speedfreak31

turns out they are work stitch 5 spokes. funny how some people think theyre ugly, yet i think they look shit hot, but when i look at mesh wheels and want to torch the car theyre sitting under. cheers for the input guys, if anyone spots a set for sale i would be ever so gratefull for a heads up

yeah kinda, but just dont appeal to me the same..anyone else?

i want them. i dont know what they are and i dont know how to find them. the guy who was selling them reckons they are work stitch, but i thought the stitch series were all mesh? they are 17x8 +5 and 17x9+11 any guesses?

anyone have any advice on if this turbo would be any good for an rb30et, drove to the dyno the other day (very sedatly), got out and the turbo was leaking oil and smoking. f**k. so im thinking about putting a rebuild kit thru the hi flowed one and putting it on instead before i head back to the dyno, what kind of rebuild kit would i even have to get? or would it just be a mix and match on seals and wheels?

well actually its an rb30e+t in an r31 that it would be going onto, but now im thinking ill just keep the 33 s2 turbo on, even tho it may be a bit small for the 30, anyone offer a suggestion of what that highflowed one would be worthe to sell 2nd hand?

got this spare with a car i bought, someone told me its a vlt rear housing (.63) and has the same stud pattern, but i dont know what the specs are, aside from the fact that it has been high flowed. also, does anyone know if the highflowed components (wheels, housing etc) would be interchangeable with an r33 s2 rear housing? as ive already had a custom dump pip made to suit it.

not a flogging, just checking if its still missing thru the rev range after replacing bits

well in between the long hours at work ive found the time to hack the shit out of the chassis rail to fit the dump pipe in and plug the vacuums etc, its not burning or blowing oil any more, but its still running rough and missing alot and now its blowing blacker smoke, (fuel i think) i let it idle for ages and gave it a good boot full a few times but nothing changed. should the vacuum on the top of the fuel reg be plugged into the vaccum?

did you mean plug the unused vacuum line on the intake manifold or referring to the filter on top of the rocker cover?

ok so i had a good tinkering with it today. the oil drain pipe is WAY larger then the oil feed line and does run mostly down hill but has to enter the block horizontally, im assuming this should be ok given its size? i also worked out that it was leaking due to bodgeyness of install. thread sealed and tightened properly. but i undid the top connection on it and checked for blockage and theres none, and the hose is empty after running the car so its not blocked. also i took the lid off the catch can so the rocker cover breather hoses could breathy freely and after i had done both that and fixed the leak the turbo stopped blowing heaps of oil splats out the back, now it just blows lots of eye watering smoke. BUT when the catch can lid is off (rocker cover breathing freely) the turbo blows a little less smoke and the engine doesnt run rough like it was thru the rev range, it runs smoother and doesnt hesitate and pop as much. also when i muck around with the vacuum line from plenum to fuel reg/ block the spare open vacuum line on the plenum the motor drops a couple of hundred revs at idle. im hoping it is something as simple as vacuum hooked up wrong and im also not sure what should be happening with the vacuum from the waste gate-to the turbo or to the plenum? took some more pics. if you can see something wrong with the vacuum set up im open to ideas.. also, im well aware the engine bay looks like a train wreck, the bloke i bought it off was setting it up as track drift hack and was just tryna get it running- and YES that is speaker wire for the tps, low coolant sensor and oil pressure sender

quite possibly an issue, motor was originally NA and now has a catch can hooked up and also has a custom forward facing plenum with multiple vacuum nipples out the side, i shall try dicking around with them. how smaller hole should there be? drain back is about 20mm internal and down hill all the way. havent done a compression test, the guy i bought it off said the motor was still running perfect when he started putting all the turbo gear on then got a notice from the council to move the car in 10 days, so i kinda took it for granted, but probably wouldnt hurt now that you mention it.. gives me a few ideas to work on tomorrow, cheers again guys!

thanks for the replies guys, checked over the suggestions and the engines full but not over filled, no lines are kinked and there is pretty minimal amount of shaft play, i doubt it would be more then 1mm. BUT i pulled the oil feed line off- its an aftermarket braided line and im not sure it would restrict the flow as much as your talking about. does this look right or do i need to replace the nipple in the turbo with one with more restriction?

please bear with me, this is my first turbo motor ive ever owned so ive still allot to learn... ok so ive got an r31 i bought its just a single cam 30 with an r33 stock s2 turbo (t03 i believe?) i picked the car up mega mega cheap and ive been trying to get it running so i can drop the motor in my daily driver. ive finally got it running and not ive noticed to main issues with the turbo. 1 is that it leaks oil out of the connection for the oil drain fitting (its a proflow or some other decent braided line fitting) while the enigine is running. problem 2. is that out of the back of the turbo (there is no dump or exhaust fitted to it atm) it blows ALOT of smoke and when i let it idle for a while (the car hadnt been started for a while-i have drained the fuel and filled the tank with 98) but when i put some revs into it a few times then turned the car off and let the smoke clear, there was shit loads of oil that had sprayed out the back of the turbo all over the manifold, waste gate and firewall. now my question is: would the oil seal cause both these problems or would it just be a combination of a dodgy fitting and a leaky oil seal in the turbo? and how hard is it to replace the seal and how much would it be worth for the parts if i did it myself?-im cluey with pulling shit apart and fixing it. or is it something to do with the bearings being clapped out and the turbo needing a full rebuild? any advice would be great cheers!

i see, guess that answers my question then, 31 crossmember, 32 column and uni, 33 rack. cheers mate, just saved me a few bucks finding out the hard way

anyone?