Marcus89
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Posts posted by Marcus89
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bump price drop 600ono
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Gmax rims 18x9.5+35 works out to be almost exactly GTR offset so perfect for GTST/GTT's. 1 pair with 90% tread tyres other pair with legal tyres but not heaps of tread. Also have a pair of spare tyres with heaps of tread but only good for skids due to camber wear.
South Brisbane QLD for pickup not keen to post really.
0423 424 834 best of texting me I work and study fulltime and when I'm at work cannot answer calls and when I'm at uni I won't answer calls.
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Also have stock series 2 r34 front bar in pretty good nick $100
Series 2 r34 reo support bar $100 -
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Have stock:
Radiator $30
AFM $50
Injectors $70
Aftermarket
Solid rear diff mounts fit r33/34 (just the front ones not subframe) $20
Located brisbane QLD
0423 424 834 -
Sorry don't understand that answer. Bought a Tomei Type L hopefully it's sufficient but still interested in a simpler version of you answer if possible
If your fuel pressure spikes too high you need a larger regulator, it is not dependent on the power your making.
Kind of like the size of a wastegate on a turbo. The more boost your running the smaller the wastegate can be as it is bypassing less air from the turbo to maintain that boost pressure.
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Alrighty so my guess seemed to be right for the Throttle motor sensor need to make sure the signal from the sensor is below 4.8v for the adjustment on it. I set to 4.75v and it got rid of it not too sure if lower would be better but that's how it is.
Now I have a constant idle of 2000rpm that will be sorting out but all my error codes are gone. -
Hey guys been having a bit of a headache with error codes 17 (ABS/TCS) and more recently error 46 Throttle motor sensor. The throttle motor sensor issue I feel was my own doing I had the bright idea of taking it off without thinking about leaving marks as to how it was sitting there.
I am using a multimeter to measure the sensor output which when tested I get 5.14v that drops steadily the further the sensor is turned. I am guessing that with this sensor the setting just needs to be below 4.8v (this is when the workshop manual states a CEL code will be thrown) for the initial setting kind of opposite to the TPS which needs to be set at 0.45v and jumps up to around 4.2v with throttle in.
Does anyone know specific volatges should aim for or is it not so important for this part? -
this makes me think you spent waaaay too much on a 31. Either way it's going to be a monster
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Possibly although I'm not sure if the diff will fit a GTR if that's what your planning to put it in
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2001 series 2 R34 GTT 5sp Manual $13000 obo
GTR pearl white colour
ONLY $10000 without Rego/RWC on stock rims and I swap stereo to standard
250rwkw and very track capable
Located Holland Park
Rego till November
Timing belt, ancillary belts, bearings and water pump done 20000kms ago
Engine
Bosch 023 fuel pump (installed properly with constant 12v from battery)
Nistune
Z32 AFM
Splitfire coilpacks
Hypergear G2.5 turbo 10000kms old
550cc Bosch Injectors 10000kms old
3inch turbo back exhaust
ARC return flow intercooler
Oil cooler with thermostat
GTR BOV
Manual Boost Controller
52mm Allow Radiator
Suspension/drivetrain
BC Br coilovers 20000 kms old
Cusco 1.5 way LSD with solid mounts 10000kms old
Whiteline H/D swaybars front and rear
Subframe lock collars
Nismo gearbox mount
Extra lock steering spacers
Polyurethane steering rack bushes
Adjustable Front Camber Arms 15000kms old
Adjustable Castor rods 15000kms old
Adjustable rear camber arms 15000kms old
Adjustable rear traction arms 15000kms old
Adjustable rear toe arms 15000kms old
Hicas Lock bar
Stereo/alarm
Autowatch alarm + immobilizer
Pioneer head deck
Rainbow splits front
Rainbow coaxial rears
4 Channel alpine amp
Clear front bar indicators
Spare series 2 front bumper
Rims
4 Stock series 2 R34 rims
4 Gmax 18x9.5 +35 1 pair shagged tyres 1 pair 90% tread (have pair of camber worn ATR's with plenty of meat for drifting but not road legal)
4 genuine work rims 2x 17x9.5+27 Front 2x 17x10 +32 rear
Bad Parts
Marks on rear left of bumper and right side from tyre walls at archy.
