WrenchesInTheGears

thanks for the pics guys, might go for something like yours jimmy, was looking at getting drifteks or D1R's i think the 9's in the dteks come out in +34 and the D1R's have a few different offsets to choose, these pics help, cheers

looking for offsets btw sorry didnt mention it

Hey guys i have looked in the offset guide and cant seam to find anything much on 32 gtst's i am looking at getting some 17X8's and (9's for front and rear respectivly) possibly 17X8.5's up front maybe lookin at 225 tyres up front and 235 at the rear. could someone help me out maybe with some pictures of wheel fitments and specs on the wheels in the photo or just give me a guide as to how much it takes to fill the guard without going completly overboard. the car is lowered on coilovers i can adjust the height if needed but id rather keep it as it is, it sits just above the tyre at the rear and about an inch above at the front cheers -Alex

fair enough, so no gains can be had from under the bonnet tuneing, eg boost, fuel pressure, ignition timeing? would a power fc be a worthy investment? how easy are these to play around with for a DIYer

cheers, makes sense i guess. i was thinking of upping boost to 14psi, atm it runs about 10-11 according to the cheap boost guage. if i did this would it be safe, or should i up fuel pressure aswell?

none of those threads really explain what makes a better turbo make more power with the same boost?

sorry if this is abit of a noob questioni guys ive been reading up abit on power modifications, bolt on mods mainly not keen on cracking open the engine. ( r32 gtst rb20) just wondering, everyone is saying get a different turbo, i think mine has a vg30, but alot of people are saying get a hks 2530, and all different things. there is this but im just wondering. what is the difference between running a rb20 stock turbo, a vg30 turbo or a hks 2530 turbo all running the same boost pressure, 12psi for example. apart from the obvious spool time will the hks produce more power/torque with the same boost? if yes why? also if you had a grand to spend on an rb20 to make a fair bit more power without running too much boost and keeping standard engine managment what mods would you do? it already has a front mount, pod, free flowing exhuast, bosch fuel pump. cheers Alex,

if sale falls through ill grab it for 150

hey man, standard front and rear bumpers?

alright guys, ive got an r32 gtst and got a few questions about the horn with the standard steering wheel, is it meant to have a clock spring or backing plate on the actual steering wheel that touches the metal tabs? because mine doesnt(one that i was supplied with my car as i had a sports wheel on it) also with the steering wheel off touching the outter tabs to the main column(earthing it) does not sound the horn or light up a test light. the horn fuse in the engine bay is fine and has power to it, the relay in the engine bay has power to one of the three prongs, not sure how to test the relay? i need a few tips on hwo to get it working as i have to take my car for inspection on wednesday. i think i may be missing the backing plate of my steering wheel to goto the horn button? but im not sure, but thats only half the problem as the horn doesnt work when u test it with the steering wheel off. thanks

Hey guys i need 1 wheel nut must be 12X1.25 threead pitch, and must be of allen key style(size 14mm) just need one am in adelaide can drive or pay post, need it by next wednesday tho as my car is going to the pits

ok so thanks for all the replies, i am aware that a muffler will quieten it, but i am looking for a more cheapskate approach, i have heard mixed ideas of perferated plates and such anyone done this beforE?

ey guys sorry to bring up an old thread was havin a look at my front brakes the other day becauuse i needa replace a front wheel stud, went to take the caliper off by unbolting it from the backing plate (so i could take the disc off) and once doing so i realised i cant move it as the part where the solid brake line joins to rubber is mounted solid(it appears), so how do u guys get the caliper off to enable the disc to come off without opening the hydraulic system

ok everyone ive got an r32 gtst with a 3 inch exhuast, decat pipe and large cannon at the back, i think the brand of the system is trust, it is loud and i need to make it quiet for defect clearance, i have got a cat to put in it so that is that sorted but i still will need to quieten it, i heard of using a plate cut to the size of the flange at one of the joins with holes drilled into it to limit flow anyone done this before? also any othger ideas? im talking cheap/easy/DIY stuff cheers

well got home after work and started it and it started first go, weird huh, id say it was wat blind_elk was saying about low battery, and overnight the battery had rejuvenated itself. thanks all

you may well be on the money, it is battery backup, and i did have the stereo cranking for a while but not the whole time. i will try a jump start tonight cheers for the replys guys

hi all i have an r32 gtst and when i turn the key to start the engine the alarm goes off while it is cranking, butstops as soon as the key is released and the car does not start it was working fine until i did the following tryed removing the steering wheel that is on there (aftermarket one), no luck getting it off tho so i left it. might add that when i was trying to get it off the adjustable (kalaidascopic) steering column slipped a few times as the lever came down from all the shaking) i then went and replaced the rocker cover gaskets, the only electrical items i touched were the ignition module,(the one at the back of the valley cover, removed and unplugged) and the coilpack plugs,(unpllugged) after putting all the engine bay back together i went to start the engine and its all normal untill it actually cranks and the alarm sounds and the engine doesnt start the alarm is a cheetah alarm and the remote has 3 buttons, unlock lock annd an unknown one. has anyone else had any problem like this before

hey mang, how much for that exhuast? n also wats the condish of the floor mats

sweet be good if u could man, cheers

hey guys, im after a part number for rear shoes on a hr31 skyline, its a s1 passage if that makes any difference, are they the same as the aussie r31? im talking about the inner drum used for the handbrake only cheers

and those top bolts were a piece of piss with the crossmember dropped and stuff, should have done it all like that in the first place, only bolt i struggled with was the top starter motor bolt, just took ages, 1 click of a ratchet at a time lol

ok guys its all in and the cars back thanks for the help everyone, in the end i had to do everything, drop crossmember, loosen engine mounts, jack up front of sump, and then put the trans in upside down then onces the front of the input shaft was just inside the clutch plate i was able to rotate it so that the bellhousing was lined up n then a bit of wiggling and the box went in cheers everyone

sounds like a good tip, i scored a trans jack from work, woop woop, just wish this rain would stop, workin in a river aint fun. when it stops ima try puttin the box in upside down n then rotating it onces its on, if that doesnt work then ill try jacking the front of the sump and or loosening the crossmember abit, no doubt that wouldnt be fun without a rattle gun tho

alright thanks guys, well the gearbox crossmemeber is stil attatched to the box so i guess if im going to rotate it i will have to take it off, or i might drop the crossmember, if its not to hard.

my gearbox is out of my r32 gtst because i have just relpaced the clutch i have the car up on stands in my driveway and dont have a trans jack, me and my mate can manage to lift it up enough however when we try to lift it up it seams the trans tunnel is to small to alow you to riase thye box far enough back from the clutch pressure plate to clear it. for those that have done this before could u give me any tips?? cheers -Alex