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LTSJayce

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Posts posted by LTSJayce

  1. G’day all. I’m after a Stagea, and I’ve found something at a dealer with suspiciously low kilometres(approx 99,0000 for a 2005....). Is there a way of finding an imported vehicles history from the import compliance plate? Or the original Japanese VIN? My gut feeling is, without physically seeing the car, is that the speedo has been changed out. Also, I’d love to know what the car began it’s life as...so I can see if it’s been changed much... Any help appreciated. 
     

    https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/minchinbury/cars-vans-utes/2005-nissan-stagea-pnm35-350rx-four-white-automatic-wagon/1245330737

  2. On 25/05/2020 at 11:53 AM, KiwiRS4T said:

    Are you planning to keep it stock? If so I would look for a VQ35 model which has the same power output as the VQ25DET but without the turbo to worry about or the 25's propensity to wear out the timing chain around 200,000km.

    Yep, stock is well preferred. I’d LOVE. 260RS, but we all know what happens there, LOL!

  3. 8 hours ago, West said:

    Rust, everywhere, including inside A-pillar. 

    Turbo making dyson noise, Attessa light, noisy vct solenoid. 

    Sluggish gear changes

    Apart from that, ARX suppose to sit a bit higher than NM35, comes with bodykit (flare), standard rear viscous lsd.

     

    Thanks; this fits in with what I was thinking so far!

  4. I’m an R32 GTR guy, but I’m looking for a runaround and found a 2002 AR-X Four NM35. It’s an auto, and appears unmolested(which is perfectly fine by me). 110,000km on the clock... whether that’s verifiable or not remains to be seen. What issues do these cars usually present? Anything in particular to look for? If it was an 260 RS Autech I’d be way more familiar with the underpinings.... I’m not at all across this AWD AR-X!

    Come at me with info!

  5. 15 hours ago, jmknights93 said:

    I've got 2 spare genuine boot carpets sitting in storage, otherwise if you want something "new" hit up JL Designs.

    https://jldesignfab.com/collections/floor-mats/products/r32-truefit-boot-mat

    EDIT: Genuine part numbers, both out of production.

    Carpet: 84902-04U10
    Back trim: 84910-04U00

    Yep, knew they were gone officially. PM me what you think is a fair $ figure and we’ll discuss. I know JL’s work; that may be my other route just yet. 

  6. I thought I’d posted up chasing these parts before, but apparently not, looking at my history...


    I’m trying to get two boot trims for an R32 GTR, the floor ‘carpet’ base piece and the trim that fits over the opening to the back seats. 
    I believe the genuine part numbers are 84902M – Carpet, trunk floor
    84900, finisher assy, if that helps...
    Do you think you may be able to help?
    New or VGC preferred. 
    I’m based in Canberra. 
    Cheers, Jayson. 

    50C6624B-9553-4969-BDDC-8E090C151563.jpeg

  7. G’day ACT SAU’ers. 
    Does anyone have a go-to contact at a local Nissan dealership that will actually do their job and find/quote/order parts? I’ve found Lennock used to have a good guy who cared but has left, and the current lot seem quite muppet-like. Local help? Or, barring that, a contact at a dealership outside of the ACT who knows their stuff and can actually do their job?

  8. I’ve just discovered that my passenger R32 GTR seat won’t recline, or come up, as the twist knob seems solidly stuck. I’ve tried to move it once I’ve ‘unlocked’ the seat from its position (as if I’m allowing someone in the rear seats), and tried to turn it then, but no luck. Any thoughts?? I know it used to work perfectly. 

  9. G’day.

    I’d like to save my dash, plus reduce the usual glare issue, in the GTR with a dash mat. Who has a good lead on a quality dash mat to suit the BNR32? I want a quality fit and finish, and I’m looking for suggestions beyond ‘Supercheap Auto should have something...’

    Thoughts?

  10. Fitting F50 to the front is straightforward and has been done many times. They just need the correct adapter to space them properly to whatever disc you choose.
    With the rear, that is a lot tricker.  Firstly, no real need to upgrade the rear brakes, they are pretty adequate from factory for pretty much any use. Secondly you need to work out a handbrake setup; the factory rear brakes apply the handbrake to a drum inside the rear disc, so using a front brake setup there will be missing all that. Thirdly, with the pretty large front brakes on the rear you will have big rear bias problems, and need a different master cylinder.  And you need to machine the rear hub to locate the front caliper correctly. All way too much trouble for something that doesn't need changing in the first place....

    I knew you’d be across this, mate! [emoji108]
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