for me. I really enjoyed seeing them. Clean and done well for sure...
At the two destinations we stopped at
Deans galant with commodore 3.8L efi
our moderator Amber working hard
The port crew came down to check out what we were up to... Some hot rides up there for sure and these were the few that stopped in
A lovely old couple enjoyed lunch on the beach and cruise that day obviously and though none of us had noticed the car until they left, it certainly turned our heads. An original spec (with era mags) Ford Cortina...
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Guys after buying a trust style BOV recently from JJR i decided to fit her up and do my usual thing in posting the how to.
Here's the BOV i got witha universal adaptor (not needed)
Pic of the factory BOV with rubber pipe removed to the return line. It plumbs back to the intake, though i havnt bothered to plug it yet as im not aware of any reason it has to be.
Remove the factory BOV and you'll find a 1" hole approx into the manifold pipe note the extra vacuum line coz it could get in the way later. Mine went in fine though so its check twice cut once guys...
Overlay the factory BOV on some cardboard then the new one and trace the individual shapes in positions that will suit the layout without fouling the vac line or bolt heads etc. This way you make an adaptor plate that keeps the original stuff close at hand. Then take some 10mm alloy plate and drill, cut file and shave until its smooth and slick.
Here's mine before final filing of centre hole.
And after thats done fitted to BOV using supplied bolts.
Fit her back up with the gasket you took off the factory one and presto!
Run a new line from the manifold to the BOV (i used smaller Blue silicone line)
And enjoy the new toy...
You can see another part of why i aimed it away. Lines up with my vent in the CF hood nicely.
Defected no probs un bolt and return to stock instantly.
Thanks
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thanks man thats a huge help
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explain deano??? where is the airbag sensor mate? in my experience the airbag sensor is up the front bar area?
Provided it's not structural element of the front end (ie chassis rail) it shouldnt be a problem. The front reo cut makes me nervous for sure as it's there low speed impacts and crumple control but to the best of my knowledge (so far) i'm not aware of the hole going through a chassis rail. Im still yet to get into my fmic install but soon thats for sure...
Are you saying the air bag sensor is in the chassis rail or area of the cutout? in which case thats hardly a product that responsible intercooler manufacturers should be marketing kits to cut now is it...
The question i want the answer to is where do i tap in the hose on top of the existing return pipe (ie the power steer one he mentioned in original post)
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Cruise is still happening guys n girls. Weather is looking like being a fine 21°c in Port Macquarie and a 19°c in Newcastle.
Camp quality girls are coming along to collect funds and enjoy the day too, so it should be a great day out. Cant wait...
Hope to see some of you there!
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wats the prices like on this kit? im keen on the skirts and back bar!! plz pm me!
PM sent
just gotta get my cooler in guys then its off to get the kit fitted and painted. WOOP
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i just soiled myself...
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for those interested in passing the word flyer is available
lookin forward to it should be good fun. Hope the weather pulls up nicely for us.
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Hi Pete, thanks for your enquiry.
There is no BOV mount on the piping kits for R32/R33/R34 as most customers either retain the stock Blow Off Valve or fit a replacement in the factory position as that section of cross pipe remains in place.
Regards,
Steve
thanks steve. I got my kit for r34 gtt the other day. had a look at it and i'm going to do a bit more invetsigation on it before i go ahead and get stuck into it. Is there instructions or someone elses example for fitting one up to an r34 gtt available?
Im particularly interested in the pipe going over the fan and what had to be removed relocated to make it work.
any help would be great. Im no stranger to doing it but im definately inexperienced with the engine bay of my r34.
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Do you have a reason? Different design, higher output, or do you just like the colour?
+1
running jjr's here and no problems at all now.
had one fail within days of going in but JJR replaced it without hassle and very compensative.
So as long as they go on for long time im happy. with the money i saved i now have a full sick BOV too hahaha
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its no surprise to me and ford & dodge/chrysler will be next IMO.
