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top13s

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Posts posted by top13s

  1. Wikid thanks man my 33 is about to be off the road for a bit it needs new brake rotors.

    Brake fluid change and new rotors wit sticky pads are on the cards I'll be hunting for your ideas and I'll have a look at Chopin the stone guards

    I've had a bit of a look at diffs ATM I'm swaying to an r200 but I gotta find one.

    Clutch I think I'll get into later when mine gives out ATM

    And I've got a new turbo set up lines up so I'll sell my old one to pay for the brakes

    Lookin at a td06 25g on a high mount external gate and change my j pipe for a diff cooler pipe to make it fit

  2. Hey guys been on here a wile but Havnt really posted up

    Righto the point of my post.

    I've got an r33 4 door that was a daily but since getting my hilux Its become a weekend toy.

    It's running an xtreme ceramic 6 puk with heavy duty pressure plate went this for drivability for daily use but I'm keen for somthing a bit more grabby.

    Brakes are f**king terrible. Stock and fade very badly I was origanaly thinking slotted rotors and sticky pads but wats a good bang for buck upgrade that's gonna get rid of some fade.

    Last time on qr I had trouble pulling up for he corner at the end of the back straight after a few laps.

    Diff I'm running the stock viscous LSD and again it feels tame and is probly worn out. I've been pretty hard on it and is like somthing that feels a little more agressive.

    I have no idea about what diff are out there. And am looking for some advice on what's worth lookin at.

    Same as brakes like would gtr brakes with good pads be any good or is there somthing else that's worth looking at??

    Clutch wise I'm thinking when I burn this one out I may look at a twin plate or another 6 puk with a race pressure plate but jus would like to kno what set ups ppl have and what you think of what you have

    Thanks guys

  3. Mate compression isn't that tight. U can always turn it over by hand with effort. But when your pushing hard as f**k and it don't go that's worrying.

    I was getting worried as my room mates n12 did the same thing jus before it blew the Ecu.

    And was kinda hoping for some advice on microtech plug and play as well.

    I was told it would jus go when it pluged in but now I've got no spark and my exhaust is loaded with fuel from tryin to crank it.

  4. Kk jus about to put the other starter motor in. But we jus discovered with the starter motor out I couldn't turn it clock wise either but I put a breaker bar on it and pushed hard as f**k then it turned over and seems fine now. Ill try another jump and another starter and fingers crossed it works

  5. Hey guys trying to put a microtech lt12s in my 33 4door. I've got a plug and play set up but the power circuit was f**ked. So we've found a new power for the Ecu and plugged it in.

    The hand controller said everything was ok and we set the tps to 0 then tryed to start it.

    The starter motor was turning it over then stopping suddenly and ticking like the battery was flat. So with the jump leads hooked up to my room mates car we tryed again and it did the same thing, Then it stoped and jus ticked.

    So thinking we've done damage we've out the old chipped Ecu in and it's still doing the same thing.

    I'm pretty sure I've done the starter motor but I don't understand how. I'm also keen to jus see this Ecu work but so far the plug and play has given nothing but trouble

    Can anyone help out please

  6. Awsome I had a few ppl tell me the auto ecu will make the car run different due to diff gear ratios, but it didnt make sense to me I figure its gonna run the engine as it should either way.

    I'm looking for the cheeper option ATM lol I've just spent a fortune on new timing belt water pump cam seals front main and cam cover seals

    oh an new splitfire coils. It's a reliable solid engine, has never played up on me dosnt leak oil Im lovin it

    And yeah I google manual conversion and all I find is manual conversions for sale lol

  7. Hey guys I'm planing to convert my s1 r33 4 door to manual, so far I've picked up a complete manual conversion, and it just about ready to go in I jus need a couple things.

    Now I plan in eventually running an aftermarket ecu so I don't wanna waist money on buying a stock manual ecu.

    Wat I want to kno is will I be able to run the auto ecu with out any dramas till I get the ecu I want,

    The other thing is I can't find any info ATM for how to do manual conversion. I've got a mate helpin who's done it before but I want to have a look so I have more of an idea as to what were doing.

    I see a lot of ppl do them so does some one kno I some one who's done a how to??

    Also any other advice is appreciated, I'm getting the fly wheel machined and the rear main seal replaced wile the box is off,

    And an exedy clutch came with my conversion so that will save me some cash till I get a better clutch

  8. hey im wondering if some one around here knows what the stock fuel pressure is on an rb25det out of an r33. its more a curiosity thing atm, ive been doing a bit of searching and i cant come up with a definate answer. i found some one saying its around 43 45 psi, but i want to know for sure

  9. gonna do the conversion wit the help of a mate, and i have a manual conversion for less than a grand ;) only one catch tho were not sure if its a 32 or a 33 conversion. they guy dosnt kno :S but i got it really cheep. (i havnt picked it up yet tho) but i figure if its a 33 conversion SCORE but if its a 32 box im not to worried it will get me converted to manual and ill get a 33 box when one comes up.

    i jus need to kno just incase its a 32 conversion, does the pedal box fit a 33 and will the tail shaft work on a 33 4 door a mate of mine seems confident it will all fit bar the pedal box says hes unsure lol.

    also how can you tell between the 32 manual box and the 33 manual box

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