LexDelta

Seems like I cant edit the original post, which is a bit of a pain. Either way, heres a couple more pictures. Feel free to email me or phone me about the car. Ask questions - make an offer! Im open to negotiation.

As the title states, I'm selling my 1994 R33 Gtst RB25. Looking for $8,250 which is much less than the average for a car of this sort and year (I'll get to some reasons why, after details) Details: Transmission – 5 Speed Manual Body – 4 Door 4 Seat Sedan Kilometres – 147,800 Colour – Gunmetal Grey Interior Color – Grey Drive type – Rear Reg expiry –4th October 2011 Engine – 6 Cylinder Petrol Intercooled Turbo 2.5L (2498cc) ECU - Microtech LT-12 (original also included in sale) - Slotted and drilled rotors front and rear with new pads. - Genuine Greddy front mount intercooler kit - GTR fuel pump - Splitfire ignition coil packs - Tein fully adjustable coilovers - 3in exhuast from turbo back (new muffler as of Feb 2011) - Turbo rebuilt and high-flowed - 400r bodykit (only the front) and nismo side skirts - JVC mp3 cd player and speakers - K&N pod filter with silicon inlet pipe -18'' Zepter 3piece mesh wheels with nice staggered dish - Rear tyres (BRAND NEW) 265x35x18 and 245x45x18 front More Pictures: The good: Overall the car's body is in good condition, some scuffing of the paint on the outside (mainly just on the spoiler and parts of the body kit) and minor scratches but nothing noticable, no rust, the car itself looks very neat and tidy inside and out (as you can see from the pictures), a minor cigarette burn can be seen on the drivers side seat and floor from a previous owner (I dont smoke and there is none of that noticeable 'smoker smell' in the car at all). Last owner replaced the clutch, pressure plate, clutch master, thrust bearing, slave cylinders and main bearing. Ive recently had the car tuned + ECU dyno tuning and a new exhaust fitten in Feb of this year. Very recently had brand new rear tyres put on (theyve done less than 500km so far) Im also throwing in all the original parts I have, the original ECU, a 2nd front bumper, original floor mats and steering wheel and the stock muffler. The bad: The car can have issue idling when its cold or during cold weather, seems to be a common skyline issue but I havent gotten around to dealing with it. Runs fine once its had a chance to warm up or if the weather is warm enough in general. The second issue is the main reason why Im selling, the 2nd gear syncros need to be replaced, and I havent the time or money to do that at the moment. The car is still drivable and all the other gears are fine, but its definitely not ideal. This is the main reason why Im selling and Ive chopped a couple of K off the selling price to compensate, if your more mechanically skilled than me it shouldnt be a huge issue to deal with. Im looking to sell to someone who has the time and money to look after this car because I unfortunately dont anymore Currently running 2 cars + being a Uni student and Im not working all that much + moving to town in the very near future, so its getting too much to run both this car and my other one. I live in the Adelaide hills, near Mt Barker, so thats the best place to meet if you want to check out the car. From the 25th of July onwards Im back at uni, so meeting times will be difficult, but I'll do my best to work something out since Id really like a quick sale. Anyone interested (serious buyers only please) contact me via PM on this forum, email or phone my mobile listed below. Also feel free to post in this thread with any further questions etc. Mobile: 04-07092930 (phone anytime, if I dont answer please leave a message and Ill get back to you asap.) Email: [email protected] Cheers, Alex

For those still following, Ive found a couple of guides around the place, heres a good one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/345630-r32-gtr-aac-valve-refurbishment/ There was another really good one as well, but so old the pictures were no longer available. Ill be giving this a go when I can find some spare time (If ever)

Hey, still working on the issue, I'll keep posting until I find the solution. Btw do you have a Microtech ECU? Some people have been saying that could be incorrectly configured.

