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datsfreak

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Posts posted by datsfreak

  1. hi, Im wanting to put a FMIC on my s1 r33, and not sure which way to go.

    Ive got a 600X300X75 bar and plate new in my garage but with no piping, does anyone sell just the pipes?

    Ive read that some kits pipes hit the washer bottle and/or the fan- and I didnt really want to modify more then I have too.

    Are any kits mod friendly?

    Ive also got a stealth return flow cooler but I think ill sell that and go the bigger x flow type.(its bigger and thicker).

    Anyways I appriecate your thoughts

  2. thankyou for posting this! I know its a old thread but its be so helpful.

    This was on my r33 s1- you could perhaps post a link to this on the forced induction pages :D

    today I did a new belt ,gates racing - $115 at repco

    new pump vl commodore $80 at supercheap

    new adj cam gear $60 off these forums- just jap type.

    balancer puller $35 supercheap

    timing light $80 supercheap(my old one had died -it only cost $20 damn it).

    Set at 4 degree retard for the exhaust cam.

    I dont know if its the adj cam or because the old belt was stretched but it has a bit more poke now.

    for example it now crabs sideways a bit in 1st that it didnt do before the cambelt /adj cam gear .

    very good, thanks for the "how to".

    Q - to get 15 degrees advance my crank angle sensor is on its max rotation but before it was is the middle..

    Is this because the exhaust cam that runs the crank angle sensor, is now rotated? Should I be running 11 degrees now because of this?(15 standard)

  3. I just got a 3" cat back exhaust and now need a 3" dump/front pipe.

    I dont mind either split or bellmouth, but would prefer stainless

    im in QLD and post is ok.

    Anyone done a high mount convo and have a std turbo pipe spare?

    pm me

    thanks

  4. thats good info( i didnt know about the no - cost option)

    With the RB20 actuator, is that 10psi with the rb25 boost controller or iwith a direct connection to the inlet nipple???

    thank for the info

    Well my auto Stagea (RB25DET) ran 5lb and 7lb. Three suggestions for you:

    1. [no cost solution] You can get 10psi by bypassing the solenoid altogether. Follow SK's directions and bore out the restrictor and you can get any psi you want (see post #40): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ja....html&st=20

    or

    2. [low cost solution $30 or so] get an RB20 actuator (they run 10psi)

    and or

    3. [From $200 - jaycar eibc plus hand controller like mine or up to $1000 for flash big name one] Get an electronic boost controller (not a bleed type which will be little better than #1 above) to build boost more quickly and hold it longer.

  5. Might be a stupid question but... my cheap brand adj gear has the R on the left and A on the right of its adjustment.

    BUT looking at pictures of HKS adj gears it is the other way around

    For example look about half way down this following ad for parts, he is selling a cheap brand gear but behind it there is a HKS gear box--the markings are opposite.

    ad with adj cam gear

    Whats the deal.?

    The motor turns clockwise(looking from the front) so the cheap gear it correct, ummmm, is it?

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