The world wide market demands fuel economy, efficiency, minimal environmental impact and minimum safety standards well beyond the crap of yester year. While GM and Ford, Dodge and all those other companies like such continue to build massive bulky over compensating statements of size, that chew juice like its goin out of fashion, struggle to meet 1996 emmissions standards and offer the drivers/ occupants very little in terms of safety (they assume they are biggest therefore safest hahahaha), they will continue to struggle to sell cars. Globally they cant compete and in their own countries the imports keep invading with status and value for money.
Sadly the economy is linked to it in many ways right down to locally so many will suffer on front page news.
Funny how the countries that ratified kyoto quickly and jumped on the efficient bandwagon early are now making the biggest profits.
Pig headed american attitudes will see them and their monstorous freedom buckets with their constantly empty trays banished to the land of the rednecks for use in trailers and jerry springer settlements in no time. Seriously did they forget that they are just one country??? I just hope our aussie economy can sling over to it's asian connection before we sink with the ship.
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You are invited to join the guys from NewcastleDNA.com their first annual charity cruise to Flynn's Beach, Port Macquarie on 14th June. Proudly supporting Camp Quality, we will be collecting gold coin donations at the end point. Each year the venue will change but the charity will not, if the first proves successful.
The Sydney people wll meet at Thornleigh Maccas ( 218/226 Pennant Hills Rd
Thornleigh ) at 8am for 8.15 leave
sorry its early guys and girls and cruise to meet the rest of the group at Hexham Maccas The Newcastle people will be at Hexham McDonalds from 10am to 10.30am - planning to hit the road at 10.30am.
Following meet-up at the Macca's we will head up the Pacific Highway, take a quick break at the Taree Service Centre (approximately 12pm) if needed (this is also an opportunity for people from the Forster or Taree cruising groups to meet up with our group), then continue on.
We are aiming to be at Flynn's Beach (there is a reserve on Pacific Drive near the Surf Lifesaving Club) between 1 and 2pm.
Families are welcome. There are BBQ facilities and a kiosk at our end point.
CLUBS AND FORUM GROUPS
It is intended that the forums will manage and travel in their own groups. IF you so choose you may head straight to destination, however the group cruise is preferred. Behaviour is expected to be tip top and DNA will accept no responsibility for dickheads. You will only bring a bad name onto the forum or club you represent. Please come along enjoy the day and help make a difference to kids like these...
Any questions contact:
Goddess on [email protected]
or check
www.newcastledna.com for details.
Maps
Hope to see some great cars from Newcastle, Central Coast and Sydney in attendance.
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steve im about to order mate, just trying to consider my bov options as well. I take it you dont have them with mount already in place as its usually a very personal thing???
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KTV i hope you find what your after mate. I see your idea your after but i hesitate to believe it will work either.
The current lights are lexan plastic suitable for the job but it like almost any other clear plastic is subject to yellowing. Mainly on the outside but some have evidence on the inside too.
As you know you can polish them with just about any polish or compound, and its as you said only temporary. The latest hype, "Glassylite" product they claim works much longer so im looking to try that out soon.
Maybe if your looking to mould a new face you should be asking can a glass guy remake the face in glass??? Now that'd be an idea... Let me just say the first person to make a replacement unit for r33 & r34 with glass lense will make a fortune worldwide...
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i have a stock gtt bonnet for sale if your looking to mod one, but it sounds like your after an already done bonnet that looks largely standard with the exception of a bulge moulded in?
If your after a stock one mate give mea pm and we'll set something up. Im in newcastle
sorry its early guys and girls and cruise to meet the rest of the group at Hexham Maccas 
I found a good cheap boost controller for $22!!!
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by STYLN
hey guys in leu of having this boost controller i fitted up my turbosmart valve t as the instructions say for this one. Anyway i set the boost all good and its driving fine but now my factory boost guage is not working all the time. Ive also done the FMIC install as you can see in this section.
prior to the boost controller install i'd done the wire cut and ground for 7psi without the guage playing up.
Is it an issue now that i'd removed the solenoid or should i be looking somewhere else all together? where / how does the factory boost guage get its feed / signal from???