nickperth
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Posts posted by nickperth
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Hey hows it going, i have a quick question i have a slight oil leak on my rb25 oil sump is there any possible way were i can reseal the sump without taking the out the gearbox?
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I found finally its the speedo drive I presume that's the drive or the sensor
Or is it the same thing cause In going to order a new one from Nissan and want to make sure it's the right part
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Hey how's it going I'm in need of a r33 gtst speed sensor from a s1 33 preferably from an auto box
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Hey how's it going I am having some trouble installing a 33 auto trans into a 93 33 turbo and this car came with a used condition auto box and had the previous already removed
So I'm currently about to put this auto trans and I know we're most the connections And. Lines go except for this one hole in the auto trans it's near the end of the box right near the back were the tail shaft goes and when I only noticed it when some auto trans fluid came out
I have a photo of it could anyone tell me who's got experience with 33 auto boxes what does this hole connect to or do as I hope it's not for an awd model and only feeling I might have it might be for the hicas
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Nah I want to know what is the max possible tyre size width on it I've heard 255/40 r17
I would get r34 gtr wheels but I would prefer Nissan center caps instead of gtr center caps
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I'm getting a set of 34 gtt rims stock ones and its going on a r33 gtst with 440 at the rears the main goal is to have the ultimate sleeper look like bone stock from the outside
Would anyone know what's the widest wheel you could fit on a r34 gtt rim
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Well ive fixed the issue with the misallignhment turns out one of the washers was the wrong one, and for just in case i replaced the engine stud and the the belt lines up quite nicely.
However i do have another issue unfortunetly, one of the drive belts the one that runs the alternator, got containmainted with coolant which i believe it is squeaking quite a high pitched sound, however i decieded to clean it and i used the wrong stuff for it which was break cleaner which i know shouldnt of, and i should of used warm water and soap. However i decieded to buy a new belt and got a dyco one for $15 i installed it yesterday and now it makes the same squeak, is there a chance i possibly contamiainted the pulleys as well cause when i was spraying i sprayed on the pulleys as well.
I want to know if i take out the radiator and everything and i wash down the pulleys and with warm water and soap should this get rid of the contaiminaton and stop the squeaking.
Because i know that its the altenator/water pump belt as when i loosen tension on the belt, the high pitched squeaking stops and goes away, however the battery light comes on indicating the alternator is providing poor current and power supply.
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Btw i havent replaced the stud
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Alright then, ill have a look at it today after work
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Hey hows it going, i pulled down the pulleys and checked it all over again and im 100% sure that ive lined it up exactly as the r33 engine manual says and have made sure all the washers are there with the diagram showing each part.
However i have taken a photo of the pulleys and theres possibly one reason why its off mark i believe its the tensioner and its a bit unalinged and i noticed the idler bearing is a bit more in towards the block and the tensioner is a bit more out is this normal?
I just want to know if you guys see anything wrong in these photos, it would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey hows it going, ive got issues with my new timing belt which ive put on my rb25 33 skyline
I have an issue as were when i do a few turn overs the engine my timing belt starts to slide off from the cams off my car. I want to know if this is normal, at first i thought it might be due to the new idle bearing and tensioner pulley however i reused the new one and it caused the same problem, now ive torqued up the tensioner fine however i noticed the idle bearing and tensioner arnt exactly alligned as i mean the idler is more pushed in closer to then engine and the tensioner is a bit more out from the engine, which im thinking it could be the cause off it moving.
i want to know what could possibly causing it to slip off the cam gears or is that normal, cause i have made sure all the nuts and washers are there, and there is no missing washers which could be causing this. however i did notice when i took off my original timing belt the idle bearing was scured with only a few threads, cause currently the idler is secured all the way in.
I got a video off the timing belt slipping off. I have made sure as well that all the timing marks are lined up and there 100% on.
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If you plan on doing the auto trans by yourself you can still get the old fluid out of the torque converter however when filling the fluid up you have to get it exactly 100% right when filling it, it cant be just under or just over
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This turbo will fit on r34,33 and 32s just to quickly mention this I had intentions to put is on a 33 series 2 and this direct 100% bolt up
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Posted 28 September 2012 - 02:08 PM
I've got here a stock r34 gtt turbo with the steel bearing design however i had original intentions of putting it on my car but my plans went a different way and I have no need for this turbo anymore
im looking for $700 price is negotiable it was highflowed by a garage here in Perth WA called xpseed
Its rated for 260rwkw
The turbo has very minimal shaft play and is in good condition.
You can contact me on 0430275261
I will post up some pictures tomorrow
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Carbon 34 you didn't pull 503nm of torque on 8psi
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Are you open to offers and does it come with receipt
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Hey can someone fast this vin for me.
HNR32-036735
Model - KRNR32RGFSLZAA
FS5R30A
6U9000HNR32036735
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Hello, can someone decode the following vin please.
6U900BCNR33003081
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Could someone be so EPIC and help me out, looking to join the Skyline club just wanted to know what info there is on this VIN
6U90000ER34013694
Cheers
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I have a feeling that these cars stolen in less then a week since purchase, that someone inside those dealerships were the cars were purchased has 2nd keys to the car.
This story sounds a bit like that guy MR-WRX Brian El-Hassan who used to own MC Racing in NSW and turned out they were just a stolen car crime syndicate and who used to brag about driving his STI with $10,000 gold plated rims. This was about 6 years ago that he got arrested but it still shows that there is still a large scene for stolen imports and Japanese high performance cars.
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i forgot to mention i already have injectors and upgraded fuel pump, i got nismo 740cc injectors and bosch 044 fuel pump
What i meant by 1.5k was just for the turbo and i know ill have to change the lines and dump pipe which is fine for me for the extra cost.