Hmm, haddnt thought of that. Cheers guys, I'll give it a go and get back to you with the results. *crosses fingers*

Ive been having this problem since I bought my R33, and Id really like to get this sorted out because its very frustrating as you could imagine! Ive seen a few threads around about this but none have resulted in a solution, just a million suggestions. Anyway my specific problem is as follows: When cold the car tends to start roughly, I always push the gas a little for a few seconds because it instantly threatens to stall, but after a few seconds it will settle and I can comfortably get out the car and walk around to let it idle etc to warm up a little. It generally idles in neutral (its manual) at around 1000rpm which is fine. It does seem to fluctuate a bit sometimes though, like it threatens to stall but then the revs randomly come back up again for a while (autochoke?), but its never stalled whilst sitting there. Once I start driving its a different story, as soon as I get to an intersection/bottom of driveway/traffic lights etc, and put my foot down on the clutch the rpm gets dangerously low, down to around 200rpm before stalling altogether. This seems to be more aggressive when its a cold day, especially in winter, but it still does it even in summer. On cold nights if I dont change gear quick enough when im driving it will stall also (like when changing down to 3rd for a sharp corner, Ill notice the rpm instantly goes dangerously low and will stall if I dont get the revs up quick enough. This is a pain and is also dangerous because no one wants to loose the engine, power assisted breaks and powersteering while driving..... It usually takes about 15-30mins of driving on a warm day for the engine to stop doing this, which then allows me to pull up at intersections without it stalling (yay no embarrassment!), but still reving very low (now at about 300-400rpm) and this is how the car will be for the rest of the drive. (And it does drive perfectally fine aside from this issue) Now it is modded in several ways, aftermarket ECU, intercooler, boost timer and so on, so I really have no idea whats causing it. Im going to get rid of the boost timer (illegal in my state anyway) to see if it helps, and some people have said it could be that the air filter needs to be replaced, or the BOV is to blame (which as far as I know is stock), or it could be an issue with the autochoke. I guess I should start looking into these things, but if anyone has solved this issue Id REALLY love to hear it.

Ive played it quite a bit also, love just sitting back and spending days/weeks/months slowly building up a city properly. Its a really challenging game in many ways. I used to play the oldest version way back in primary school, but I never really got it back then, I just enjoyed the disasters and landscape mode.

Haha yeh takes a bit of practice, if you have a background in photoshop then its much easyier to get the hang of. Just do a search on google for basic gimp tutorials. My email is [email protected] Do you want me to post the high res edited image here or email it back?

Ok, here it is, I cut it to a few different heights, the top one is the original, the bottom is the most extreme lowering possible. A higher res picture would have been preferable, so if you have one then Ill do it for the higher res pic as well. And btw I use Gimp, a free program which is similar to photoshop and does everything it can do.

Yes thats exactly right, the flange's match up, even tho the pipes are different diameter. Im glad its not something that will cause any major problems, but I will keep the deathly quiet 2" on for a bit while I work on getting to the 3". Thanks for all the feedback, if anyone else has concerns it would be good to hear!

Ok well Ive put the 2" muffler on and its running ok, and for some reason a bit smoother, its certainly not stalling when pulling up to intersections when the engines cold like it was before. At least it seems that way for now. The only issue is the sound, its considerably quieter, which is good I guess cause the cops wont nag me as much, but I wouldnt mind it being a bit louder/deeper... Im just wondering if this 2" muffler setup could be a issue for the engine, which could be tuned for a 3" system? Im not sure.. This is how it was before, just a simple, defectable, pipe: Now with the 2" muffler: (I believe this is the stock muffler?) And this is a future 3" inlet muffler with 4" cannon on the back, Im hoping to put it on to get a more desired sound, but needs a flange welded onto it which was cut off for the pipe in the first pic before I can attach it.

Currently I dont even have an muffler on my 3" system, but I do have the original 2" 'double exhaust' muffler. Would it be a good idea to put the 2" muffler on the 3" system, the flang's match up and everything, im just worried about the exhaust flow being restricted, plus the exhaust is a double barrel so there would be a bit of added turblance in the muffler. Just looking for some advice. I can post pictures if it helps.

Thats not too bad I guess + manhours of course. The clutch is rather heavy, pressing it all the way down the the floor engages it better and there is a bit less grind, but its still pretty bad. Im hopefully getting mine done next week also, depending on what actually is wrong. Ill post the results here (and amount of excessive money ill probubly have to pay to fix this)

Whats the boot and spoiler like? Standard? Pics? -Cheers

Wondering if the following 4 items are still available? 400R fibre front bar (GTR indicators) Gearbox Side mirrors Spoiler/Boot Cheers