Henros

Hi, What code did it flash when you did the HICAS diagnostic? Do a search and you will find the meaning of the code. I don't think there are wheel sensors for the front wheels. In any case, I was talking about the STEERING ANGLE SENSOR in this thread, which is mounted behind the STEERING WHEEL, not the wheel sensors mounted at the wheels. My HICAS diagnositic flashed code 23 - steering angle sensor neural or not present. Cheers.

Are you having problem with your steering angle sensor also?

A turbo timer is only WORTH 35 bucks. If you open up a commercial unit, you'd be surpised how small the component count is and how simple the circuit is. Why use a double-sided or a multiple layered board when a single-sided one will suffice? The kits mentioned do not use sensitive high-frequency circuits and as such there is no need for ground planes. Remember the art of designing is to do it in the simplest possible way, for the simplest things in life are the best, and easier to troubleshoot too, should the need arise. So why DIY when you can buy a ready-made product? Because the process of DIY is enormously rewarding, addictive and you can learn so much from it. The journey is just as important as the destination. Sydneykid, good luck and have fun building the kits. We certainly look forward to hearing the results from you.

If you did a search, you would've found this recent thread with pics posted: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1090289

Yeah, Optimax is crap anyway, too much sulphur content. Ultimate and Synergy rule!

Here is a pic for the boost gauge connection.

It's not the rheostat, because he said he's got instrument lights. Have you checked the globes?

Ok Dudes, I just managed to fix the bastard! I took off the steering wheel and the steering angle sensor. I then took apart the sensor and had a look inside, found a small circuit board with not many components. The whole shebang is not unlike the ball computer mouse - it uses photointerrupters and a black wheel with slots to sense the position of the steering wheel. I took some measurements and found a shorted diode, replaced it and it's as good as new. No more HICAS lights, yay!

Hi Guys, Does anyone know where I can get a steering angle sensor (culprit of my newly developed HICAS problem) for my series 1 R33 and how much it would cost? Thanks.

Looks like you need to regas your a/c. Make sure you have a dye added when you regas so that if there's any leak, they can be easily detected.

So is the Japanese year (eg H15) used more often in Japan than the western year (eg 2003)?

Rezz, So I guess the period refers to the reigning emperor, right? I studied Japanese for 4 years back in high school, which is why I understood most of it, but they never taught us anything about the Japanese calendar!

OK. I wasn't sure about the "H" part. I thought the 7.1 meant 97/1... I guess H5.8 ~ H6.12 would be Aug 93 ~ Dec 94 then, right Rezz? By the way, what is the significance of the "H"?

Only necessary for cars made after January 97 Genuine Nissan accelerator wire bracket (For Aug 95 ~ Dec 96 model ECR33) Hope this helps.

Hippy, all white LEDs have a blueish tinge because they are essentially blue LEDs with an internal phosporous coating. The amount of blue various from manufacturer to manufacturer. You can get blue LEDs with different shades of blue. Jaycar for example, sell 470 nm blue and 505 nm blue/green LEDs. Steve, the extra diode is there to provide reverse polarity and trasient high voltage protection, the IN4004 has a reverse breakdown voltage of 400V. LEDs have much lower reverse breakdown voltage. In reality tho, you could do without it, but you need to increase the value of the resistor as the diode helps to drop around 0.7V which now has to be shed by the resistor. Merli, construction was half the fun, for me anyway.