R32GTS4NZ

I wouldn't imagine there is a difference, are you worried in terms of brake lines?

What about getting an r32 gts4 auto strengthened?

$$Another possibility is it is just the factory turbo and running out off puff higher up? has it always been like this or just started?

When U swapped mine I undid the banjo in middle and front hose in front and bent it very slightly out of way as It would not move at all. Not ideal but has worked fine, no leaks on reinstall etc

I once blew off a vacuum nipple I had put in intercooler piping, there was a high pitch sound and loss of power so possibly check for a hole in intercooler/piping?

Is it the exhaust manifold to turbo or the turbo to downpipe? either one is relatively simple and 800 is definately a rip off! You would only really need a socket set and turbo bolts are not too bad. Drop exhaust pull of intercooler and intake pipes undo heat shields and unbolt turbo, don't think you will even need to remove banjo lines should be able to slide turbo off and on if its that one. A while ago when I didn't bother doing my own work i had the manifold to turbo gasket fail, i had the problem found and fixed as well as having my cambelt changed for $550

Rebuild was about $1200 each with the new cores machining etc. Initially I got priced $1610 each for the gt2860s but now someone is pricing up for me tomorrow morning and said they can do cost price I understand and would prefer to go straight for the ball bearings however there are some other people influenicing my decision and watching my wallet sadly Prices are NZD so are a little more expensive but hopefully turns out well. What ones would you reccomend for street? I love the feel of the kick when boost comes on, will these provide a nice feeling when I put my foot down?

Ok thanks for that, I have been thinking it may be just worth getting stock turbos until funds allow further OR I have just been offered the garrett ball bearing ones at cost price from a different source. He suggested 7s or 9s and so if the cost is right i may go for them as they will be similar price to the rebuild and ball bearing! I understand there isn't a huge difference between the two so will do some more research into them. Any pointers will be appreciated Currently stock ecu but definately looking at uopgrading

I understand this, however according to the turbo builder he tells me with .48 housings I should see full boost around 4000rpm and that he knows of a car making 500hp with these style turbos. What I would like to know is this realistic, will having the .48 rears reach full boost at 4000rpm and be good for 300kw From what I have read it seems that no matter what the n1s are laggy however with the smaller housings will they turn out ok?

Hey there, the motor has been rebuilt in Japan however am unsure of exact rebuild specs. Power goal at this stage is around 300rw/awkw at this stage I just need turbos to return car to road The turbo person I am dealing with said using these newer cores (t25 or something) they are very similar to the gt28 series but are also rebuildable I have looked into the ball bearing turbos pricewise it is two thirds the cost of these for the t25 setup and at the moment my budget is really stretched and won't allow the ball bearings

You need the gearbox, clutch setup and brake pedal clutch cylinders, ecu, manual loom, flywheel bolts etc manual sandwich plate manual bush and so on. Theres quite alot involved. I am unsure if the driveshafts are the same. Definately easier keeping 4wd as you'd have to remove/block the attessa. A waste not to keep it. Either way even if you get parts second hand and do the work yourself your looking at at LEAST 1200 likely more however Gearbox $500 Clutch flywheel etc $350 Clutch and brake pedal $100 Cylinders $150 And that's not everything plus very conservative prices for most.

Bottom hoses look very similar so I would imagine they would fit, put my gtst one next to gtr one as engine is out

From memory they are a bit different as the top hose goes to different places can't remember with bottom hose, i'll go have a look and report back

I was looking at having my R32 Nismo turbos rebuilt as i was having boost issues and have come across a hurdle. One of the shafts was damaged and turbo specialist only discovered it when he was balancing. What he has suggested as these need replacing is to go for a gt25 setup using my existing .60 compressor housing and either the .64 exhaust or a .48 exhaust housing of a standard gtr turbo. The benefits of this is it will be the same price as rebuilding the nismo turbos but instead of the 270 thrust bearing I will have a 360 thrust bearing. What would you recommend in terms of the exhaust housing? I was making 261rwkw on 12.2 pounds with the nismo turbos. what would I expect with the different housings, Response vs top end will the .48s struggle up higher revs or should they be fine for a relatively standard engine. Cheers

My 4wd light started to flash on my r32 when it ran different circumfrence tyres front and rear, maybe this has something to do with it?

I would suggest checking your coils also, it is very likely water has gotten in there or degreaser and it may possibly messing with the spark

I had this problem with my r32 gts4. Always did it after so long driving and at over 80km/h. could be rather unerving. I just removed the hicas solenoids and installed a lock bar, looped the fluid through the power steering cooler. Much better than having it fixed. Rear end much more stable

Have you got the same size tyres and rims front and rear? Having different rolling circumfrances will cause this problem as the computer reads the front wheel travelling faster than the rears or vice versa

thanks mrstabby and gfunk I'm leaning towards the r34 dump pipe but would like to know if anyone elsee has experience with using them also? and are they a straight bolt up with only modification being for O2 sensor. Cheers

Ok thanks for that. i'll probably look at getting the r34 ones then as i have found some relatively cheap. So other than the mount for the oxygen sensor there anre no other modifications? Are they the same shape as the earlier ones and will bolt up to my existing exhaust? Anybody else have an opinion also? I'd like as many as i can before I actually buy so I know I am doing this right (not that i don't trust MrStabby:s advice ) cheers

Well i have a r32 gtr engine which was having boost issues, so I pulled the turbos off and there are cracks in the wastegate housing. While they are off I have come across r34 dump pipes for sale and after reading a few other posts some seem to say they are better than r32 ones. Are these worthwhile getting? How much better flowing are they than the earlier models? Also do they bolt straight up to everything else? Advice is greaty appreciated. cheers

Nothing that i know of has changed only thing may have been a leaky bov but have a brand new hks one now. engine has only been in car few thousand kms but did about 1500 trouble free until this started. Its coneccted to a vacuum nipple at the rear of the plenum on top.

Sorry didn't mention. That is what it was running, It was all tested on dyno and I could measure boost off my gauge. Only recently has it started doing this, I have not made any other adjustments. My boost controller has been locked (HKS evc4) and i can now only run wastegate, low or high boost (7.5,10 and 12.2psi respectively) however now am only getting just over 5 about 8-9 and just over 10psi

haven't eliminated this option yet but it would seem odd the boost gauge would suddenly fail. Car definately feels slower

Apologies. At wastegate pressure it is meant to be making 7.5psi, with the boost controller low boost is meant to be making 10psi and high is about 12.2psi but is instead now making just over 5psi , about 8 and about 10psi on each respectively I have cleaned the air flow meters using electrical contact cleaner. But not the air filters Could this be the cause of not building enough boost?