What im sort of looking is a good turbo which will has a bit of response so its not too laggy and i am down for paying a bit more to buy a decent turbo which wont fail unlike the cheap ebay stuff. But i am pretty much looking for a turbo with decent response and can make at least 360 at the rears, while my ideal goal would be 400 but anything between 360-400 hp would be great.
I did orginally look at the HG highflow option but im not sure how good they are espically there PU highflow options.
Though i am interested in a GT3076 Though i would like to know were are you guys are getting these prices.
I have had a read in the kinugawa thread and the HG thread but theres a lot of mix reviews and i just want to some opinions that would suit my ideal sort of setup.
Yours Truly,
NickPerth
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Hey hows it going i got a R33 GTST
With the following mods
Turbo back 3.5" HKS exhaust
Apexi Panel Air Filter
Blitz ProSpec 2 EBC
Nistune ECU
Splitfire Coilpacks
OS Geiken Twin Plate Clutch
Greedy Front Mount Intercooler
I am currently still running a stock turbo but i want to move onto something low mount which is better then my stock one and ive run into a problem which one to choose im stuck between two turbos.
One of them is a Hypergear ATR43 G3: http://www.digi-hardware.com/atr43.html
Or this Kinugawa TD06 Turbo: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbocharger-3-Nissan-RB25DET-TD06H-w-Garrett-60-1-12cm-500HP-/290705745228?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43af69a54c
I am mainly looking for a turbo which can make at least 370 hp and i want to know which one would be the most reliable and i dont have any plans on running any more then 20psi of boost
The reason i am going Low mount is that ive made my car to look more like a sleeper and i like the idea of a low mount thats internally gated and its a cheaper option as well.
If you know of any other better turbos up to the $1500 mark, could you guys recommend me some.
I really appreciate if anyone can help me out
Your Truly,
NickPerth
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Hey hows it going, i got a R33 Skyline and it currently aint starting, ive recently replaced the loom as the previous loom was all stripped and some of the wires were making contact, so i decided to replace the loom. However when i replaced the loom the car the car would still not start, but now im wondering is there any fuses or relay's which could make the car not start.
I can hire the car priming and the fuel is going to the injectors, as ive taken the hose off and fuel had come out was it would. But the car just cranks over and its not starting, the timing belt was done recently by a shop in perth called PZP and it was done perfectly but the car ran into a few issues after woulds as it would tend to stall while driving mainly due to fact i think was cause the afm singal wire had a loose connection with the solenoid wire on the loom.
Is there any areas i can check on the car that would cause the car to start, as ive made sure all the wires on the loom were grounded and im currently not sure what to check next.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Hey hows it going, i noticed your looking for a computer for $1200
Well i sell alot of computers as i run my own computer bussiness and this is what i would recommend you getting from MSY if it came to me choosing what i would want and i was doing the stuff you were doing:
CPU: Core i7 2600 1155pin: $289
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z68P-DS3: $95
RAM: Patriot Signature 8GB(4Gx2) DDR3 1333 X2: $41 each Total: $82
HDD: Hitachi 7200RPM 2TB Hard Disk: $135
Graphics Card: 1GB Power Color ATI HD6870: $159
Optical Drive: LG Sata DVD Burner: $19 if you want 2 it could come out handy since there that cheap these days
Case: Cooler Master RC692: $107
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts EA-650-Green Watt PSU: $94
Keyboard and Mouse: Logitech MK710 Cordless Desktop : $78
Wireless Card:P-LINK TL-WN951N PCI 3T3R 300M Wireless-N Network Card: $32
MSY Build Rate: $70
Total: $1160
Some might say i dont have the strongest graphics card or the best one, but when it comes to photoshop and lighting it matters a lot more on what kind of CPU you are using and currently the Core i7 is one of the best currently on the market and it excels in tasks like photoshop. I also put together 16gb of ram meaning you wont be short of memory ever and a 2tb hard drive is ideal, though if you do get something like this. Make sure you get the people putting your computer together to seperate the OS into Paritions aka seperate drives e.g. 300GB parition for windows and programs and then rest for storage or what ever you want , it just makes the computer run much more smoothly in the future espically when you start loaing all your programs and files
Also the case i choose is probably one of the most user freindly cases and has a lot of great features on it, such as being able to plug in a hard drive directly like you would with usb without needing to open the computer case and connecting it to the motherboard.
Also Dont cheap out on the power supply, a lot of people do that and thats a big mistake, as cheap power supplies tend to fail and when they fail they can damage componets easy.
I didnt include the windows operating system cause i wasnt sure if you got a copy but they set you back $90 for a OEM Window 7 Home Premium 64bit
Also if you want to save some cash read up a guide on how to put a computer together as its probably one of the most simplest things ever and its not really hard
Hope this helps
Exedy Hyper Single Clutch Kit (R34 Gtt Pull Type Style Clutch)
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
I have for sale a *Exedy Hyper Single Clutch kit (R34 GTT Pull type style clutch) * this clutch has been hardly used and is relatively new this car was in a R34 GTT manual coupe the reason I have no use for this clutch anymore as I didn't find the clutch to be the right one for me as I needed something more daily friendly, however is the one of the best clutches on the market if you want a proven stable clutch in your skyline, rated for 450rwph this clutch is perfect.
I paid $1500 for this clutch and i am selling at a loss of nearly half its value, there is plenty of life on this clutch roughly about 95% life left on the clutch disc, I used this for 2000ks however I have bigger plans and need a more higher rated HP clutch.
Give me a call or text any time for any more questions or details you want about the clutch
I Offer shipping Australia wide
My number is 0430-275-261
I am located in Perth Northern Suburbs