Dent in bonnet.
Sits 4wd spec as exhaust needs to be tucked to have lower to be legal
Have a few options for sale
Everything above+RWC and rego for $13k
I can swap stereo for stock system and take off $400
Willing to do deals/cheaper with me keeping rims/bits
Video of car at track:
http://instagram.com/p/gWqAl8vN6d/?modal=true -
Most likely worn out coilpacks then
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Will need plug adapters but shouldn't need height adapters if you get the right ones
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Been a while but I believe the neo uses 3/4 length injectors so 48mm rather than normal 60mm
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Cheers for the tips guys. I was thinking of BOV reversion being a potential issue rondofj I guess the easiest way to suss that out would be on a dyno although seems a bit strange it only really does it when I am sliding. I have put the BOV return pretty far down the intake pipe but it doesn't point that much towards turbo which isn't good.
I don't think it is fuel surge as I feel it would be even worst when transitioning back the other way and not just grabbing a higher gear while maintaining the same slide which doesn't really slosh the fuel around much.
I've started to think it may actually be a small intake leak that opens up more on boost causing the car to run real rich on boost (Will be doing a intake pressure test soon as it's easy and free) -
My r34 rb25det neo has decided to develop a strange issue where I will be drifting and when I shift gears from 2nd to 3rd mid drift it will stall out just for a second causing it to bog down. Initially it happened rarely at the start of the night but got progressively worst as the night went on. It got the to point where clutch kicking it in 3rd (after having shifted 2nd to 3rd and had the stall out) would cause the same issue to happen again rather than for the car to start hooking up like it had done earlier in the night. I went to pits to try and find any potential air leaks or something along those lines but could not find anything and the car idles perfectly beautifully does not hunt. After being in pit for about 10 mins took it out for a run and it seemed to have no issue at all. Went for another go and the issue was back again.
Whenever I drove normally ringing out 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear there was no noticeable issue it only presented when I was drifting.
Engine mods are as follows:
Nistune
3inch turbo back exhaust
Hypergear g2.5
Bosch 550cc injectors
Oil cooler
FMIC
52mm Alum rad
Bosch 023 fuel pump
Still running recirculating BOV
I feel a likely culprit could be the fuel pump being on its way out. Does anyone think a fuel pump that's starting to run out of steam would present with these kind of issues?
Another option I was thinking was that my recirculating BOV could be leaking air out as some of the piping is a bit average and this could be a big enough difference for it to confuse the ECU as it doesn't see the air that it expected to be there.
I really wish the issue was something more obvious/severe as it seems so vague I don't really know where to start and unfortunately don't have the money to just start changing everything (crap job and going back to uni). In the end it is my daily and still drives perfect for daily duties at least at current. -
They are just a Bosch injector, exactly the same as Xspurts, and generic Bosch injectors off egay. You don't see people saying "wow, Bosch make some excellent injectors, they only say ID's are the best..."
I don't really get it.
Haha I agree when I worked this out a good year or 2 ago and got some nice cheap bosch injectors off egay was cheering. Work really well too
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Are these silicone intake pipes any better than stock? or will they still suck shut on a highflow @ 200rwkw
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261146335739?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
At 200rwkw I doubt the standard one would suck shut. That silicone one wouldn't be much better than standard I bet. Possibly a bit better but if you want to run higher boost I'd like the piece of mind of a solid intake
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Don't normal nuts and bolts places have anything? Is where I got my replacement turbo dump studs and only cost like $1/2 each
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Have you bought the car recently or owned for a long time and it's only just started doing this?
I have a similar problem that is caused by my lack of a 1 way valve on my fuel pump. When cold for some reason it is happy to prime and start up straight away but if I drive somewhere turn car off and go to turn it back on in 30+ mins I need to crank the engine like a normal start, stop and then crank again then it will start nicely. I feel for me it is due to a form of vapor with most of the fuel in my lines draining back to tank and the fuel that is left warming up and becoming a gas as I have had no other issues. -
Ok what I meant was if I flatten it at 60 I make boost, it is a small turbo, makes full boost by 3500 of ~18psi
So then my quote was accurate....
18x9.5+35 Rims Set Of 4 $700ono
in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
Posted
Will take $500 if gone this week