Zane
-
Posts
103 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Posts posted by Zane
-
-
Fast and efficient. The package was waiting for me when I turned up at work. If only my other suppliers could offer service like this.
Z
-
Just ordered a set of R33 Series 2 coils through your website (Paypal).
Looking forward to ironing out that hiccup when on boost and maybe opening up the plug gap as well
Z
-
I have 23139 rears and 23175 fronts
Z
-
-
PM sent.
Z
-
Interested in the exhaust. PM sent.
Z
-
Pics of exhaust please.
Z
-
PM sent. Please respond asap.
Cheers,
Adam
-
-
kubs,
PM sent.
Z.
-
Same query.
Please send pics and advise of location in Sydney.
Z
-
-
For the right price I could be persuaded to part with my MADGTS plates (NSW only).
However you may have to compete with the old Monaro owners and maybe the newer HSV GTS owners.
Z.
-
The hotdog and the box resonator only have about 3 inches of pipe between them and they fit between the CAT and the bend before the diff. The box is about 25cm x 20cm so is pretty small. All my pipes are mandrell bent and I had it made to sit as close to the body as possible so I have max ground clearance.
If your over 100dB you may need to look at a bigger rear muffler as well.
-
Yeh, they make the assumption that power is linear. How clever are these guys!!! Must have been the easiest way to work out a standard for all cars.
-
I had my exhaust tested a few years back and I'm sure things haven't changed much.
The process back then was:
Place the microphone at 45deg and 0.5m from the end of tailpipe.
Increase revs gradually to 75% of max hp of engine (this turned out to be 4200rpm for a skyline (any model skyline??) as indicated in the EPA manual, I didn't argue for a more accurate figure because more revs = more noise). Increase in revs has to be gradual so the reading does not spike, otherwise they have to start again. Same goes for backing off. They are not measuring dB under acceleration, they are measuring a simulated drive by situation at constant engine revs.
This process was repeated exactly when I fixed the exhaust and was retested.
I'm running a 3" front pipe off the standard dump, 3" high flow CAT, into 3" pipe with a hotdog inline with a small box resonator, and a 6" barrell muffler with a 4" tip. Tested at 89dB.
Without the box resonator I was tested (and fined) at 92dB. A hotdog will only knock off 1-2 dB. NSW EPA regulation is a maximum reading of 90dB.
Z.
-
Hi all,
After fixing the damage done by some turd who broke in and stole my stereo, I now find out that the air cond module defaults back to 25deg whenever the ignition is turned off.
There are no other ill effects. All functions work perfectly, there is no visual damage to the dash unit and all wiring appears normal.
Is there any hope for this unit? I keep having to drop the temp every time I get in the car and it's starting to annoy me, especially as the summer temps get higher.
Also the clock display is now barely visible at all, and this was also since the breakin.
Should I replace the air cond unit ( and clock )? Can it be fixed? Anyone else heard of this happening?
Z.
-
-
Thanks guys,
To be on the safe side I think I'll find a manual GTSt wrecking and grab the assembly, then get it rekeyed to suit.
It's a pity there aren't more models out there using the same part number (even if the R32 unit is similar).
Cheers,
Z.
-
Got to love school holidays. Some young knobs have broken my 5.5yr record and tried to thieve my car. Immobilisers stopped them but they still made off with some stereo gear, my favourite Razo gearknob, and a money box containing about $25 in change. Also ripped out the centre console in the process.
But the bit that is really annoying is that they have destroyed the ignition/steering lock assembly, and after being quoted $370 for a genuine Nissan replacement, I need to pick the forum brains.
I know that the R32 assembly is thet same unit used in R31 Skylines/Pintaras, N13 Pulsars and Z31 300ZXs, but does the R33 (series 2) share assemblies with any other models?
My plan is to find a second hand assembly and have a locksmith rekey it to suit my current key, which should be significantly cheaper than the new part option.
So, can I use an assembly from another Nissan model, perhaps even a locally available model eg. Maxima?
Also, am I correct in assuming that the R33 GTSt and GTR share the same assembly?
Any other traps before I embark on this venture?
Cheers,
Z.
-
Sounds like the thrust bearing has had better days. I've had the same rattle noise in my R33 for the last 3 years and some days it's loud, some days not quite so loud. My clutch still works as it should so I dont think you'll have any issues with it just yet. When you go to replace the clutch you should get a new one with the clutch kit.
You never know, it might be a twin plate clutch. They tend to rattle away.
Z.
-
If your willing to loose the air cond fan you can mount a FMIC (600x300x76) right up against the radiator and only have to shave a couple of mm off each outside edge of the black finned grill section. This does require fabricating a new bracket for the bonnet lock but the end result looks almost stock from front on since the FMIC is so far back. I've had this setup for over 4 years and never had any issues with the air cond or any overheating issues and the car has done numerous track days.
I dont have any photos but can take some if required.
Z.
-
For the record,
After completely shredding a 265/35/18 rear ( on my GTSt ) I travelled about 250kms from just north of Nelsons Bay to Sydney on the spacesaver. After being advised not to go above 80km/hr by the local tyre mob ( who couldnt find me a suitable replacement ) I gave the spacesaver about 36psi and headed off at a brisk 100-110km/hr down the freeway. I stopped every hour to check the condition of the tyre and ensure the pressure was holding, but it never missed a beat and got me home in a damn decent time. And honestly, I think the tyre looks better for the run. No issues with treadwear, car handled fine at the higher speeds, and I now have complete confidence that it is more than up to the job.
In short, dont underestimate the quality of the spacesaver, as said above, its designed to be used on your car ( it does look a little rediculous from behind but you get over that when you start overtaking slower cars ).
Z.
-
I run 235/40/18 fronts and 265/35/18 rears. Currently have about 15-18,000kms on them and they seem to be holding up fine, heaps of tread left. No track time on them yet but for the money they are pretty good. No louder than any other street tyre I've used in the past.
Z.
Sump Dinted, Risk Of No Oil Flow?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted
I have had a dented sump for about 6 years and never had any issues. Car was jacked up by a friend at a track day while I was cracking the wheel nuts to check the brakes. Obviously the sump looked like the cross member to him and the weight of the front end on the jack resulted in the sump being pushed up at least 25-30mm. Never realised it for weeks but the car has never had any oil issues so the damage internally must be minimal. I figured I just got lucky but monitor the pressure gauge religiously when giving it the boot.
Something I've always wondered was where the oil pickup is located in relation to, say, the sump plug? Does anyone have a pic of an RB25 with the sump off?
Z